BR EVO's and Showdown featured in Turbo Magazine..
Dave, I subscribe to Turbo, & SCC, just read your article. Yea, I always look at the mod list & the engine shots to see what they have. Most of the time, I do not pay much attention to the dyno #'s. Partially, due to them running race gas, & NOS, or just how I even know how to add 10-20%hp with messing with the graphs & correction factors.
I'm not a 1/4mi guy, I'm a full course guy, so I need a brood torque curve, & fast spool up. When they do post dyno #'s, it kills me when theses cars have a 2000rpm power band. It's useless for the road course.
Really it doesn't matter much, it's all about building a nice car. It good to see what works & what doesn't.
Your cars seam a little on the mild side, but have good #'s. It kills me when you see a 800whp EVO running stock suspension & brakes, like the red one in Turbo, well he is running smaller 1/4 mi brakes.
Like everything, you take it for what it's worth, the cars in the Mag got to get your attention, big inflated #'s get it. Anyone who knows engine tuning, can tell the real ones form the fanboys.
Little edit, I wanted to know why you removed the strut bar?
I'm not a 1/4mi guy, I'm a full course guy, so I need a brood torque curve, & fast spool up. When they do post dyno #'s, it kills me when theses cars have a 2000rpm power band. It's useless for the road course.
Really it doesn't matter much, it's all about building a nice car. It good to see what works & what doesn't.
Your cars seam a little on the mild side, but have good #'s. It kills me when you see a 800whp EVO running stock suspension & brakes, like the red one in Turbo, well he is running smaller 1/4 mi brakes.
Like everything, you take it for what it's worth, the cars in the Mag got to get your attention, big inflated #'s get it. Anyone who knows engine tuning, can tell the real ones form the fanboys.
Little edit, I wanted to know why you removed the strut bar?
I went to Turbo Magazines site and copied this for you guys. Here is where you can subscribe if you want to. It's $27 per year and one of the better real car mags on the stands:
buthttps://store.primediamags.com/subscribe/turbomagazine/I7DBNN
EVOIIIM3,
I just tried road racing for the first time this year and I am absolutely HOOKED myself. Whether someone is a 1/4 mile guy or not it is still the absolute best way for people across the world to compare performance of their vehicles. I mean it is a set distance and a straight line. So in the worste case you can look at the MPH from a poorer driver and get a darn good idea how the car works. When it comes to road courses though, comparing one 2 mile course to another is worthless. I agree that a broad power band is the best, that is my goal on any car we build, sometimes you can do it, sometimes you can't.
As for my front strut bar, it seems to constantly be in the way when I am working on something and it was 7 pounds, so off it went. I had a DC Ti bar on it at one time which is super light but I stole it for the Time Attack car and never replaced it.
We have autocrossed the RS and it has done really well, especially considering the alignment nor engine are set up to do that type of racing.
buthttps://store.primediamags.com/subscribe/turbomagazine/I7DBNN
EVOIIIM3,
I just tried road racing for the first time this year and I am absolutely HOOKED myself. Whether someone is a 1/4 mile guy or not it is still the absolute best way for people across the world to compare performance of their vehicles. I mean it is a set distance and a straight line. So in the worste case you can look at the MPH from a poorer driver and get a darn good idea how the car works. When it comes to road courses though, comparing one 2 mile course to another is worthless. I agree that a broad power band is the best, that is my goal on any car we build, sometimes you can do it, sometimes you can't.
As for my front strut bar, it seems to constantly be in the way when I am working on something and it was 7 pounds, so off it went. I had a DC Ti bar on it at one time which is super light but I stole it for the Time Attack car and never replaced it.
We have autocrossed the RS and it has done really well, especially considering the alignment nor engine are set up to do that type of racing.
I just tried road racing for the first time this year and I am absolutely HOOKED myself. Whether someone is a 1/4 mile guy or not it is still the absolute best way for people across the world to compare performance of their vehicles. I mean it is a set distance and a straight line. So in the worste case you can look at the MPH from a poorer driver and get a darn good idea how the car works. When it comes to road courses though, comparing one 2 mile course to another is worthless. I agree that a broad power band is the best, that is my goal on any car we build, sometimes you can do it, sometimes you can't.
As for my front strut bar, it seems to constantly be in the way when I am working on something and it was 7 pounds, so off it went. I had a DC Ti bar on it at one time which is super light but I stole it for the Time Attack car and never replaced it.
We have autocrossed the RS and it has done really well, especially considering the alignment nor engine are set up to do that type of racing.
As for my front strut bar, it seems to constantly be in the way when I am working on something and it was 7 pounds, so off it went. I had a DC Ti bar on it at one time which is super light but I stole it for the Time Attack car and never replaced it.
We have autocrossed the RS and it has done really well, especially considering the alignment nor engine are set up to do that type of racing.
My problem with comparing even 1/4mi times, is that all tracks are not the same, the gas & tires are not the same, altitude & weather are not the same. These can change things quite a bit. Just like at the Auto-X, some one with some Hoosiers on a stock car, will wipe someone with a good deal of mods on street tires.
In the end, I mod my car for ME, no one else, I like wrenching, & I like making things better with the compromises that the factory has to deal with. My EVO will stay mild, engine wise for some time, I would rather spend $6k on suspension & brakes, then more HP.
If you Auto-X again, put the strut bar on, it really helps with turn in, @ the expense of some understeer.
The EVO has a weak transmission? NOT! The EVO has an unbelivably strong trans/transfer case/driveline in it. We are running 8's with a stock trans/transfer case, driveshaft and rear differential. My white car and Daniel's red car that were featured in Turbo this month also are stock driveline. Daniels car has Stage 5 rear axles, mine is still running stock.
My car doesn't understeer without the front bar, it still oversteers considerably
Too much power.
knightracer, my RS was converted to E85/ethanol for about a week. The engine is making enough power that (4) 1650 cc injectors could not supply the car with enough fuel so I switched back to normal gasoline. My other car, the MR runs E85.
My car doesn't understeer without the front bar, it still oversteers considerably
Too much power.knightracer, my RS was converted to E85/ethanol for about a week. The engine is making enough power that (4) 1650 cc injectors could not supply the car with enough fuel so I switched back to normal gasoline. My other car, the MR runs E85.
Thanks Trevor. I agree but it's nice to be able to tune a car on the dyno and then take it to the track and have it be right.
We got another feature this month. Pick up DSport this month, has a full feature on Trent's car too!
We got another feature this month. Pick up DSport this month, has a full feature on Trent's car too!
Picked up the magazine a couple days ago. Very nice!! I remember your car at Winged Warrior. I seriously almost thought it was stock by just looking inside. All I saw was one boost gauge I believe. Then I heard your car on the AutoX.. and I knew it wasn't stock haha. Love the Buschur cars. Great job.
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