rocknsnoboarder

iTrader: (3)

I use Amsoil Signature Series 10W30

whiteEvo08Y

iTrader: (5)

Quick question I have for you guys, I recent switched to Mobile 1 10W30, I was using mobile 1 5W30, When I was using the 5W30 during summer, the temperature was reading around 170-180(roughly) from the oil filter housing.

YES I know its not a properly reading for the oil temperature since you need to get it from the oil pan. But Now since I switch to 10W30 in fall ( colder temperature OF course) the highest temperature now I am seeming is 130-140??????

Reason why I switch because I am getting higher oil pressure (Around 2-4PSI) and it quieted down the lifters.
Why such difference ?? Good or Bad do you guys think? I know that the oil need to be at a normal operating temperature to lubricated the engine.
I was think to switch to Mobile 1 0W-40 for cold weather. Any input is apprenticed guys.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Hey, im no oil expert, but running a 40 weight in the dead of an Ontario winter? The 0W seems OK for winter, but i would think a 0W/30W would be better?

whiteEvo08Y

iTrader: (5)

Hey MinusPrevious, Thanks for the input, So far its only got to -3 outside, but I see it drop down to (-15)-(-20) outside. SO you are saying drop down to 0W-30?
0W-40 wont work?

I mean I even drove the car for a good drive and it still wont got about 130 the oil temperature. so 10W-30 is too think for winter applications ? With low oil temperature could you hurt the motor? Pressure was always about 85PSI the whole time while I was driving.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Heres a good thread on BITOG that discusses extreme cold weather oil viscosity. One member noted a block heater is your best defense

Here in So. Cal, my race shop has me running 15w/50w

Check out this thread: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...&Number=781926

kaj

iTrader: (60)

You guys and your crazy built-engine tolerances :P

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, was concerned about that too when i found out. All of their customer cars (OEM blocks) get put on 15w/50

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Not surprised. I see quite a few engine builders recommend 50w oil. I haven't seen bearing clearances in built motors as tight as OEM, usually just have some ACLs or something tossed in there. The pistons/rings heat up different. Blah blah, at least they way t's explained to me. Makes sense.
If I ever find a way to do quicker engine swaps (tube the front end???), I'll consider a built engine. I'm that lazy

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Many hard hitting BITOG members agree w/the 15w/50 spec in their OEM car engines (warm climate only)

If interested: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...topics/22529/2

kaj

iTrader: (60)

I have a hard enough time getting 7qts of 40w up to operating temp as it is. In the winter time, I rarely saw my gauge move (starts at 160*), so tried blocking the oil cooler. Now I still only MIGHT see it move by the time I get somewhere. I tried 50w one time... I didn't like how high pressures were and how the engine sounded on start up. I'm just a moderate guy making moderate power on an OEM shortblock. I'm totally okay with running 40w. I may even drop to 30w for winter.
At the track, my oil temp and pressure are both super stable. I haven't found a need to run heavier oil with my setup.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Good info Jason. Forgot you were running 7qts. I surely dont need the 50wt myself but its what RRE filled me after my head / cam job. I had to take a step back & asked them "are you sure 50w is correct?"

Im tracking my oil pressure, now that i have a gauge. At start up, it is definitely 100psi at idle, but once it warms up (5 mins or so) the pressures really drop off to 30-40psi

EvoM member on BITOG questioning 50w oil: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...Number=2206204

kaj

iTrader: (60)

I have my rear balance shaft in place, Kiggly, then had the 50w and startup pressure was crazy high and it felt like the car ran kinda rough. Just may have been my imagination, though. It's very possible I only "think" it starts up and runs easier with lighter oil. If your builder clearanced the engine for 50w, you're spot on. I'd also definitely run it. I don't remember what I idled at with 50wt, but with 40w I'm right at 25psi which seems normal vs (I think) 15-20ish on 30w. The main reason I stayed OEM is so I'd have less worries for longer. Which oil to run is one of the things I get to fuggetabout

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

RL 5w30 is a good one, all of RL's oils run on the thicker side of things, so it's not far from like a 0w40. I run either that or their race oil ("30wt," and runs very thin/exactly where it should be on operating temp, but still good HTHS).

I read that 50wt thread on BITOG a while ago, and I'm pretty firmly in the 30wt camp for OEM motors. Maybe in Cali it's not as egregious to run a 50wt, but if you experience all 4 seasons you should def run something thinner. I think the main reason that was discussed in that thread (oil pump dying) is a result of oil starve - for which I've addressed with the kiggly, crank scraper, and racefab pan

kaj

iTrader: (60)

I think the addition of the kiggly hla would have saved that engine.

petecraig1

Running straight 50W but it's a fully built race motor. Let it get up to temp slowly. Might not be the best on startup though.