I've been wanting to do this, I have the Works seals waiting to be put in. Is this grease okay to use to lubricate and put in the seals? Mine doesnt say premium but it I believe its the pretty much the same.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...rtId=prod63288

 

You can use KY jelly. It is water based so it wont corrode the seals overtime. Otherwise you can also use dielectric grease.

 

It was my understanding that you lube the area that the seal goes into, not the seal itself. Just to help insert the new seal into the throttle body.

 

Can someone please throw me a bone on removing the throttle position sensor TPS? I may just be tired from removing my manifold, turbo, downpipe, radiator, etc etc but I can't seem to get this effer off. Even on the How-To FAQ it says to break it part of it instead of trying to get the metal clip off, but I can't tell from the picture really where to break it or how to break it and at this point i feel like I'm going to break the entire thing. My couldnt Mitsu just put a regular friggin connector on it (push down with thumb and pull!!)

 

two screws and it comes off.. no need to yank anything. its just a coil so it moves left and right in a circular motion. make sure you mark where its at now so you put it back where it was or it will read inaccurate TP.

 

I'm guessing you are referring to the clip that holds the plug on. It is a U shaped clip so if you use a tiny screw driver to push on the 'tips of the U' then it will come out. You could practice on the MAP sensor if you wanted. It's the same type.

 

I ended up taking the entire TPS off of the throttle body by taking the 7mm bolts out. I know the factory setting is all jacked up now but I'm pretty sure when I send it in to MilSpec they set it all up for me (hopefully). I was then able to take the U shaped pin off easily and didn't break anything. Hopefully it goes back on easy too

 

yeah ur site seems to be down now that it's a few years. Could you please update the links?

 

Great thread thank you!

 

im lost on this i have done everything and i think it was a miss type on the last part


10. Put a little blue locktite on the thread of the Butterfly valve screws. Screw in the plate and you're done. If you installed it correctly, the top of the butterfly valve should open inward to the Intake Manifold side.

the top of the butterfly plate should be moving outwards right? the bottom should be heading inwards.

 

LOL! it can only go one way man..... come on now!

 

Great writeup - those seals are tough little suckers to get out!

 

What do you think the average install/swap out time is for these?

 

I just did mine and it took me about 4 hours total, a lot of it was trying to get that damn ring clip off under the tps. Hopefully these last a while cause I definitely don't want to have to do this again next week lol.


Question, did anyone else experience their idle changing? I did hashmark the tb and tps so I made sure everything aligned properly but my idle went from about 850 up to 1000. I'm not sure if its because I finally have no boost leaks or if its because somehow my tps isn't exactly back on perfectly?

 

The Mil.Spec seals definitely require some force to press into place. A 3/8" dia x 6" long hex bolt cut to a shank length of 3 5/8" makes a great guide to tap the seals in straight.

As far as what grease to use, natural rubber and EPDM are incompatible with petroleum greases. I wouldn't expect any seals destined to be used on an automobile engine to be made from either of these materials. Viton (material of choice for high performance rubber seals) and buna-n (most common material used for rubber seals) are compatible with both silicone grease or petroleum greases.