I just checked the 7.5's... all of them and a lot of others, but no luck finding a broken one... don't know what else to do except either hope someone knows which one it is, or i'll have to check them all 1 by 1.

 

You will actually have to pull the fuses (7.5A) because they will show up as good even when they are not, ask me how I know... Try tapping into the cigarette lighter or the windows, they have higher amperage and seemed to work well for me; I had the Zeitronix and LC-1 hooked up to those.

 

yeah, can't use the sig lighter... I made it constant power so my phone could always charge.

 

ok, I wrote this once, only to hit the wrong button and exit the page... real nice... ANYWAY. I went to a few stores today, Kmart (didn't have a serial to USB) a place where they work on comps, didn't have it. Anyway, I didn't get to see if the serial cable had an issue or not with it, but when I got home I looked again at Innovate's online manual and their paper manual and they have discrepencies between them. I have the brown and white wire connected and the yellow wire capped off, as the paper instructions say that it's for use of dimming the gauge when the lights are on... the online one doesn't say anything about that, though maybe I missed it. Soooooo, the online manual says to use, one and/or the other... perhaps I need to have the yellow wire soldered in there with the brown and white?

 

For the LC1:
white is system ground

yellow/brown are analog outputs (both customisable, one defaults to NB thou, cant remember which)

black = calibration+status LED

Not sure about the gauge

 

ok, so if I put the yellow wire (both are analog out wires) with the white and brown that I already have together, will that let this program open?

 

NO..

this is the LC1 we are talking about right (not the gauge)

yellow and brown wires are seperate, they are both analog outputs, so one to the gauge, one to the ECU - or whatever you like

white is a system ground, it should be grounded to the same place as the BLUE wire.

black is the calibration wire and should connect to the LED but also to a button which will ground it

red is power - obviously.

 

For the LC-1 according to the manual the hook ups are as follows...

Red -12 V supply
Blue-Heater ground
White-system ground
yellow-analog out 1
brown-analog out 2
black-calibration wire

so I guess I will have to check my wiring all over again... I thought I had the white and blue together like the manual says.

 

however, what am I supposed to do with the analog outputs? Just tape them off? The yellow and brown wires?

 

you can just tape them off - one of mine is taped, the other goes to the rear02 input on the ECU.

 

what was the reason for that?

 

ok, so I got the blue and white wires correct... they were right before... the brown is going to the white wire to the gauge. I am pretty much out of options and will have to call innovate and if I can't get it right, get another gauge that will work properly. Oh, and the letting the car sit all night with the battery disconnected didn't do a damn thing.

 

I thought as long as it had power, it had power and it was the same? Besides that.. and i'm not saying you are wrong in your statement, but the instructions only call for as little as a 5 amp fuse.

 

Called mitsu and got the explanation that the airbag code is a hard fault code? It would have to be hooked up to a diagnostic tool to be checked, the dealer is 45 minutes from me so now I will have another 15.00 or so dollars in gas for this WB... i'm pretty well sick of it now and i'm ready to box it up and get rid of it... if I take it to mitsubishi I will have to get rid of all of the wiring anyway otherwise they will fault me for the issue... which maybe I am at fault, I didn't realize an airbag system was going to be so sensitive. Anyone got any ideas on mods in the 300.00 range I can put on this car that WON'T need a WB that I could get to add a little more power to it?

 

Did you try physically pulling the fuses, all the ones you touched with the wiring?