ECUFlash 1.40 is out!!!
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From: Kanagawa, Japan
SM5237 = JDM SST
SM5268 = USDM 5MT
SM5304 = EDM 5MT???
Each have at least 2 variants of the same ROM ID
Oh and SM5455 = 2009 JDM SST
Last edited by SiC; Nov 6, 2008 at 04:29 AM.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
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From: Kanagawa, Japan
There are at least 2 variants for each ROM ID. SM5268, which is the USDM 5MT ROM also has at least 2 variants. If you have the XML for SM5268, it will only work with ONE of the variants. If you have a different variant, then you will need a different XML for it.
The problem is that ECUFlash identifies the ROM by it's ID which is SM5268. So even if you have a different variant #1 or #2, ECUFlash only sees it as "SM5268" and it will load the SM5268 XML. I believe that ECUFlash will have to identify the ROM from a different source instead of the ROM ID for the EvoX.
Last edited by SiC; Nov 6, 2008 at 04:30 AM.
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From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
Dam, when was this "set back" found? I guess EvoScan isn't just a few days or a week or so away then from public release... The wait is killing me! And my cable is waiting to be used....it's taunting me!
I have my own ways to go around this .. so it was never a problem.. if you guys have this issue .. you can send the ROM to me .. or Mrfred ..
And the main problem is the XML will be catered to your rom variant only .. so you can't view other people of different variant.. then again .. unless you're razorlab .. it's also not an issue

I've started on the how-tos for people like you
DO invest in a good set of tuning tools and I guarantee you .. the satisfaction of tuning your own 300whp evo is priceless
So we still don't have an XML for the USDM SST, (or my CDN SST :-P). Is there a Canadian tuner that is working on the flash right now? I'll gladly submit my car for testing, and I can also help in the "decoding/reverse engineering".
verkion
verkion
Its not a setback
I have my own ways to go around this .. so it was never a problem.. if you guys have this issue .. you can send the ROM to me .. or Mrfred ..
And the main problem is the XML will be catered to your rom variant only .. so you can't view other people of different variant.. then again .. unless you're razorlab .. it's also not an issue
I've started on the how-tos for people like you
DO invest in a good set of tuning tools and I guarantee you .. the satisfaction of tuning your own 300whp evo is priceless
I have my own ways to go around this .. so it was never a problem.. if you guys have this issue .. you can send the ROM to me .. or Mrfred ..
And the main problem is the XML will be catered to your rom variant only .. so you can't view other people of different variant.. then again .. unless you're razorlab .. it's also not an issue

I've started on the how-tos for people like you
DO invest in a good set of tuning tools and I guarantee you .. the satisfaction of tuning your own 300whp evo is priceless
Im sorry
Its not a setback
I have my own ways to go around this .. so it was never a problem.. if you guys have this issue .. you can send the ROM to me .. or Mrfred ..
And the main problem is the XML will be catered to your rom variant only .. so you can't view other people of different variant.. then again .. unless you're razorlab .. it's also not an issue
I've started on the how-tos for people like you
DO invest in a good set of tuning tools and I guarantee you .. the satisfaction of tuning your own 300whp evo is priceless
I have my own ways to go around this .. so it was never a problem.. if you guys have this issue .. you can send the ROM to me .. or Mrfred ..
And the main problem is the XML will be catered to your rom variant only .. so you can't view other people of different variant.. then again .. unless you're razorlab .. it's also not an issue

I've started on the how-tos for people like you
DO invest in a good set of tuning tools and I guarantee you .. the satisfaction of tuning your own 300whp evo is priceless
and what exactly do you call a good set of tuning tools??(for us newbies down in NZ)
Here you go my friend: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=302895
If you have PASSION and TIME, then the next step is to get the best possible equipment that you can afford. So what will you need?
1. Laptop: You must have a laptop. Modern tuning is all about computers. W/O a laptop, it is very hard to tune accurately with consistent repetitive results. There are many cheap used laptops on ebay. Make sure that you get one that is powerful enough for your tuning needs. I also recommend that you get a small laptop with a small screen. Mine is bulky and has a 14.xx inch screen. I am now in the market for a very small 7 inch mobile computer.
2. Logging hardware: You will need a logging/flashing hardware cable. The one that all of us currently use is the Tactrix Cable (http://www.tactrix.com). You can either get a universal cable or an Evo specific cable. The former will work on Evo and non-Evo vehicles, the latter will only work on Evos. I have one of each. One stays in my Evo and the other stays in my tuning kit.
3. Wideband O2 meter (WBO2): Do not attempt to tune your Evo if you do not have a WBO2 meter. Do not use the narrowband O2 sensor on the Evo to tune the car. The NBO2 was not intended for tuning purposes. It is used for emissions and it is only accurate under stoichometeric conditions and even then it is barely accurate. Tuning with a NBO2 was used back in the DSM days when WBO2 were very expensive and no one could afford them. Today, you can get a WBO2 meter for as little as $180. I use Innovate products. I have an LM-1/LM-A2 with two XD-1 gauges. One gauge reads AFR and the other gauge reads boost. The cost was $750. It was worth every penny. I have had zero problems with this kit.
4. Logging Software: The most widely used logging software is Evoscan (http://www.limitless.co.nz/EvoScan). It uses the tactrix cable to log data from your ECU port. It also allows you to integrate data from your WBO2 with the data from your ECU port. It costs $25. It is a one time fee that entitles you to later updates of the software. It is very user friendly and easy to set-up. If you want free software, then try Mitsulogger from the aktivematrix web site.
5. Tuning Software: The tuning software is known as Ecuflash. It is for free and you can download it from http://www.openecu.org. Be aware that some recent versions of the software have bugs in them and might not work on your lap top. I am still using version 1.29a because I do not want to deal with the possible bugs in later versions.
So now that you have all the equipment and tools, what do you do next?
First, you must install the WBO2 properly on your Evo. DO NOT install the WBO2 sensor behind the Catalytic Converter. That will give you erroneous AFR readings. The best position to place the sensor is in the down pipe 2 inches before the flange in the three o’clock position on the passenger side. Do not place the sensor in any position below three o’clock. You do not want condensation to form on the sensor and destroy the sensor.
Second, you have to go out and log data from your Evo. You must log, log, and log some more. Since I live in an urban area, flat freeway on ramp work great for me. Log in 3rd gear. Do WOT runs from 2500 rpm all the way to 7500 rpm. Only log the essential data with Evoscan. Logging all the data from your ECU will slow your logger down. The essentials include: AFR, timing, 2 byte load or loadcalc, TPS, RPM, Knock, boost (if possible), coolant temp, IAT, injector pulse width, and injector duty cycle. You must study and understand what the data means.
Third, download the rom image from your ECU using the tactrix cable and Ecuflash. Save the image to your lap top. Make sure the you write the immobilizer code in your rom on a piece of paper and save it. Understand what the tables in the rom mean. Do not touch them or modify them until you understand what they mean.
Fourth, now that you have read a whole ton and logged your Evo, you can proceed to modify the tables in your rom. The most important advice I could give you is to work INCREMENTALLY. Make small changes to the tables. For example, in the high octane fuel table lean out the map by making changes of no more than 0.3-0.4 target AFR. Do not go too aggressive in your changes. Another important piece of advice is to make the changes SMOOTH between cells. Recently, I saw a map that had the target AFR jump from 10.9, to 9.4 in two adjacent cells in the fuel map. This same map had a timing jump from 9* to 13* from 6500 to 7000 rpm. . The lack of smoothness in the map transition will more than likely trigger knock. A 4* jump from one load cell to the next will more than likely trigger knock on 91 octane gas.
1. Laptop: You must have a laptop. Modern tuning is all about computers. W/O a laptop, it is very hard to tune accurately with consistent repetitive results. There are many cheap used laptops on ebay. Make sure that you get one that is powerful enough for your tuning needs. I also recommend that you get a small laptop with a small screen. Mine is bulky and has a 14.xx inch screen. I am now in the market for a very small 7 inch mobile computer.
2. Logging hardware: You will need a logging/flashing hardware cable. The one that all of us currently use is the Tactrix Cable (http://www.tactrix.com). You can either get a universal cable or an Evo specific cable. The former will work on Evo and non-Evo vehicles, the latter will only work on Evos. I have one of each. One stays in my Evo and the other stays in my tuning kit.
3. Wideband O2 meter (WBO2): Do not attempt to tune your Evo if you do not have a WBO2 meter. Do not use the narrowband O2 sensor on the Evo to tune the car. The NBO2 was not intended for tuning purposes. It is used for emissions and it is only accurate under stoichometeric conditions and even then it is barely accurate. Tuning with a NBO2 was used back in the DSM days when WBO2 were very expensive and no one could afford them. Today, you can get a WBO2 meter for as little as $180. I use Innovate products. I have an LM-1/LM-A2 with two XD-1 gauges. One gauge reads AFR and the other gauge reads boost. The cost was $750. It was worth every penny. I have had zero problems with this kit.
4. Logging Software: The most widely used logging software is Evoscan (http://www.limitless.co.nz/EvoScan). It uses the tactrix cable to log data from your ECU port. It also allows you to integrate data from your WBO2 with the data from your ECU port. It costs $25. It is a one time fee that entitles you to later updates of the software. It is very user friendly and easy to set-up. If you want free software, then try Mitsulogger from the aktivematrix web site.
5. Tuning Software: The tuning software is known as Ecuflash. It is for free and you can download it from http://www.openecu.org. Be aware that some recent versions of the software have bugs in them and might not work on your lap top. I am still using version 1.29a because I do not want to deal with the possible bugs in later versions.
So now that you have all the equipment and tools, what do you do next?
First, you must install the WBO2 properly on your Evo. DO NOT install the WBO2 sensor behind the Catalytic Converter. That will give you erroneous AFR readings. The best position to place the sensor is in the down pipe 2 inches before the flange in the three o’clock position on the passenger side. Do not place the sensor in any position below three o’clock. You do not want condensation to form on the sensor and destroy the sensor.
Second, you have to go out and log data from your Evo. You must log, log, and log some more. Since I live in an urban area, flat freeway on ramp work great for me. Log in 3rd gear. Do WOT runs from 2500 rpm all the way to 7500 rpm. Only log the essential data with Evoscan. Logging all the data from your ECU will slow your logger down. The essentials include: AFR, timing, 2 byte load or loadcalc, TPS, RPM, Knock, boost (if possible), coolant temp, IAT, injector pulse width, and injector duty cycle. You must study and understand what the data means.
Third, download the rom image from your ECU using the tactrix cable and Ecuflash. Save the image to your lap top. Make sure the you write the immobilizer code in your rom on a piece of paper and save it. Understand what the tables in the rom mean. Do not touch them or modify them until you understand what they mean.
Fourth, now that you have read a whole ton and logged your Evo, you can proceed to modify the tables in your rom. The most important advice I could give you is to work INCREMENTALLY. Make small changes to the tables. For example, in the high octane fuel table lean out the map by making changes of no more than 0.3-0.4 target AFR. Do not go too aggressive in your changes. Another important piece of advice is to make the changes SMOOTH between cells. Recently, I saw a map that had the target AFR jump from 10.9, to 9.4 in two adjacent cells in the fuel map. This same map had a timing jump from 9* to 13* from 6500 to 7000 rpm. . The lack of smoothness in the map transition will more than likely trigger knock. A 4* jump from one load cell to the next will more than likely trigger knock on 91 octane gas.








