hks rs with apex'i air filter or blitz air sonic power air filter

 

I think HKS uses those open filter elements on Turbo equipped cars, because whatever the small debris that passes through that open filter will burn up in the engine anyway, because of the more than average heat that the Turbo engine produces.

It just burns hotter, the turbo engines...

some race turbo cars with 25G+ turbos don't even have a filter.

 

The filter that comes w/the AEM is easy to service, because you don't need to replace it, you just have to clean it out w/the filter recharger kit.

Are there any other intakes out there w/reusable filters?

 

I got the AEM. Typhoon looks about the same yet the pick shows a BOV hose top and bottom clamp. AEM does not have the top BOV hose clamp. ALso the AEM rubber mount for the intake arm has no nut to put on top the rubber mount bolt assembly. You dont really need it since the filter is pressed aginst the hood. For aesthetics at least, looks M/M. The AEM filter is literally touching the hood at the black heat resistant material. Leaves a mark on the filter. It is loud and I haer the BOV sound of all the time. I did not think I would hear the BOV sound off like I had aftermartet one.

 

You can make around 10whp more with a hks set up than the stock with a K&N drop in It's been proven FYI

 

i was also thinking about the AEM intake especially since it comes with a heat shield. and evolutionm tested it with pretty good results. im guessin without a tune too. some sat AEM sucks. but what does HKS rs and buscher do on the dyno with no tune compared to the AEM. also i was thinkin about gettin the INJEN intake since they known for good intakes for imports and they also come with a upper I/C pipin.

anyone have any thoughts

 

i like the injen if it was out when i purchased my intake i would have gone with it!!

 

I was real happy with my Injen intake for my last car... but I heard that intake in the Evo doesn't really make much of a difference... at least not near the difference it makes in other cars. anyone got dyno's before/after ?

 

RNR Custom 3in. Cold Air Intake

 

hks is good for about 13 hp, so is the apexi.

 

My question is, to maybe clear some things up, what intakes force you to remap the ECU, and what intakes can you just drop in and not effect the MAF, ECU, and A/F ratios?

 

HKS RS! Love it.

 

the KN panel drop in (or similar) will work on stock ECU. Anything else will run, but not very well. Someone did some datlogging a while back. If you are interested Id sell you my KN panel filter. I only used it for a few thousand miles before I went CAI

 

I installed the k&n typhoon and my problems began right away. The MAF sensor really does it's work. After my research and stress it was determined that I was experiencing a fuel cut from the change of intake. I changed it back and problem solved. Seems like I need to invest in some type of engine management like utec or xede so that I can tune when some aftermarket stuff is installed.

Experiment but be prepared for what may happen next.

 

Just came in from my test. My car is definitely coming back. Careful to all who change intake. I'm fixed now but below I've pasted the results of my research when I got car problems. I'm hoping it helps newbies like me to solve any probs they may run into after changing intakes:

Symptom:
A very sudden de-acceleration due to the fuel being cut to the injectors,
similar to your foot slipping off the accelerator except it will recover
almost immediately. It occurs if over boost is detected while accelerating
hard (common at roughly 4000rpm in 2nd, 3rd or 4th gear but possible at
other rpm and gears). Also it is more common if the outside air
temperature is colder.

Problem and cure:
Fuel Cuts are the Engine Management's way of stopping serious over boost
situations occurring. Instead of detecting the actual boost pressure the
ECU (Electronic Control Unit) uses information from the Air Flow meter to
work out the boost pressure. The ECU will cut the fuel at roughly 1.3 bar
boost pressure (18.8 PSI) on the Evo 6 (approximately 1.5 bar on the Evo
7) but the specific cut point is dependant on atmospheric conditions at
the time so it will not be the same from car to car. Fuel cuts are more
likely to occur in winter as the air is colder and therefore more dense.
Early Evo models may have a lower cut point that is in relation to their
standard boost pressure level setting.

Fuel cuts commonly occur after fitting an upgraded aftermarket induction
kit and/or exhaust due to the increased air flow they create but fuel cuts
have occurred on standard cars before. It is also possible for fuel cuts
to occur due to a faulty Wastegate Actuator but it is not that common (see
elsewhere).

Do not live with fuel cuts! The sudden cutting of the fuel sends a shock
through the engine and drivetrain which in itself can be harmful. You can
temporarily 'drive around' fuel cuts by avoiding using full acceleration
or if very worried keeping below 4000rpm at all times (as if you were
running in the engine).

The cure for fuel cuts depend on what is causing it and also what you
intend to do with your car. If you believe the over boost is due to any
upgraded parts that have been fitted then the boost level can be dropped
fairly easily by a manual alteration to the Boost Control system, although
dropping the boost obviously partially defeats the object of fitting
performance parts. If you intend to modify your car further then you will
require an upgrade to the Engine Management to either eliminate the cut
point or 'work around' it. It is not recommended that you use a 'Fuel Cut
Defenser' as they tell the ECU that the fuel cut point has not been
reached by electronically reducing the air flow signal and this can lead
to a lean mixture as the ECU will reduce the fuelling to suit.