you gonna make it to the SD tour this year?

 

I saw your car at SEMA this year bigboybusa! It looks very nice. I like the really wide tires it made me happy.

 

I guess i don't turn my wheels.........

 

Ill be there to help out but not going to run.

 

I'll be at SD too! Unfortunately, my Evo decided it didn't want to go this past weekend (shock broke), but I'll be driving an STX car instead.

 

Allright, read through this whole thread more than once. Too much information spread amongst the pages.

Simply put, I want to move to 275 width Hoosiers (R6/A6) to get the most out of the NASA TTS rules (255-275 all the same). I have coilovers (JIC FLT-A2) 3 deg Camber front, 1.5 rear. I don't mind rolling fenders, modding fender liners. I don't like spacers and would like to keep them minimal.

So say in an Enkie PF01/NT03/RPF, what gets me the best fit? 18x9.5 +35?

 

You're good, @ +35 with front spacers 10-15 mm, maybe a rear 3-5mm spacer.

 

Why are the spacers required? Brake clearance? Rear Trailing arm clearance?

I am looking at installing either the Perrin PSRS or Whiteline ALK to add Caster and this will move the wheel forward a bit, does this help? I gather from the other discussions in this thread that it may.

 

even the +27 NT03's have caliper clearance issues in the front (typically need a 10mm spacer). I'm guessing the RPF1 and PF01 have the same problem with the higher offset.

 

ive heard of a few people running 18x10 rpf1's with +15 in the front and +35 rears. without spacers. but you will have some serious rolling

 

depending on tire size, that sounds like rub city in the front.

 

Don't run the 255 Hoosier. They don't hold enough weight formour fat cars. You will chord them FAST!!! Ask me how I know!

 

Jim,
18x10 +38 RPF1 would be the best fit wheel for those tires. No spacer in the rear and 20mm up front (maybe a 15mm would work) I used a 20mm spacer. The reason I say they're the best fit is that 275 is going to squirm on a 9.5" wheel. a 9.5" will also allow the tire to squirm and rub on things... like your trailing arms. it'll make some good tire smoke. Running a 10" wheel helps prevent that. You may need to run a 5mm spacer in the rear to help with trailing arm clearance. Trim the e-brake bracket so it doesn't eat into your tire and grind down the casting flash on the trailing link to help.

You need spacers in the front to clear the brembos. Only reason. I run the same offset on all four to allow tire rotation.

Adding the PSRS will help move the wheel forward away from the pinch weld that rubs badly...and also away from the side skirt which also rubs. Then you can use a camber/caster plate to pull the wheel/tire back and set it where it rubs the least. It will help you prevent rubbing. But you need both, not one/or the other...both.

You could run a 9.5" wheel, but meh... why do that when you can run a 10"??? If you ran a 9.5"... you could get the RPF1 or the NT03 in the +38 and then you'd need a 25mm spacer up front to clear the caliper. No spacer in the rear (maybe 5mm to prevent rubber deposits on your trailing arms...from excess tire squirm)

I hope that helps Jim.

 

Indeed it does. Clears up a great number of questions. Understand on the 10" rims.

So front spacers are mainly for caliper clearence. I have the AP racing BBK which is actually a little smaller caliper. Wondering of the spoke design of the PF01 (curved) gives a little better caliper clearence.

And spacers in the rear as needed to clear the trailing arm. Obvously some fender rolling needed in the rear.

And my JIC's have Camber adjustment plates, but who makes a Camber/Caster combo plate?

 

why is that? will the psrs make it rub in the front of the wheel well too much? looking at it, its really easy to make more room in the front of the wheels, id rather do that than mess with the skirts and pinch welds.