Throttle body air leak...Pics inside with how to fix!!!
Not sure if this would help, but I came across it so I thought I would share the info
http://www.worksevo.com/store/produc...roducts_id=415
Duncan
http://www.worksevo.com/store/produc...roducts_id=415
Duncan
My evo stalls when left to idle ever since I took off my plastic BOV and install the metal MR BOV so I figure I have a air leak.
I would like to do a pressure test of the whole system (from the turbo) and I have read about using a plastic cap with a tire valve connected to the turbo inlet, my question is what size cap do you use?
What I have found on the forums says to use a 1.5" ID cap but that is too small, I went back to Home Depot and it seems like a cap just over 2" would be best BUT the next size up is 3" (too big)
I have a 20G-LT
Any help would be great!
I would like to do a pressure test of the whole system (from the turbo) and I have read about using a plastic cap with a tire valve connected to the turbo inlet, my question is what size cap do you use?
What I have found on the forums says to use a 1.5" ID cap but that is too small, I went back to Home Depot and it seems like a cap just over 2" would be best BUT the next size up is 3" (too big)
I have a 20G-LT
Any help would be great!
My evo stalls when left to idle ever since I took off my plastic BOV and install the metal MR BOV so I figure I have a air leak.
I would like to do a pressure test of the whole system (from the turbo) and I have read about using a plastic cap with a tire valve connected to the turbo inlet, my question is what size cap do you use?
What I have found on the forums says to use a 1.5" ID cap but that is too small, I went back to Home Depot and it seems like a cap just over 2" would be best BUT the next size up is 3" (too big)
I have a 20G-LT
Any help would be great!
I would like to do a pressure test of the whole system (from the turbo) and I have read about using a plastic cap with a tire valve connected to the turbo inlet, my question is what size cap do you use?
What I have found on the forums says to use a 1.5" ID cap but that is too small, I went back to Home Depot and it seems like a cap just over 2" would be best BUT the next size up is 3" (too big)
I have a 20G-LT
Any help would be great!

I assume that your turbo has the same OD than stock turbo.
Not sure if this would help, but I came across it so I thought I would share the info
http://www.worksevo.com/store/produc...roducts_id=415
Duncan
http://www.worksevo.com/store/produc...roducts_id=415
Duncan
Not sure if this would help, but I came across it so I thought I would share the info
http://www.worksevo.com/store/produc...roducts_id=415
Duncan
http://www.worksevo.com/store/produc...roducts_id=415
Duncan
.
My car is down 2-3psi and about 30hp. I pressure tested the intake and I found the culprit. My car is a 2005 with only 26k miles on it. I'll be ordering the Works part shortly.
-Jon
-Jon
Difficult to say. Probably lag more important, loss of power but since it's coming slowly your don't feel it. That's why people recommend to check leaks once a while.
For the TB, one of the easiest way to predict the seal failure is to move the butterfly with your hand. A bad seal will make your BF not smooth to operate. A leak test will confirm it
For the TB, one of the easiest way to predict the seal failure is to move the butterfly with your hand. A bad seal will make your BF not smooth to operate. A leak test will confirm it
A common phenomenom with a MAF based car is overfueling and stumbling due to the loss of air. The car meters the amount of air to fuel for. The car still fuels for the air that escapes and it can be a little too much or a lot too much fuel.
My car is currently dumping in fuel. Where my tune is set to 11.2-11.0 AFR, it is running 10.4-10.2. Timing is also being pulling at both 4000rpm and 6500rpm. The car feels less snappy and it was verified to be down approximately 30whp on the dyno. Change boost targets had no affect on power or boost levels, again verified on the dyno. Spool, I believe, is about 300rpm slower with less of an initial boost spike.
-Jon
My car is currently dumping in fuel. Where my tune is set to 11.2-11.0 AFR, it is running 10.4-10.2. Timing is also being pulling at both 4000rpm and 6500rpm. The car feels less snappy and it was verified to be down approximately 30whp on the dyno. Change boost targets had no affect on power or boost levels, again verified on the dyno. Spool, I believe, is about 300rpm slower with less of an initial boost spike.
-Jon
The SKF brand oil seal, part number 3930, size 10x14x3 offered by NAPA is what I've been replacing leaking oem throttle body shaft seals with in cars that I see. None of those cars have had symptom one of a leak ever since. I replaced the seals on my car with those from Mach V and like you, have developed a substantial boost leak only allowing me to hold 19-20 psi as of last night. The seals I purchased from Mach V were brown and looked considerably different from the ones I have been using from napa. The napa seals also fit MUCH better. What color are the seals that you have received from Mach V?
Armed with the info in your post, I was hopeful to leave with some seals.
After a long search by several employees, we came up empty handed.
Can you remember what they looked under to find these parts ??? What application, what car ??? Anything will help.
But I was wondering how others have gotten seals from NAPA, when my NAPA guy looked at me like I was
growing a third arm out of the top of my head...






