INSTALLED: EBAY Civic Half Size Radiator!
Ordered a 7" push fan to go in front of the radiator. It'll actually be between the FMIC and the A/C condenser. It's rated at 1100 CFM's. Add that to my 12" 1600 CFM puller fan, I should be fine!
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Madison, WI
small report:
stop and go traffic, bumper to bumper, 85* weather...
the temp gauge needle went a tiny bit above 50%...as soon as i started moving again it was fine.
stop and go traffic, bumper to bumper, 85* weather...
the temp gauge needle went a tiny bit above 50%...as soon as i started moving again it was fine.
I would imagine switching to a different thermostat would also help out in keeping temps down. I like this cheap and effective radiator idea. I may have to try this in the near future for weight savings and more room!
I have the ebay setup and haven't had any problems with overheating at all and I live in FL. I'll log my temps tomorrow afternoon on the way home from work (1 p.m. with traffic) and see how she looks. OEM gauge hasn't budged though I know how it likes to fool you until it's a little too hot.
86* weather today and I did some data logging.
Driving around the street, idling at the traffic light etc.. The highest coolant temp logged was 194* F . Driving around or fan kicking on it would drop down to 188* F. OEM water gauge shows the same as usual just slightly below the half mark.
In short my temps always stayed consistent between 188-194* F . This was with AC off, didnt think about testing with AC on. maybe next time....
Driving around the street, idling at the traffic light etc.. The highest coolant temp logged was 194* F . Driving around or fan kicking on it would drop down to 188* F. OEM water gauge shows the same as usual just slightly below the half mark.
In short my temps always stayed consistent between 188-194* F . This was with AC off, didnt think about testing with AC on. maybe next time....
I dont know, if it does bring temps down that idea seems to mask your real issue.
-Is there proper amount of fluid in your coolant reservoir ?
-Did you try to remove possible air bubbles in the system using Lisle funnel ?
-Have you looked inside your radiator through the filler cap to make sure its a dual core ?
Not sure what else, because if it works for my car then it should work for all Evo's as well. Unless you have a faulty radiator ? Just so you know, if all else fails they have a three core radiator as well.
Wont that also work against you by blocking some of the air paths ?
I dont know, if it does bring temps down that idea seems to mask your real issue.
-Is there proper amount of fluid in your coolant reservoir ?
-Did you try to remove possible air bubbles in the system using Lisle funnel ?
-Have you looked inside your radiator through the filler cap to make sure its a dual core ?
Not sure what else, because if it works for my car then it should work for all Evo's as well. Unless you have a faulty radiator ? Just so you know, if all else fails they have a three core radiator as well.
I dont know, if it does bring temps down that idea seems to mask your real issue.
-Is there proper amount of fluid in your coolant reservoir ?
-Did you try to remove possible air bubbles in the system using Lisle funnel ?
-Have you looked inside your radiator through the filler cap to make sure its a dual core ?
Not sure what else, because if it works for my car then it should work for all Evo's as well. Unless you have a faulty radiator ? Just so you know, if all else fails they have a three core radiator as well.
The reservoir is up to the max.
I'll be bleeding the system as I'm checking the new fan set up.
I did look inside and it's a dual core.
I think the flow will be fine. It's kind of tucked behind the FMIC, but it should be fine. You can see the A/C fan is in front of the passengers side and it flowed pretty good. I can feel blowing right through. I'm pretty sure this will fix it. How could it not? Cross fingers
Here's a few pics:

Just thought I'd update this. I thought maybe the stock gauge was lying, it would go to the half way mark and never get above it. Because the radiator is all aluminum it radiates more heat and may seem like its "overheating" or running hotter than it should. I was able to get a hold of my buddies obd 2 code reader that displays live data. I had it hooked up on my way home from work while driving on the highway with ac on and in stop and go traffic with the ac on, the ECT reading never got above 190*F. I also used my infrared thermometer on the upper hose when I got home and it read 175ish. Also, I am just using 50/50 Prestone.
Just thought I'd update this. I thought maybe the stock gauge was lying, it would go to the half way mark and never get above it. Because the radiator is all aluminum it radiates more heat and may seem like its "overheating" or running hotter than it should. I was able to get a hold of my buddies obd 2 code reader that displays live data. I had it hooked up on my way home from work while driving on the highway with ac on and in stop and go traffic with the ac on, the ECT reading never got above 190*F. I also used my infrared thermometer on the upper hose when I got home and it read 175ish. Also, I am just using 50/50 Prestone.
Would the obd 2 code reader be the same readings as evoscan? I'm just confused why mine seems to be higher than everybody else. One theory of mine is because I live at high altitude, which has thinner air, could cause this type of radiator to run hotter than at sea level. Just a theory. I may just get a Mishimoto full radiator 

Anybody reporting it works based on the stock gauge must not realize that gauge is a dummy gauge. If the car is anywhere between like 160 and 230, it sits in the middle.
I've had an ebay civic radiator in my car and I've since replaced it. It got the job done, I just didn't feel like it had any reserve cooling capacity and so I went a different direction.
It will handle daily driving, drag racing, and 60-90 second auto-x runs without the A/C in there while keeping temps under 215F once properly setup (stock cooling maps need changing). I feel 215F is way too hot for those types of heat inputs though. I can't comment on how it will act with A/C.
I've had an ebay civic radiator in my car and I've since replaced it. It got the job done, I just didn't feel like it had any reserve cooling capacity and so I went a different direction.
It will handle daily driving, drag racing, and 60-90 second auto-x runs without the A/C in there while keeping temps under 215F once properly setup (stock cooling maps need changing). I feel 215F is way too hot for those types of heat inputs though. I can't comment on how it will act with A/C.
Hopefully I didn't scare any of you off from using the half radiator. I think I figured out why mine is running hot. BluEvoIX was on to something with my upper radiator hose having an air bubble. I bled it several more times and it keeps getting low after I drive it. The overflow bottle keeps getting filled up and it doesn't go back into the radiator when it cools off. So, from what I understand this = Blown Head Gasket
I've tested it with several methods and all tests say the HG is good, but it may lift only when I go WOT. So the chemical test doesn't show anything, the cooling system pressure test doesn't leak and the oil looks normal. I've even sent a sample to BlackStone Labs and it didn't show traces of coolant.
If it is the HG, this would explain why I'm getting high temps. A few months ago I suspected HG because my overflow bottle would get full and not go back to the radiator, but I thought I'd try all the simple stuff first. I replaced my radiator cap (it was leaking a little). That didn't solve it, so I got a ralliart 1.3:1 bar cap. That worked. My overflow wasn't getting full. Then my radiator sprung a hole. So that's why I got the half radiator (which I love all the space it freed up). I used my 1.3:1 bar cap, but then I was getting overheating and the overflow once again didn't flow back to the radiator. So I tried a new 1.1:1 cap. Same problem. It's fine if I drive like my wife (which is never, but I notice after she drives it it's fine).
So...after I get the HG replaced, I think I will try again with the 1/2 radiator. Call me crazy, but I just love all the space, plus I am looking forward to a T3 or T4 set up in the future.
I've tested it with several methods and all tests say the HG is good, but it may lift only when I go WOT. So the chemical test doesn't show anything, the cooling system pressure test doesn't leak and the oil looks normal. I've even sent a sample to BlackStone Labs and it didn't show traces of coolant.
If it is the HG, this would explain why I'm getting high temps. A few months ago I suspected HG because my overflow bottle would get full and not go back to the radiator, but I thought I'd try all the simple stuff first. I replaced my radiator cap (it was leaking a little). That didn't solve it, so I got a ralliart 1.3:1 bar cap. That worked. My overflow wasn't getting full. Then my radiator sprung a hole. So that's why I got the half radiator (which I love all the space it freed up). I used my 1.3:1 bar cap, but then I was getting overheating and the overflow once again didn't flow back to the radiator. So I tried a new 1.1:1 cap. Same problem. It's fine if I drive like my wife (which is never, but I notice after she drives it it's fine).
So...after I get the HG replaced, I think I will try again with the 1/2 radiator. Call me crazy, but I just love all the space, plus I am looking forward to a T3 or T4 set up in the future.








