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it's to help move oil out at high RPMs. I don't know why they don't use smaller diameter holes. Or why they don't find a way to brace the load around the holes.
I would totally agree as I haven’t heard of any engine builder pushing a 2.3 to 9k, I feel 8.5k is even high and 8k is a much safer #. Like most say want to rev it high go 2.2 or smaller. I have a 2.3 with a Manley billet 100mm built by Tscomp, I don’t have any issues, but if had to do it all over again I would of definitely went 2.2 to rev higher.
If we limit piston speed to 26m/s, rev limit is 7,800.
I would totally agree as I haven’t heard of any engine builder pushing a 2.3 to 9k, I feel 8.5k is even high and 8k is a much safer #. Like most say want to rev it high go 2.2 or smaller. I have a 2.3 with a Manley billet 100mm built by Tscomp, I don’t have any issues, but if had to do it all over again I would of definitely went 2.2 to rev higher.
correct. the higher the displacement the less high you should rev it.
the smaller the displacement the higher you can rev it to be on the safe side.
Often people don't understand the immense forces act by reving a stroker compared to a stock 2.0...
correct. the higher the displacement the less high you should rev it.
the smaller the displacement the higher you can rev it to be on the safe side.
Often people don't understand the immense forces act by reving a stroker compared to a stock 2.0...
Just to add to this. Piston Speed (and with it increasing friction) is one of the limiting factors. In the case of a 2.3 stroker, with the higher displacement you're increasing the stroke, which increases the piston speed at a given RPM. The displacement itself doesn't necessarily dictate the RPM limit.
"1100+whp starts to microfracture it. We have never seen one break though so I am not sure I would be too concerned. Aftermarket cranks main advantage is they offer lighter weight, and in the case of the Magnus it is truly stronger and problem free by comparison."
Post #4 is E.R's response to a similar question I posed a long time ago. Feel free to get a crank, but I wouldn't go anything less the K1. Just my personal opinion though.
That mentality has changed significantly, from them, in the last almost 10 years. 88mm cranks on their high HP builds has been stated many times here. They do some 94mm and 100mm builds, but usually steer away from it. Especially when it comes to OEM 100mm. There have been enough broken now (mine included) that it warrants not pushing that risk when the outcome can cost 5x as much as a billet crank.
That mentality has changed significantly, from them, in the last almost 10 years. 88mm cranks on their high HP builds has been stated many times here. They do some 94mm and 100mm builds, but usually steer away from it. Especially when it comes to OEM 100mm. There have been enough broken now (mine included) that it warrants not pushing that risk when the outcome can cost 5x as much as a billet crank.
Have there been? I guess I haven't seen enough "broken stock crank" threads to realize this.
4 years ago these boostin cars were all on stock cranks.
BP car's running OEM cranks
-Red Demon - 8.12 ET
-Junk Box - 8.77 ET
-Jason's Evo8 street car - 9.2 ET
-Kristin's Evo9 street car - 9.2 ET
Of course a quality billet crank is better then an OEM crank. However, unless you're under extreme duty situations, a stock crank can take a lot of abuse.
Mine most likely cracked from holding lots of rev limiter. Upper 4xx got to top of 2nd real fast but In AutoX you have to make decisions on if its worth it to shift. So we had a lot of 7800rpm sustained limiter for 3 years. It broke on the wife driving last year in a particularly heavy rev limit course. Now on a 2.2l with a 94mm billet K1 crank annd 4.11 gears to extend 2nd.
"1100+whp starts to microfracture it. We have never seen one break though so I am not sure I would be too concerned. Aftermarket cranks main advantage is they offer lighter weight, and in the case of the Magnus it is truly stronger and problem free by comparison."
Post #4 is E.R's response to a similar question I posed a long time ago. Feel free to get a crank, but I wouldn't go anything less the K1. Just my personal opinion though.
Manley responded - and will warranty the crank. They are shipping me a brand new billet crank.
It will be balanced(along with the full assembly) and it will spend its whole life with a fluidampr on it.
Post up some pics of the new crank's #4 journal when you get it. Manley was talking about redesigning their oiling holes to keep them from cracking. Curious to see if they're putting out revised cranks by now.
why?
theres plenty of 800-900 inch mountain motors spinning into the 9000 range. my friend has a 3000+hp 509 with 4.25" (108mm) stroke and he runs through the traps at 10,500ish rpm.
theres always tradeoffs but to think a 100mm stroke cant go over 7500 rpm is just silly.
