Single best handling modification CT9A.
+1 on driver mod. for a couple hundred you can grab a rear swaybar to help with the understeer, a little, but it still wont give you precise rear end control... or for a couple more ($400)pick up a shepp 12 plate diff. i have one on order and hear only good things about them, enough to convince me to get one. I run stock suspension except an adjustable rear swaybar and am told i wont need it with the faster/harder locking diff. there are several important sections of track(esp lower speed sharper turns) where improvement is made just from the ability to get the rear wheels out on command, and after driving RWD before this fora couple years I know being able to kick out and control the rear can improve some major times on track. nobody liked barreling through slowly in a turn, you can only get away with some advanced techniques a few times before you overdrive the tires. having some more throttle control in the rear can make the world of a difference. so if were talking strictly on car mods to a stock evo? rear diff. best bang for the buck IMO. todd earsley who runs nasa(lol i may have got his name wrong) in his evo dynamics built ttc car said its the best thing he could've done and still stay in his class(basically stock but with cage). he reported a major difference in lap times on a couple tracks last time we talked. i'm sold on it. in fact, my buddies sti had a tq selection from f-r that made the rear kick out on command and i was in love with it. i cant wait to get mine(diff)
I agree that sway bars, bushings, and a 12plate or stacked rear diff all help, but none of those will keep the chassis settled and the tires on the ground like a good set of shocks. On all the cars I've modded that has always made the biggest difference by far. I don't mean some cheap off the shelf coilover either, something that is valved and sprung to fit your needs will work like a dream. I currently have a custom valved and sprung Ohlins that give a good ride even with high spring rates. There are plenty of places you can buy built shocks from here. Dont settle for off the shelf, beleive me on this on, I've spent more money on suspension setups for.different cars than my EVO is worth twice over.
I agree that sway bars, bushings, and a 12plate or stacked rear diff all help, but none of those will keep the chassis settled and the tires on the ground like a good set of shocks. On all the cars I've modded that has always made the biggest difference by far. I don't mean some cheap off the shelf coilover either, something that is valved and sprung to fit your needs will work like a dream. I currently have a custom valved and sprung Ohlins that give a good ride even with high spring rates. There are plenty of places you can buy built shocks from here. Dont settle for off the shelf, beleive me on this on, I've spent more money on suspension setups for.different cars than my EVO is worth twice over.
I always thought buying Ohlins would be near one of the best, but the thought of getting a customized one built seems better from your opinion...but I worry my lack of knowledge will lead me to order and build the wrong one...
Assuming you guys are talking about the R&T series ohlins, they really don't need revalving until you start pushing 14+k springs. Theres plenty of range of adjustment in the valving already, and its setup so nicely. Why mess with it unless your spring rates demand it.
The shep 12plate rear diff is awesome in the snow btw. I can bring the rear end around at any time I want with the gas and I can control it to each degree of rotation. Its absolutely predictable at all times. Unlike the stock diff which I felt it was hard to get to rotate, and when it did it let go big time. I used to put my ACD in gravel and in sometimes even snow mode because of how wild it got when the stock rear diff let go. Now I keep it in tarmac all the time because of how predictable it is. Can't wait for the track season to start up again to test it out. And if you use diaqueen lsd with no additives it doesn't make any weird sounds under any condition.
The shep 12plate rear diff is awesome in the snow btw. I can bring the rear end around at any time I want with the gas and I can control it to each degree of rotation. Its absolutely predictable at all times. Unlike the stock diff which I felt it was hard to get to rotate, and when it did it let go big time. I used to put my ACD in gravel and in sometimes even snow mode because of how wild it got when the stock rear diff let go. Now I keep it in tarmac all the time because of how predictable it is. Can't wait for the track season to start up again to test it out. And if you use diaqueen lsd with no additives it doesn't make any weird sounds under any condition.
Last edited by deeman101; Mar 7, 2012 at 09:15 AM.
Tires; plain and simple. Period. The biggest stickiest ones you can fit will drop your laptimes the most.
Next up would be Coilovers, next would be rear diff update.
Now that I've said that; I don't recommend a weekend warrior go out and buy $1300 worth of Hoosiers to burn up just running laps. It's also not the best way to learn your car or progress your skillset.
Next up would be Coilovers, next would be rear diff update.
Now that I've said that; I don't recommend a weekend warrior go out and buy $1300 worth of Hoosiers to burn up just running laps. It's also not the best way to learn your car or progress your skillset.
You can find the write up here---very good BTW.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...al-diff-2.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...al-diff-2.html
Exactly! Coilovers, swaybars, rear diff, etc all contact the road through the tires!
Tires; plain and simple. Period. The biggest stickiest ones you can fit will drop your laptimes the most.
Next up would be Coilovers, next would be rear diff update.
Now that I've said that; I don't recommend a weekend warrior go out and buy $1300 worth of Hoosiers to burn up just running laps. It's also not the best way to learn your car or progress your skillset.
Next up would be Coilovers, next would be rear diff update.
Now that I've said that; I don't recommend a weekend warrior go out and buy $1300 worth of Hoosiers to burn up just running laps. It's also not the best way to learn your car or progress your skillset.
OP--sorry for the side conversation--
FJF-- I saw in an earlier post of yours that you had a few years under your belt! I try and respect that. I have been building and moding cars myself for more years then most--too many years. The over 40 thread sounds like a good idea just for the simple fact that experience would hopefully rise to the top of the conversation instead of sinking to the bottom behind opinion. (this statement is unrelated to this thread) Let me know if you decide to move forward!
FJF-- I saw in an earlier post of yours that you had a few years under your belt! I try and respect that. I have been building and moding cars myself for more years then most--too many years. The over 40 thread sounds like a good idea just for the simple fact that experience would hopefully rise to the top of the conversation instead of sinking to the bottom behind opinion. (this statement is unrelated to this thread) Let me know if you decide to move forward!
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...rear-diff.html
Another thing in handling, that has yet to be mentioned, are fender braces.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MITSUBISHI-E...41456382504180
A small review on fender braces (not the exact same brand but it does the same thing).
http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...ke-system.aspx
Last edited by Piro Fyre; Mar 8, 2012 at 07:38 PM.
QUALITY dampers withe the CORRECT spring and damping rates for your use and alignment. that means no crappy asian pogo stick coilovers with backwards spring rates that are all too common.






