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for anyone that has crankcase pressure issues

 
Old Nov 15, 2010, 09:12 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
when i think about scavenging the crankcase with a non-drysump system, this is the only thing that comes to mind.

I have seen these used for decades on dragsters & such.....however i have not seen them in use on a turbo car.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/V...uation-Systems
I run the header evac setups on all the chevy builds that I've done over the years. We put one on a turbo'd mustang once in place of a catch can setup and it would go through oil rather quickly, guess it sucked too well. Just one example for what it's worth.
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Old Nov 15, 2010, 09:18 AM
  #47  
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well to add another 0.02 with my crankcase pressure, i intermittenly have a dipstick pop up and when i mean pop maybe a couple inches out of the tube. now with my cusco, ive been running my mods for 14k miles on my built engine, and almost 10k prior on stock engine with my cusco oil catch can, now on my can i have a hose next to it, that basically monitors how much oil vapors is currently in the can kinda like a full marker...to this day 3 years later still cant even see it registering on the full marker.. so imo try a cusco granted its a couple hundred for it, but if it helps alleviate some headaches your havin, then there ya go. hahah
good luck
dastallion out
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Old Nov 15, 2010, 09:39 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by tscompusa View Post
What I dont get is how is a closed can going to relieve pressure from the engine if its closed up and not released to atmosphere? seems like its going to do nothing.. i want the air to escape from the engine not recirculate and maintain the pressure.
Pre-turbo has a vacuum under boost. The vacuum pulls the gas through the catch can from the crankcase into the intake pipe which then gets burned. Just like how its set up from the factory only adding a catch can in between. Most evo guys cant seem to grasp the concept, but the DSM guys figured it out a while ago. Probably cause the DSMs are all older and have more blow-by problems...but eventually evo guys will get there. :P
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Old Nov 15, 2010, 11:15 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Fathouse View Post
You can kinda see what I have here, best pic I could find without looking to hard.



I drilled and tapped the fittings, there are baffels on the valve cover, keep the fittings above the baffles and I don't see why you will have a problem. I ran alot of boost and alot of rpm, and didn't overly fill the can.

Fathouse
What size AN fittings did you install on the valvecover?
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Old Nov 15, 2010, 11:26 AM
  #50  
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here is what I ended up doing, I copied and pasted in here for you to look at

the thread is located here is you choose to see more

"Good morning everyone,

A little while ago, I had some ideas about positive crank case ventilation, in which I wanted to relieve as much pressure as possible, but still retain the PCV system for daily driving benefits.
I had intially come up with the following sketch
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Now it was time to put it all together.
A while ago I had rex powdercoat a valve cover for me, as I was tired of the red stock cover. I also drilled out the sides of the cover, so that I would be able to place -10 AN lines to it. These relief holes are above the baffle plate that is in the stock evolution V.C
here is what the cover looks like
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a picture with the 1/2"NPT to -10AN fittings installed.
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Realestate under the hood of my car is very limited. The catch can that I have is rather large, so I definitely had to get creative with a location for placement. I decided that I would place it infront of the transmission an under the intake pipe. I ended up using an old saw zaw BLADE, bending it up and creating a bracket to hold the catch can
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here is what it looks like under the intake (you can barely see it )
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Oh I almost forgot, I made this intake completely out of straight pieces of 4" stainless pipe. However the guy that tigged it up, did a terrible job, where I had to spend about 4 hours, grinding everything inside the pipe down, because of all the slag that was present. Rex, then finished her off with some black chrome powder coat. I think it looks really nice now, you can't even tell that it was pipe cut
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Moving along, I began to take off the old cover, transferring gaskets,pcv valve, and the little washers that go under the V.C bolts
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if you look in this picture you can see the air oil separater which is by the oil dipstick in the left side of the picture below


I added my -10 AN Prolite hose, to the 45 degree -10 an fittings, definitely gives it a nice contrast
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installing the cover
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here is a picture of the can without the filter and with the hoses attached
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and finally with everything together
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here is the finished product, sorry but the GF was taking way too many pictures, so I am posting them all up
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and finally with the hood closed
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Hope you enjoyed my sunday afternoon work.

have a great week everyone
later
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Old Nov 15, 2010, 12:40 PM
  #51  
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Do i see 2 bov's?
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Old Nov 15, 2010, 12:43 PM
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ya hes got 2 bov's. i was gonna do exactly what he did with the valve cover but JID told me not to do it because it will dump to much oil into the can..... now i am interested in knowing how much oil you see in your breather tank antilag?
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Old Nov 15, 2010, 01:22 PM
  #53  
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Tscompusa ........ feel free to call me warren

In the oil separator the one that is between the PCV valve and intake manifold I see maybe 2 table spoons of oil, In the main catch can that has the two -10 an lines going to it, I see a minimal amount of oil/water condensation. When I say minimal, a few drops here and there, The car is driven approximately 80 miles daily, with a few mash it to floor escapades.

I hope that helps and feel free to ask any questions, and I will do my best to help.

Edit : IT WILL dump oil if you drill the holes, below the baffle of the valve cover, IN my case, the two 1/2 inch NPT holes are above the baffle of the valve cover.
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Old Nov 15, 2010, 02:28 PM
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Ya mine is above the baffles also. I have no problems, I do not road race my car though, just quick burst to 150

Creamo3, I use 1/2ntp to -10

Fathouse
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Old Nov 15, 2010, 03:25 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by antilag_200 View Post
Tscompusa ........ feel free to call me warren

In the oil separator the one that is between the PCV valve and intake manifold I see maybe 2 table spoons of oil, In the main catch can that has the two -10 an lines going to it, I see a minimal amount of oil/water condensation. When I say minimal, a few drops here and there, The car is driven approximately 80 miles daily, with a few mash it to floor escapades.

I hope that helps and feel free to ask any questions, and I will do my best to help.

Edit : IT WILL dump oil if you drill the holes, below the baffle of the valve cover, IN my case, the two 1/2 inch NPT holes are above the baffle of the valve cover.

Warren,
Where did you get your catchcan from? Baffled?
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Old Nov 15, 2010, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by tscompusa View Post
ya hes got 2 bov's. i was gonna do exactly what he did with the valve cover but JID told me not to do it because it will dump to much oil into the can..... now i am interested in knowing how much oil you see in your breather tank antilag?
If your going to drill, then just go a head and fab a baffle for the extra port. The oem ports are protected by a baffle so oil spraying around doesnt reach them as easily, just the vapors.

Also one thing to keep in mind. If you are running 2-3 or more valve cover ports to a catch can that has only 1 X" or example 3/8" exit breather, then your setup defeats the purpose. Make sure you put a breather or multiple breathers to allow proper ventilation according to number of vacuum tubes and their size.

And I also noticed on some of the setups people are still recirculating back into the intake manifold. The valve cover does not need to have a vacuum source attached, its just their for emissions purpose. But if your running a catless exhaust, whats the point?
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Old Nov 15, 2010, 06:49 PM
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Here is a setup my engine builder suggested. This involves running two cans.

One can will be vented and come from the side cover port. The second will run from the back port into a second can and run in some where on the bottom. Keep the PCV on. Then run a line from the top of the can to the turbo intake. Inside the second can put some steel mesh inside.

This will allow you to vent pressure as well as keep oil and whatever **** is in it from circulating through the system. And you shouldn't have problems with oil all over the engine bay.
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Old Nov 15, 2010, 07:40 PM
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http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...cv-system.html is a good read






these 2 seem to be the best route for my setup. i think the max pressure relief and then just place a krank vent/ check valve such as http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...6844&catid=489

or similar in between the pcv hose.

on a metered air setup for maf its recommended to dump them back into the air intake pipe rather then dump to atmosphere, plus it will get vacuum from the intake pipe, but i dont think it really matters if its blown to atmosphere. personally i like the atmosphere idea better, but it seems the extra vac produced from the turbo does assist in removal of gases from the crank cover.. so im debating what to do right now.

Last edited by tscompusa2; Nov 15, 2010 at 07:43 PM.
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Old Nov 15, 2010, 07:55 PM
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^^^holy crap thats a long read...good read though...
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Old Nov 15, 2010, 08:10 PM
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Subscribed. Good info
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