better fan with more cfm's would make the diff
as i mentioned, with the smaller rad, the fan would cycle more often
space and weight wise, I too am seriously thinking but I only have hot temps where I am, Florida's weather is a joke lol

 

Isn't there a component you have to pull of the stock fan and put it on the slim fan? What did you have to do for this. I'm installing my kit tonight so any help would be appreciated.

 

Are you referring to the fan control box? If so, I just bolted it on to the slim fan. There are a couple screw hole spots on the back of the fan motor you can re use the oem bolt to screw on and hold the control box snug.

 

Which fan did you use?

I switched to the OEM fan and it helps in stop and go traffic. Temps are down to 215 F. I'm still getting 226 F on the highway, especially when I go into 100+ Load. I'm thinking of ordering a 1600 or 1800 CFM fan tonight.

 

I'm not sure where on the fan you are talking about. I'm using a mishimoto radiator, fan, and shroud and I don't see what you would be talking about. Anybody have pics of where they mounted the fan control box?

 

I like and will be doing the same I'm ordering this setup tonight and racing autox in June so I'll post results. My Prosport peak water temp seems to be dead accurate for those wondering if it cools the same

 

I ended up buying a 1600 cfm 12" fan I'm still getting high temps, up to 230* in high 80* weather.
Next I'm going to try a fan shroud.

Here's a pic of the engine bay. I love the room I have, but need the temps to come down!!!

 

dumb question but have you tried making the fan rotate the opposite way?

im not sure if your fan can be used in reversed polarity but i guess its something to try.

 

brand of fan? ebay unit aren't that good
blox has one with some good reviews
spal has a nice one for honda's i think with a shroud all built in
make sure it is wired to pull air in, think that is the stock way

 

upper 80* weather here in wisconsin...and mine is keeping temps a tiny bit below half on the stock temp gauge...

daily driven!

 

There seems to be a pretty good amount of gap between the radiator and fan. I wonder if this gap is hurting you from drawing in the most amount of air through the radiator..

What does the oem water temp show when you log 230* temps?

Also in the pic I can see air bubble in the coolant hose. Have you burped the system for air pockets?

 

You gave me an idea! Since I have another slim fan that came with the radiator, I'll set that up to push from the front. I'll have 2 fans going, one pull and one push.

I got this one from Silicone Intakes here in Colorado. It's set up to pull, but I don't think there's enough cfm.

Good point. I'll mount it closer to the radiator. I just didn't want to take off the radiator to use the zip tie through the radiator mounts. I can adjust the brackets I made so they are closer.
My oem water temp shows just below half way mark. I wonder if others are actually overheating too, but don't know it because they are just looking at the temp gauge. I'm using evoscan to get readings.
I do need to bleed the cooling system again. I only did it once. This could be a problem if the t stat wasn't opening, but it is.

 

Using the stock coolant gauge is very innacurate and misleading. I think using Redline Water Wetter or an equivalent is a must. As far as the fan situation, is there anyway Tim85851 can get an exact temp reading at operating temps/under load?

 

I'll take some logs to see what Evoscan is showing compared to the gauge. My gauge also shows oem location for the temp which is right under middle way.

 

Are you guys running your a/c with these radiators? I'm curious as to how well they will hold up to 100 degree summer days with the a/c working.