running 3 deg now up front. 2 in the rear.

gricev, you runing a fender spacer kit in the front?

Ps, i kept my fender liners in tact as well. only rubs at full lock

 

Did I get this right, that if I want to fit the 285/30/18 in the rear (Evo 9) on an Enkei RPF1 18x10 +38 I don't need the custom rear trailing links from RobiSpec.
I just have to roll the fender, relocate bumper bolt, and use a 3mm or 5mm spacer?

 

nope, but the fenders have been worked over with a hammer and repainted.

 

that is correct.

 

Thanks griceiv!

And with the 3mm spacer, is there enough space to the OEM rear trailing arm/link, when there is some tire deflection during an autocross run or road racing (with the 285/30/18).
Or is it safer to go with a 5mm spacer and pull the rear fender a little?

 

looks like i picked the wrong tire size. 285/30's look like dramatically less work.

 

depends? alignment settings, tire pressures and different tires make a difference. But it's workable.

a 3mm spacer on those wheels would be the same inner spacing i have with the 10.5's. i don't get hardly any tire rub but they're also stretched a bit more. depending on how far you go with the fenders and alignment/ride height you can space out even more than 5mm.

 

Good News! I will start with a 5mm spacer because I already have them and I want to be on the safe side regarding tire rub...

Just curious, with which configuration do you really need the custom trailing links?

 

depends?? it's all about tire pressures, alignment, and how much you want to do to the fenders/wide body.

I don't think i could go any further inboard than where I am now with out different trailing arms. maybe if i ran some more toe out I could...

 

the 18x10 +38's won't fit the stock trailing arms without spacers.

a 5mm would be better than a 3mm to reduce the amount of rubber you put on your trailing links.

I ran the 18x10 +38's without a spacer, with the offset trailing lings.

HERE'S WHAT YOU NEED TO THINK ABOUT.
Your tires in the rear only deflect INBOARD, not outboard. So you need clearance inboard to let the tire "squirm" as marshall and I refer to it. If you run 36-38psi hot in your Hoosier A/R 6's and you're generating a reasonable about of lateral force you can deflect the tire about 15+mm! Of course the 10" deflects less...and the 10.5" less again, but it does shift on the wheel. 3mm of clearances is peanuts. You'll have tire smoke coming out the back of your Evo.

 

O.K., so to have really enough clearance on the rear without rubbing the trailing arm during racing, you need a minimum clearance of 10mm (no tire smoke ;-)) for a 285/30/18 on the RPF1 18x10 +38.
That means a 10mm spacer and massive fender pulling or going with custom trailing links.

And if I go with custom trailing links, my biggest concern is, are they as robust and durable (material fatigue) like the OEM trailing arms?

BTW, besides RobiSpec are there other manufacturers/vendors of custom trailing links?

 

well or you let them rub a little bit...

as long as the wheel isn't grinding into the arm, tires are gonna wear out anyway.

 

I think I would try the 5mm spacer as they are cheap. And if you actually rub and it bothers you.. buy the trailing links and run no spacer.

I make the ones that Robi sells. They are overbuilt, chromoly, backpurged, and very nicely tig welded.

 

Just slapped on my 18X10's +38's with the 245/40/18 Hankook RS3, and all I got to say is WOW that rim is close to the trailing arm!!! I will be putting on a 3mm or 5mm to add some clearance because that's just crazy close. I'm running a 25mm spacer up front as well because that's the largest spacer I had laying around besides a 10mm.

Here's a pic of the car looks though, looks pretty trick IMO Robi fully set up the car, as far as alignment and corner balancing goes. I do wish the car was a tad bit higher because it's damn low

 

Damn Ben those 245s look pretty damn good LOL