I am trying this tomorrow!! I really hope this fixes the problem! Thank you for the information!

 

Anything that taps into the ignition system, like turbo timers and alarms should always be suspected first. Turbo timers in my opinion, are a wate of money and tend to create more problems than they solve.

 

Another cause of this problem is due to high powered sound systems.

The factory alternator is only 90A. If one has a sound system upward of 1000w, that alone can draw enough current to use the entire alternator capacity, leaving no headroom to charge the battery. When running the car at night with headlights, high capacity fuel pump(s) and other loads, this can actually discharge the battery. I was left having to push-start the car one evening recently, and it wasn't until I put the numbers together that I realized what happened. At first I thought it was the ignition switch issue all over again, and then I realized it wasn't starting on account the battery was discharged!

A high capacity alternator has been made available, but I wouldn't advise it at the present due to many having failures:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...lternator.html

 

well after i did the ignition switch fix, I found another problem with the starter. i removed the starter took it to Napa and they tested and found it to be GOOD! but when i got home I decided to take the starter selinoid apart and VIOLA! the NOID was loaded with with sooty buildup that seemed to inhibit the started from actuation. I cleaned it all up and now it seems to work very well. Bust the 2 screws loose and the wire connecting the starter motor. you will see a piston/plunger and a spring thats inside. look inside the noid and make sure the button in the bottom is not overly hard to press in. If soo then clean it up! fixed my problem may fix yours.

 

Thanks for chiming in about the solenoid. I was under the car today and removed mine to have a look. I didn't see any sooty residue, but the button at the bottom darn sure isn't easy to press. Did you see buildup in yours, or was it apparent only when you cleaned it? How exactly did you clean it, by spraying contact cleaner inside, or ... ?

 

i tried this fix and it helped a little but it kept doing it more and more, I ended up buying the OEM ignition switch from STM for $70 shipped and bought a new Pc680 since my battery was bad and I havent had this problem ever since.

 

this is a very informative thread

 

The problems for many often begin with the slightest rotation of the ignition switch in the direction of the turning key. This prevents the car from starting reliably, and repeated start attempts take a toll on the ignition switch and solenoid.

The first thing to do when this happens is fix the starter switch from rotating again, which is easily done by looping a plastic wire tie around its electrical socket and the steering column (see attached image). This keeps positive pressure against the switch counter to the direction of the turning key.

If the switch, wiring, and starter relay all check out, and the solenoid gives a single loud 'click', but with no starter action, this indicates the solenoid is getting the trigger, but it is not being activated fully enough to engage the starter contact. A quick way to confirm this is to pop the starter relay and jump the solenoid trigger terminal straight to battery. Chances are it will crank right over with that extra current. This is my situation presently, and onefastevo9's account suggests this indicates the solenoid is dirty or bad. The internal button inside mine is definitely hard to depress, which seems to be a telltale sign that explains why only direct battery current can engage it fully.

 

Holy crap! I have had this problem for years. Literally, years. I tried all sorts of troubleshooting, but since the problem is so intermittent, I never figured it out, the car would just start after a few attempts! I tried everything from jumping the relay, to pushing the car in gear to turn the crank a few degrees. Thank you so much!!!!!

 

To conclude my own experience, after I found a permanent fix (plastic wire tie) for the starter switch slippage, I had a lingering issue that I traced down to the solenoid. The solenoid was functioning, but not fully. It would only engage the starter contact using a direct, high current jumper to the battery.

I ordered a new solenoid from Autozone and installed it. I noticed that the plunger was slightly easier to actuate than the old one, but that isn't the only difference I noticed (see attached photo).

The new solenoid was shorter, which is a strong indication that the old solenoid (which was installed by a shop long ago) was the incorrect part. To further that thought, I wondered why that shop had to bend the thin steel cover away from the solenoid terminals. It wasn't because the factory design was a little tight, it was because the wrong part was in the car. I should have recognized this as too strange to ignore.

Anyway, my starting troubles are finally over.

 

Thanks for the info

 

When you had this lingering issue with the solenoid, would it start the car sometimes, and other times just click but not crank?

 

With the incorrect solenoid on my car, it would click every time. If your solenoid clicks every time without turning the starter, that indicates either a bad solenoid, starter, or battery/ground connection to the starter. If the solenoid does not click, then it could still be the solenoid, but may be the starter relay, or a starter switch slippage issue as described in this discussion.

 

Hello!

Great information on here. I was wondering if anyone has the dimensions of the one screw that holds the electrical socket to the steering column? I seem to have misplaced mine.

Thanks!

 

Omg iv literally tried to trace this problem for the past two years!! Tightened that screw and solved my problem!!! Thank you soooooo much!!!