Honestly I cant remember how much I get it for. I get it at a discount because my work has a commercial account setup with napa though and thats usually where I get it at. There are a veriety of places I can quickly pick up redline up here, GC I can only find at autozone. This also played a factor in my decision.
I have not used Mobil 1 in my evo.

 

Tommy any more updates on UOA's or any other analysis

 

I'm not Tommi but I should be getting an analysis result next week

 

None unfortunately. The evo broke down at the track last weekend, and I have it all torn apart trying to figure out what exactly happened. I pretty much ruined the head due to fuel pump going out and my engine oil smells really burnt, although all the cam bearings I inspected seemed fine. there were some 'sparklies' in my oil pan but when I opened up the oil filter it was fine. Oil seemed to be leaking out of the oil pump. I havent removed it yet but it spins and moves as it should. I dropped the pan and used a boroscope all over the place and no apparent damage to bottom end. I am thinking of pulling out the rod bearings and if those are good then I wont dissassemble the bottom end, except maybe a fresh set of rod bearings. No oil pressure light came on either when this happened. Well thats what I have been dealing with lately anyways. I will be back on here updating with more stuff as soon as I figure out what happened to my engine. Thanks again for everyone on here contributing their UOA's

 

Speak of the devil, my analysis came in today! Things look excellent:



Andy, I'm going to be ordering some more oil from you sometime soon, would you recommend me sticking with the ATM 10W30 or should I switch to something else? I'll be running a few track days per oil change this summer, so maybe the new high-ZDDP oil?

(Built 2.0 engine btw)

 

added your UOA to the first page, thanks.

 

You could run the Z Rod 10W30 or stick with the ATM 10W30, i noticed Blackstone said you could run 3500 next time , they are being way to conservtive you can take it to 5,000 no issues,specially after how your analysis came back like.

 

Well wish you the best in your fixing the car.

 

Thanks. My head is pretty much trash now but I tore it apart to examine the cam bearings. Surprisingly they were all good. cam lobes and rollers good. Although something happened to get the RD30 I was running hot enough to the point where the burnt oil smell stinks up a shop, it still protected enough at that point to not damage the top end stuff. Bottom end inspection is next.
I was gonna send it in to get UOA just for curiosity sake, but honestly it wouldnt have helped much. The damage is quite obvious.

 

I work for Penske truck leasing and we use all Shell oil products in all our trucks, at least my shop does anyway. Everything is computerized as far as perodic maintenance intervals and all that and we just got the oil/coolant sample analysises online. I've been checking quite a few trucks and I've seen a zinc/phosporus reading of OVER 1,000 on most trucks....and this is with OVER 20,000 miles on the engine oil (OCI is 30k). These aint no evo engine but I guess I'm just showing the high zinc/phos reading of the rotella T3 15w40, as long as the oil analysis'a are accurate, I forget the name of the place that does it, its not Blackstone but I can find out if someones really interested. From what I can see it looks like it comes out of the bottle (oil tank in our case) with around 1200-1300 and 1400ish for zinc and phos (or vice versa I forget) from what I've seen on engines with veryyy low miles on the oil, like under 100.

Most of these engines hold from 28 qts (Cat C7) to a new detroit diesel which holds around 43 qts which of course helps keep the oil from breaking down as much since it doesnt "recirculate" as much. Then again some of these engines are making OVER 2,000 ft lbs of torque with a 6 cylinder (Monster turbo haha) so it aint no honda motor and they tow anything you can imagine that has wheels on it, especially since alot of companies overload there trucks and trailers they do get stressed on. The international engines stress the oil even more with there high pressure pumps to activate the injectors which beats up the oil, on top of the oil pump for the oil system. Some run over 5,000 psi of oil pressure for the injectors. Last month I worked on a truck (peterbilt with a detroit series 60) that had over 800,000k miles on it. The truck was beat to hell but the engine ran great ha. We also use the 15w40 in all our gas rental trucks (GM vortec V8) and Reefer thermo king/carrier units which have little 3 cyl diesels in them. Just sharing my experience with what I see with the Rotella oil and our analysis's

I only use Rotella, Valvoline VR1 (currently since it was free) and will be switching to the amsoil z-rod oil for the evo.

 

Not sure if this has been asked already but is it ok to mix different weight oils as long as its the same brand and model? I ask because I think for my built motor and using it as a DD I think Valvoline VR1 20-50 is too thick and 10-30 is too light so if I mix it to be in between would that be ok? If I had a choice I would go with 10-40 but they dont make that weight

 

Or why not switch to a different brand that offers the weight you need?
I personally wouldnt do it but I guess you will come up with your own custom blend that way.

 

I would but Vr1 is available locally at auto parts stores and the other approved FP oils are not. I figured out if I use four 10w30 and one 20w50 it will make it a 12w34 which is closer to 10-40. Two 10w30 and three 20w50 would be 14w38 even closer but I want to keep the first number as close to 10 as possible.

 

Just go by AMS and get some oil, AMSOIL

 

I've noticed the lack of a suitable 10w-40 in 1 or 2 other oil lines as well.
The question to mix or not to mix is a good one. I've only found 1 opinion I would "trust" so far on that question. It is from LN Engineering. They are big on Brad Penn oils (Penn Grade 1). There is a Penn Grade 1 in 10w-40 available, but LN told me they prefer mixing the 0w30 and 20w50 half and half, instead of using the 10w40! I can't swear to you that this is the right recommendation, but these guys are no dummies. You might want to read their "Oil" page, which is here:
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

Warning, the UOA they show for the 20w-50 seems to have been mis-labeled as "Pennzoil" by some knucklehead at the Lab. But LN labels it BPR2050 for Brad Penn Racing 20w50. Wish they would fix that!