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The OFFICIAL Oil Filter Testing and Results Thread (4G63T/4B11T)

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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 07:06 AM
  #121  
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From: Massachusetts
Done with school and back up north so unfortunately I probably wont be going to any more philly events.

Anyway, that head does look very clean. What's your oil of choice and your typical OCI? AS you said I'm sure that test is a little outdated and that the filter construction has changed thought the years between the manufactures.

I think without proper testing and an oil analysis, its hard to say what filters work and what dont. That's why I like this test done because it's quite thorough IMO with some technical aspects included, but also very easy to follow and interpret.
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 07:16 AM
  #122  
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From: Philadelphia
Originally Posted by heel2toe
Done with school and back up north so unfortunately I probably wont be going to any more philly events.

Anyway, that head does look very clean. What's your oil of choice and your typical OCI? AS you said I'm sure that test is a little outdated and that the filter construction has changed thought the years between the manufactures.

I think without proper testing and an oil analysis, its hard to say what filters work and what dont. That's why I like this test done because it's quite thorough IMO with some technical aspects included, but also very easy to follow and interpret.
Congrats on finishing school. That's certinly an accomplishment to be proud of! Where's home again? I'll be going up to WGI and hopefully Limerock this summer.

For the nearly half of the engine's life, it ran completely on Mobil1 oil and filter. I swapped to Amsoil in mid-2006, running Signature in the winter months (Novermber-March) and Amsoil high-zinc 10w40 in the summer. In those times, I was between the Amsoil filter or Mobil 1 filters only. I usually do about 3 track days plus street miles in between changes. I don't count autox as I don't believe it puts that much wear in the oil for 60 sec runs.
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 07:18 AM
  #123  
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From: digging for oil
Originally Posted by chu
^ Not much man, you?

It's been almost a decade since I read that test, so I'm not sure where to even begin looking for it. Maybe it's old and outdated; I haven't looked into the lastest techonology. But as I said, I've been happy with my filter choice.

Here's a pic of the head with 147k on it. Completely stock head, with the exception of the GSC S1 cams, which has approximately 80k on them.


IMAG0302 by turboniumcivic, on Flickr


What oil and filter combo have you been running ?
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 07:23 AM
  #124  
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From: Philadelphia
^You need to get working on my AMSOIL account renewal.

Good answer?
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 07:40 AM
  #125  
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From: Massachusetts
^

Thanks! Now I'm back in Massachusetts. No track time for me yet, its still my dd and I cant afford to really f it up...yet. Fort Devens is a pretty awesome venue though for AX.

Sorry for the OT, back to oil filters. I think I want to give the Purolator filter a shot. I dont plan to extent my OCI and it looks to filter quite well. Also contemplating going all out and getting an Amsoil filters. Hell, every other fluid in my car is Amsoil so I do love their products. But if I can get essentially the same filtration from the Purolator, then it seems as those the justification for the Amsoil filter is to increase my OCI which I have no desire to do.
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 07:52 AM
  #126  
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From: digging for oil
Originally Posted by chu
^You need to get working on my AMSOIL account renewal.

Good answer?


Well that answers my question.

I'll shoot you a pm to take care of renewing your account.
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 11:20 PM
  #127  
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From: Redmond Washington
Had another random thought about the bypass valve and how the unwanted effects of it could be minimized in a from-the-ground-up OEM design:

In the BMW M5 from, not sure what years, but I think about 2001 to present, the tachometer has a dynamic red-line. That is, on a cold start, the redline displayed on the tach starts out very low. Then as the engine warms up, the redline gradually moves up the scale until at some point it gets up to its normal position.

Now I always though this was probably figured from thermal expansion of the pistons and valve train componenets, oil viscosity effects other than in the oil filter, and activation of oil additives like ZDDP which are temperature activated, you know, all the usual suspects.

But it could also be figured from knowing the relationship between oil temperature, RPM, and pressure across the oil filter element, which would tell you what RPM opens the bypass valve at every temperature. An OEM could know this stuff if they wanted to.

Just another wild-assed random thought. No extra charge.
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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 07:10 PM
  #128  
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Thanks for taking to do this. I really appreciate when people take the time to conduct thorough, relevant and objective testing.
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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 07:38 PM
  #129  
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my god i just looked at this thread again.. u did some damn good research for those manufacturers out there they should send u free **** to run/test
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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 09:15 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by kyoo
my god i just looked at this thread again.. u did some damn good research for those manufacturers out there they should send u free **** to run/test
I would abstain.

If I was receiving kickbacks, the validity of this test and entire thread would be called into question. One of the things that makes this post so great (IMO) is the neutrality I began with.

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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 09:21 PM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by golgo13
I would abstain.

If I was receiving kickbacks, the validity of this test and entire thread would be called into question. One of the things that makes this post so great (IMO) is the neutrality I began with.

TROOOF!

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Old Jan 28, 2013 | 12:56 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by golgo13
I would abstain.

If I was receiving kickbacks, the validity of this test and entire thread would be called into question. One of the things that makes this post so great (IMO) is the neutrality I began with.

lol fair enough!
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 07:51 AM
  #133  
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Here is a guy that did a particle count on the Bosch D3323. Pretty good results.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2195882

Also to note that the regular bosch (not the Distance+ filter from bosch) is a rebranded PureOne, based on the information from the bobistheoilguy.com forums. So your local autozone should sell these equivalents.

Last edited by AWDTerror; Jan 30, 2013 at 08:23 AM.
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 10:45 AM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by AWDTerror
Here is a guy that did a particle count on the Bosch D3323. Pretty good results.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2195882

Also to note that the regular bosch (not the Distance+ filter from bosch) is a rebranded PureOne, based on the information from the bobistheoilguy.com forums. So your local autozone should sell these equivalents.
So, Bosch owns Purolator, they make ALL the filters for Bosch. But yeah, you're paying for the name when you shell out extra dough for a Bosch unless it's engineered to different specs, of course.

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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 10:58 AM
  #135  
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From: OH
Great tests and write up!

But we don't know the bypass psi for the stock/denso filter?

I ordered up 2 Puros (one for my Legacy GT as well).

People seem to like those filters, though the Subaru (blue) filters have 23 psi bypass. Far higher than most aftermarket/OEM filters. Seems the new Wix/Napa have 26 psi bypass...
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