9.5"s with 265 Direzza Z1*. -1.6* rear camber. Rolled rears flat, relocate rear bumper bolt needed, still need to pull them out a bit with the roller. Shouldn't be anything too major. Nils ran the same setup on his car except with Neovas, and Robi said he can set that up on stock fenders all day.

 

i have some 285/30-18 Hoosier R6s and i was wondering what would be the best rim, between $1,000-$1,500, for a stock body evo on KW v3s and +10 Seibon front fenders?

right now i'm thinking of getting Enkei RPF1s in 18x10 +38, is there anything else out there that wont destroy me financially :P

 

You've already found the answer. If you wanted, FN01RC, although I heard they're discontinued but they're all over the place used and are a little heavier. Don't forget your front spacers (~20mm) and if you don't already have the replacement fenders, just get the EvoDave spacer kit for your stock fenders. You may not even need them at all.

 

I agree... that wheel is perfect for what you want to do.

 

thanks for the reply guys. i'm already running a 20mm space on my NT03s, so i'm glad i don't need a new one

do i need to do any other modifications to the car, suspension wise, to run these tires?

also, what would be the optimal camber setting for these tires? i'm currently running 2.5*F/1.5*R

 

depends on roll stiffness (roll center... ride height... and geometry) Spring rates & bar rates and dampers to a small degree.

I run the whiteline kit with teh LCA parallel with the ground. 700# springs on DFV's with the OEM front ARB. Rear 850# springs on DFVs with 27mm bar set full stiff.

I run 3.6-3.8 degrees of camber up front and 2.0-2.4 degrees in the rear. I also run the TRE rear diff... so that will change what kind of camber you want to run in the rear.

 

Typically when you move to R-comps, you want stiffer spring rates.

I would run no less than 3.5 degrees up front with the hoosiers.

Right now my alignment is at about 4.0/2.4

 

i'm currently running RobiSpec v3 ClubSports with 8k/10k springs and the WhiteLine roll center kit and my rear fenders are rolled completely flat. so what kinda of camber should would be the best? 3.8*f/2.5*r?

 

I would keep it closer to 1.8-2.0 in the rear if you have a stock diff. Closer to 2.5 if it's upgraded. Front should be between 3.5 and 4.0

Those rates are a little on the soft side for Hoosiers, but you'll probably be okay.

 

i'm prob going to have Mikey aka D&M AutoSalon do the Wier diff upgrade for me with my 30K service

 

30k??? Damn. Sadly I just hit 65k (Bought the car 3 years ago w/ 20k)

 

are these going on this subi?

 

no, although they would fit easier. i dont need that much tire, its just a stage 2 wrx. the evo on the other hand.....

 

The second half of 2011 I tried some really big tires.

Year/Make/Model: 2003 Evo8 - Don Herring Mitsubishi autocross car
Wheels: 16x12 Bogart RR10 Racing Wheels, 6.75" backspace, with 1/4" front spacers
Tires: 23.5x11.5-16 Hoosier Road Race Bias Slick
Suspension: AST 5200
Alignment: -1.5f/-0.8r camber, 1/8" toe-out front & 1/4" toe-in rear
Fenders Rolled or Cut: Front - stock / Rear - rolled and pulled 1.5", front & rear tires stick out 2" past the bodywork, but they don't rub
Other Body modifications: Car weighs about 2250, but was ballasted up to 2500 for rules. For 2012, rules move F-Prepared Evos up another 200lbs, so I'm going back to 10" rims to save a 100lb wheel width penalty. Net will be 2600 for 2012 - 350lbs of ballast
Advice: These things provide a lot of grip, but make the car bigger negotiating the course. It takes some time to adjust to negotiating slaloms with tires that stick out well past the bodywork. They also don't heat up fast enough for autocross, unless you're running in 100 deg heat. I'm going back to 16x10" Bogarts with 10" Hoosier slicks for 2012.

Enjoy some pics of the fat look.

 

Thats a crazy set-up. Not sure how you kept them from rubbing. Also I guess they cleared the brembo's. Pretty cool none the less.