Thank you

 

I hate the sound of an equal length manifolds too. Could always have someone make a custom manifold with unequal length runners so it would sound somewhat similar to stock. How much power would be lost idk but the fp cast manifold has been taken pretty far on zeros and is very far from equal length.

 

I'm using an Emtron KV8. It's just a boost vs RPM scatter graph, very easy to do on my setups.

 

I would not be interested in sacrificing performance for sound. Its one thing to have a stock frame turbo and use the FP cast manifold as it does work well. But if spedning the money to move to a turbo kit, I'd like it to be optimized for performance.

I should be able to get spool up results in gears 1-3 and maybe 4th this weekend. Going to be getting the car buttoned up to go back to the owner.

 

As promised, logs of the spool up in 1-4, and also a 1-4 rip to show transient response. It honestly feels identical to the MHI FP red when it was on my stock engine (non-mivec 2.0, S2's). This car is a non-mivec 2.2 with S2's.

First one has the 1st, 2nd, ad 3rd gear log files, 2nd one has 4th gear and the 1-4.

https://datazap.me/u/letsgetthisdone...2-3&hg=1-1-2-3
https://datazap.me/u/letsgetthisdone...3-4&hg=1-2-3-4

@RSMike

 

Yea I reviewed the logs and the turbo does spool up fast. I believe the data shows that the transient response from vacuum to full boost is averaging a little under a second between most shifts.

 

I was gathering .3-.4 second boost recovery.

 

Yea that's a better estimation. Were the pulls done using NLTS?

 

No, that's regular old lifting to shift.

 

Granny shifting, not double clutchin like you should...

 

Hahaha

 

Cool - thanks for the info.
So your 20psi boost threshold in each gear is around:
1st - 5350rpm
2nd - 4550rpm
3rd - 4100rpm
4th - 3850rpm

For comparison - mine with the TD06-20G sized turbo and twin scroll (which will make much less power than yours) is:
1st - 5500rpm
2nd - 4000rpm
3rd - 3200rpm
4th - 2850rpm
(for same 20psi boost level)

 

Where is makes 20psi really doesn't matter. Where it makes 300ftlbs on a dyno is whats important. So not having a dyno sheet to see what torqwue # that 20psi correlates to, the data becomes vague.

 

I feel like I invented this, but I probably did to myself. 300ftlbs is such a good number for us because once you hit that your moving fast to whatever RPM you need. So I totally agree, I look at 300 ft-lbs rpm more than anything in response.

 

I do think I picked it up from you, or it was at least from this forum. But it has held very true since I started paying attention to it years ago.