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Walbro 400LPH intank pump ? Anyone got any info

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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 06:50 AM
  #451  
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Originally Posted by mrfred
AMS did all their testing on the bench without an Evo pump carrier. I'm sure that Walbro did the same.
I'll see what I can find from Walbro and report back.
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 01:52 PM
  #452  
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We are looking to control the fuel pump with a solid state relay and a PWM signal from the ecu (Link/Vipec).

Is this a better way of doing it?
Will either this way or the standard resistor circuit bad for pump long term?

With using a SSR you can change the PWM signal to get the exact flow you want.

Cheers, Mike
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 08:45 PM
  #453  
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From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
Originally Posted by RSMike
We are looking to control the fuel pump with a solid state relay and a PWM signal from the ecu (Link/Vipec).

Is this a better way of doing it?
Will either this way or the standard resistor circuit bad for pump long term?

With using a SSR you can change the PWM signal to get the exact flow you want.

Cheers, Mike
Subies use a PWM signal to throttle the fuel pump, so apparently no problem for the fuel pump. You'll need to get the right SSR for the job. Most have fairly substantial resistance compared to the resistance of the fuel pump, and this will cause the pump to run below battery voltage even at 100% duty unless you intend to have a way to shunt the SSR above a certain load/boost. They also tend to run fairly hot, so it will need to be heat sinked. What frequency were you thinking of running?
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 09:22 PM
  #454  
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Originally Posted by mrfred
Subies use a PWM signal to throttle the fuel pump, so apparently no problem for the fuel pump. You'll need to get the right SSR for the job. Most have fairly substantial resistance compared to the resistance of the fuel pump, and this will cause the pump to run below battery voltage even at 100% duty unless you intend to have a way to shunt the SSR above a certain load/boost. They also tend to run fairly hot, so it will need to be heat sinked. What frequency were you thinking of running?
I'm pretty sure you can run anywhere from 10hz to 300hz with the Link G4 ecu. I was planning on 50hz.
We have it working really well with an electric water pump, so I dont see why a fuel pump would be any different.
I just wanted to check that this was common practice
It'll only be throttled back at low conditions to prevent overrun, imo a much simpler solution that hobbs switches etc

Cheers, Mike
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 10:02 PM
  #455  
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Originally Posted by Gleason at STM
Sorry, Justin may have mis-spoke.

Both cars that we maxed out the rewired walbro 400 on last year ( a 2G DSM on E85 making 588whp on our dyno and an FP Red powered Evo on E85 that made 572whp ) both have our STM Fuel Pressure Regulator Return kits on them and NOT the stock FPR.



-Brian Gleason
www.stmtuned.com

Brian, did you need to drill out the siphon tube to get the flow required for these hp levels?
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Old Aug 17, 2012 | 09:28 AM
  #456  
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Originally Posted by drb
Brian, did you need to drill out the siphon tube to get the flow required for these hp levels?
I had the same question for STM.
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 07:47 PM
  #457  
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I have some questions if anyone knows. I bought two new E85 400 pumps to put into my double pumper. I am running a -8 feed / -6 return lines and a Fuel lab FPR. my question is

1. Do I need to do a rewire mod and if so how come?
2. Do I need to drill out the plastic tube thingy and if so how come?
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 04:35 PM
  #458  
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Originally Posted by evilevo2006
I have some questions if anyone knows. I bought two new E85 400 pumps to put into my double pumper. I am running a -8 feed / -6 return lines and a Fuel lab FPR. my question is

1. Do I need to do a rewire mod and if so how come?
2. Do I need to drill out the plastic tube thingy and if so how come?
1. No rewire needed.
2. You shouldn't have to drill the return tube.
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 06:13 PM
  #459  
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Originally Posted by wizzo 8
1. No rewire needed.
2. You shouldn't have to drill the return tube.

OK thank you sir. i will leave it all alone. but would you mind explaining why some people rewire and drill out that part?
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 06:25 PM
  #460  
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Originally Posted by evilevo2006
OK thank you sir. i will leave it all alone. but would you mind explaining why some people rewire and drill out that part?
If you rewire the primary pump to battery voltage it will flow more. With these 2 pumps you shouldn't have any issues with fuel supply. If you are pushing over 1000 HP then yes rewire the primary pump. Drilling that suction tube is necessary only if you run out of gas when in fact you still have a 1/4 tank still on gauge. I wouldn't drill it until you find out you actually need to drill it.
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 06:35 PM
  #461  
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Originally Posted by wizzo 8
If you rewire the primary pump to battery voltage it will flow more. With these 2 pumps you shouldn't have any issues with fuel supply. If you are pushing over 1000 HP then yes rewire the primary pump. Drilling that suction tube is necessary only if you run out of gas when in fact you still have a 1/4 tank still on gauge. I wouldn't drill it until you find out you actually need to drill it.
I do not have that issue so no worries there. I thought what caused that was pump height?

One more thing. the red and black wire off the ''secondary'' pump. I have the red wire going to the + on the battery. The ground is just grounded. Would it be better to run that to the - terminal on the battery for best results?
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 06:52 PM
  #462  
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Originally Posted by evilevo2006
I do not have that issue so no worries there. I thought what caused that was pump height?

One more thing. the red and black wire off the ''secondary'' pump. I have the red wire going to the + on the battery. The ground is just grounded. Would it be better to run that to the - terminal on the battery for best results?
The way you described wiring in the seconds pump would mean its on all the time. You need either a pressure switch or have the ecu kick the second pump on.
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 06:55 PM
  #463  
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oops. i am a dumb ***. I have the red wire going to a relay for the standalone. then from the relay to the battery. the ECU ''set by the tuner'' tells the relay to kick the pump on or off.

The ground is just grounded but was thinking if it would be better to run the ground right to the battery. sorry for the confusion.
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 07:03 PM
  #464  
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Ok that works. Any good ground should be ok. No need to go to neg of battery.
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 09:59 PM
  #465  
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Originally Posted by way2qik
600-650awhp is very respectable. Nothing wrong with that at all! Its just that once you start making over 750hp, you get into the territory where two Walbro 255s are just being pushed to their limits, especially on E85. The 400s are a nice step forward, but as fuel pressure increases the ability of those pumps to flow lots of fuel decreases as well. And it takes at least 80psi of fuel pressure to make 40lbs of boost (which is what it takes to make big power) if you have a base pressure of 40psi set on the regulator.
My build plans changed some and went bigger turbo, We are still in the process of working out some kinks, but the car vdr's 728 and still alot left in the setup. I am running two wally 255's this setup here.



So soon when we start to turn up the wick some more we'll see when if it starts to run out of ethanol... maybe have to go a diff route or run race fuel lol
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