Throttle body air leak...Pics inside with how to fix!!!
Dec 29, 2012, 01:02 AM
#289
Evolved Member
I got a bit ahead of myself and grabbed some mil.spec TB shaft seals to do this. Did a boost leak test - 35 psi no leaks with original '03 TB seals. Shocked. At least I have them as spares anyway.
Aug 4, 2013, 12:33 PM
#291
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Mil.spec and STM have them for sure. I ruined one of the first ones and had to reorder another set. This next time I believe I am going to try to use the throttle body shaft as a guide. I tried to do it free hand and mangled the metal part of the seal on the TPS side that is recessed. The seal that went in well by throttle cable just tapped in gently and it worked much better.
Mar 26, 2015, 10:03 PM
#295
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very helpful info. replaced shaft seals with some works seals, but i had such a hard time getting them in I bent them to **** but it was all I had and now I have a pretty big boost leak and my bov is broken lol. Just ordered some mil-spec seals more than one set lol. hopefully I'll get them in right
Mar 27, 2015, 08:43 AM
#296
very helpful info. replaced shaft seals with some works seals, but i had such a hard time getting them in I bent them to **** but it was all I had and now I have a pretty big boost leak and my bov is broken lol. Just ordered some mil-spec seals more than one set lol. hopefully I'll get them in right
i had to use a flat head screw driver to get it seated perfect all the way around.
Mar 1, 2016, 12:26 AM
#297
I am putting this info together because I had to install some seals for a friend and I found it difficult because I had forgot how to do it. After I got an email back from Aby and doing some trial and error on my own this is what I would think would work best when trying to install the seals.
This is what I had after I followed his advice.
Note: I found that the Mil.spec seals are slightly different. One has a chamfer and the other does not. I put the chamfered Mil.spec seal on the TPS side of the Throttle Body.
Frist I put the seals in the freezer for a couple hours to shrink them. Then I lubed the seals up with di-electric silicone grease. The M10 bolt perfectly centers the seal around the hole. The bolt doesn't allow the seal to move.
Slid the seal to meet the head of the bolt.
Then tap the seals in one at a time on both sides. I used a rubber mallet to hit them in.
This works on the same principle as the method I describe.
Sort of the same but a little riskier.
Originally Posted by aby@mil.spec
I suggest to go buy a 10mm shcs / socket head cap screw bolt that is ~75mm long for example, use a hacksaw or other cutting device to cut the threaded part of the bolt off.
now your left with a smooth 10mm shaft that you slide the seal onto it, up to the head of the bolt & stick that shaft into the bearing / seal bore & pound the head of the bolt forcing / guiding the seal into place.
another option is to locating a socket that fits over the steel part of the seal & use that to help guide you while pounding the seal in.
now your left with a smooth 10mm shaft that you slide the seal onto it, up to the head of the bolt & stick that shaft into the bearing / seal bore & pound the head of the bolt forcing / guiding the seal into place.
another option is to locating a socket that fits over the steel part of the seal & use that to help guide you while pounding the seal in.
Note: I found that the Mil.spec seals are slightly different. One has a chamfer and the other does not. I put the chamfered Mil.spec seal on the TPS side of the Throttle Body.
Frist I put the seals in the freezer for a couple hours to shrink them. Then I lubed the seals up with di-electric silicone grease. The M10 bolt perfectly centers the seal around the hole. The bolt doesn't allow the seal to move.
Slid the seal to meet the head of the bolt.
Then tap the seals in one at a time on both sides. I used a rubber mallet to hit them in.
i used a bit of grease. i gently and slowly tapped in the side where the throttle cable goes first. once that was in, i put the shaft through, put the other seal in, then covered it with the metal washer that came off that same side. i used a deep socket that fit over the whole thing and gently/slowly tapped that one it.
i had to use a flat head screw driver to get it seated perfect all the way around.
i had to use a flat head screw driver to get it seated perfect all the way around.
Last edited by deylag; Mar 1, 2016 at 12:37 AM.
May 5, 2016, 10:57 PM
#298
Evolving Member
That pump is crazy! I'm gonna make one tomorrow
Dec 19, 2020, 10:57 PM
#299
SUPER LATE here but I noticed that the white plastic washer (once tps is removed) was pretty hard to remove without damaging. For anyone doing the seal themselves in the future, it helped to use needle-nose pliers to bite/hold more area of the white washer rather than something like a flathead which could damage or break the washer completely.
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