i have done these seals twice now. 1st time went great, but then went with ported intake and 65mm tb. tried to put new seals in that, and resulted in the throttle plate getting stuck. got a new TB and was good to go, no leaks. day of my most recent tune i pressure tested and there were no leaks. tuned and made 424. i started to knock a bit recently so i pressure tested and the seals are leaking with anything over 2-3 psi.

is this shaft seal leak enough to cause a significant difference? i pressure tested my car because it felt alot slower. i know boost leaks can really make a car sluggish, but does the shaft seal still leak with the throttle plate opened? i would imagine so since the system is pressurized during the test with the plate closed, and when you get on boost, the plate is opened, but the system is still pressurized.

 

I installed by WORKS ones in under 45 minutes from start to finish. It was very straight forward and when I pressure tested it again the leak was gone......

I ordered both the WORKS ones and the SKF 3930 (Chicago Rawhide) at the same time. I ended up installing the WORKS ones.

I have a pair of the 3930 ones from Chicago Rawhide if anyone needs them. I think I paid about $20.00.......yours brand new for $20.00 mailed to your house. They where a pain in the butt to get from NAPA.

Matt

 

Bank227 did you ever get this taken care of? Did the dealer cover it under warranty? I need to take care of mine and still have time on my warranty.

 

all this great great info. I have done my boost leak test a few times and found and fixed leaks along the way. I have seen people pressurize from the Throttle body and plug the UICP and I have seen people go from the Turbo inlet. I always get a hiss/buzz leak at higher boost from a relief hole in my FORGE MBC when testing. I would love to see a step by step how to, including what to cap where to pressurize from. If I have just missed it and it is already posted someone link it. THANKS

 

Thankx for this how-to. I just finished my seals up. Didnt take near as long as i thought it would. Full pressure up to 26psi now!!!! Thankx!!!

 

guys - thread revival.

do you think "white lithium grease" is fine for lubing up the replacement seals

 

I have done a bnch of these and have used "engine builders grease" basically it's white lithium grease. People say don't use petroleum based lube but it's fine in my opinion. Never had any problems. Even the guys at Works said they use it without a problem.

 

I just wanted to put this here in effort to save someone from
destroying their seals trying to pound them in. they will go
in right away with this method damage free.

 

you can use a 10mm socket to put it through as well.

i think its easiest to put a short extension on the 10mm socket and tap it in with something

 

ya once you get it seated properly you use a short extention, like the bottom here http://www.fjrowners.ws/discus/messages/9/17489.jpg even shorter tho and smaller, so it fits through the middle of the seal and you can put even pressure on it and not f' it up. the screw driver things the best tho, because it puts even pressure no matter how you do it.

 

I followed nigletsyz guide and it is absolutely fantastic and I appreaciate the write up.

My only addition which may help some would be to unhook the first coolant hose on the bottom and take the tougher one off when you actually have the TB unbolted. It was easier for me to reach the clamps that way.

Thanks again, you revived my 81K mile Evo

 

Yep... thats the easiest way i found it...

 

Thanks for this detailed how to! I figure since almost all evo's have this leak I minds well replace my seals also. Hopefully everything will go smoothly.

 

Need a little help. I guess I didn't lube the seals up that much and the gas pedal seems to be a little bit more stiff and also a little hint of rev hang. Do you think the throttle body butterfly shaft and the seal will "break in" and become normal again? Sounds like the shaft is getting some friction from the new seals.

Also I made a mistake of not marking the TPS position and now I can only get my idle to around 1000-990rpm, not back to ~750rpm. Is that something I can fiddle with and see if it gets back or is that idle okay to run for now. I'll probably get a tune in a couple months so can the tuner fix the idle then?

By the way, max boost holds really strong now and doesn't taper as much which leads me to believe the boost leak is gone. I'll do a real boost leak test again to make sure.

 

Did you make sure that the plate isn't hitting or scraping the sides when you open/close the throttle?