Those oils have been tested a whole lot. BTOG has an article, somewhere. You can probably search here and find results.
Basically, what I've read is some of those oils have mow of various ingredients, which is great IF you need it. Otherwise you are burning $$$. I say if it gives someone the warm and fuzzies, let them use it.

 

Blackstone did an article awhile back and their results were a very small variance between oils. They equated the wear to being the difference of a 2 liter of coke cola in an olympic swimming pool from a number of different synthetics.

Also I ran Amsoil Z rod and after an analysis comparing it to castrol syntec, zinc difference didnt seem mind blowing. It was 1286 in Z rod and 942 in Castrol.

Using some liqui Moly now and again, minimal if any differences.

 

Ill be sending out my sample of T6 (new formula) to Blackstone this week. Has about 2000 miles on it and 1 autocross day. Curious to see its results compared to the Castrol I had in it before. VR1 racing is going in this time around. If I see no difference in the reports, I will probably just run whatever is the cheapest.

 

I wish I could find the BITOG article I read, but it basically said something along the lines of: one oil may have a ton more zinc than another (great for flat tappet cams and turbo cars) but that's negligible if the "lesser" oil already has more than you could ever need. That's what got me thinking and how I settled on Rotella. Then there were other comparisons, of course, but that's the one that stuck in my head. I do remember all oils being pretty damned close in necessary performance. Kinda the 2 liter bottle/swimming pool scenario you mention.
I still feel if someone wants to spend the money, that's cool too. Especially if using a cheaper oil would cause some anxiety. If someone doesn't mind spending the extra cash and they get peace of mind out of it? I say go for it.
FWIW, I had my WRX tuned pretty aggressive and beat on it. I ran nothing but Rotella and even THAT engine survived

 

For future reference, Dominator should not be used in a daily/occasional driver type of vehicle. It's a racing oil not designed for any kind of "lengthy" drain interval and does not contain any of the typical detergents that "street" use oils do.

 

That's good to know. I'll probably be sticking with VR1 until I get a built block. Which might be sooner than I thought. Because the only analysis I'm gonna be doing is analyzing why my timing belt decided to remove itself from my cam gears today.

 

i did a UOA on redline's "30wt" (their equivalent race oil with less detergents etc). I think it can go 2, maybe even 3k miles easily. I did the TBN on them, and it showed a solid amount left after ~1.5k miles. The TBN, as I understand it, is more or less ultimately the function of the detergents - to keep the oil from going acidic.

 

That sucks.

Amsoil has Zrod, which has similar additives to dominator, but it also has detergents in it.

 

Straight off Amsoil's site regarding dominator-

When I do a track day, I change the oil before hand and put dominator in. After track day I change the oil again and put Signature Series back in.

 

I'm pretty sure I ran Zrod for one or two changes but ended up on VR1 simply due to price. Once money's not an issue anymore I might go back until I'm running what my builder suggests.

 

 

That's different oil. So I'm not sure what you're trying to say...?

 

I am thinking that he is trying to show that he used the Redline Racing oil for a longer interval and didn't have any abnormal ratings.

 

look at my original quote. i never talked about dominator.

yes. it's possible amsoil's is similar, i have no idea. would need to do a UOA with TBN to see.

 

Note to CA people - you no longer can get VR1 Racing shipped to you. I just tried on Ebay and Amazon and neither will ship to a CA address. Autozone, Pepboys and Napa dont carry it in stock either.... Guess I will be trying something different now.