Hey!
So im planning to pull my motor and build the bottom end this winter. As the time draws closer and im trying to order parts I keep getting different suggestions for pistons and rods, for different power levels.
Any and every place i call and ask about what they recomend for pistons and rods that will hold up, gives me a different answer, and reason for it.
I'm currently running about 500hp on a stock block. Id like to get up to around 700. This is a street car, not a race car, but i do like to have fun with it.
So i was hoping to hear from a few of you about what you used and how its working out.
If you used something that didnt work out, i really wana hear about it.
Specifically if you used H beam rods or I beam. Or HD pistons, or regular forged.
Thanks for any info you can give!

 

I'm currently putting together a block, but I am going "off the map" a bit. I can throw my 2 cents around.
Since I live in NY (as I see you do) the cold winter months can cause piston slap and oil burn in an engine with 2618 pistons. I've done it.

So my build is:
Race Engine Development Darton MID sleeved block
Carrillo Super A-beam rods
Cosworth forged pistons

The pistons are sorta rare in the sense that they are apparently BETWEEN 4032 and 2618. The piston to wall clearance is kept tight, and so for a 600hp daily driver should be perfect as long as I don't detonate it hard.
Every single shop will have their magic sauce and what they are comfortable with and know will work together.
I am aiming for a lightweight reciprocating mass, with quality parts.

Since this is a work in process (see my build thread), I cannot provide results yet.

Good luck!

 

Did I give you a ride in my Evo with Rob?

 

Carrillo rods are the business.

I overbuilt my engine to withstand 800+ but I run it at 700 (650whp)

RED Darton sleeved block
Carrillo Pro-H Rods #MI-4B11-65659H-04
CP 86.5mm 10:1 CR pistons #SC7225
CP 9310 upgraded wrist pins #905-2250-19CP3C
OEM crank
ARP Main studs
ACL Main + Rod bearings

 

The cutoff is 600ish. Above that, it's the same engine until 900-1000ish. You'll need to sleeve, Carrillo Pro-H or similar quality/strenght rod. You should always use a strutted piston (Wiseco HD type design). Head porting and bearing/piston clearances change a bit with power goals as well.

 

Well my plan was to get the CSS insalled instead of sleeves. It all set up with the machine shop run by the guys who make it. So closed deck essentially. Wiesco HDs, and probably Manly I beam rods, or similar.
All you guys have impressive builds.
and for the guy above, nope, never rode in ur car

 

The block should be sleeved.

Manley Ibeams are heavy. Carrillo Pro-H is the best <1000whp rod.

 

Just wondering why you think the sleeves are necessary over the CSS? specifically? Ive read a lot of pros and cons about both.

I agree the I beams are heavy, that was a concern of mine as well. However you're the first person to suggest i get an H beam. I'm assuming because they're carrilos, and it seems the general opinion is that theyre just that much better?

 

Really hard to beat the Pro-H Carrillos. They can withstand pretty much everything up to 1000hp and they are lighter than most.

If you want to rev, the weight is a factor. I rev mine to 9k all day

 

[QUOTE=and for the guy above, nope, never rode in ur car[/QUOTE]

Sorry that seemed weird. One night my neighbor who has a new type R shows up with a guy named Matt or Mike with a white evo GSR...
They ask for me to take them for a ride, so I did... Never saw that guy again and he said he lived close to me. Saw your location and thought it was worth a shot.
I will have to ask my neighbor because last I heard he had some random shop putting a used FP black in... He had no idea how actually large the turbo is.

 

lol, yeah theres a few other white ones right around me, and i work with a guy who also has a white X...theyre everywhere. The other day my girlfriend was convinced that i was driving behind her...while i was at work, lol

 

There are no cons to properly done Darton MID sleeves.

The CSS is like a half done solution. You're just closing the deck. The whole cylinder is still the thin factory liner in an aluminum cylinder.

The "type" of tod is not what dictates strenght. It's the design, manufacturing, and material used. The Carrillo's are "that" good.

 

Well....this happened today, thanks to a crazy old lady. So looks like the build plans are on pause either way, until this gets sorted out. Big disappointment

 

You gotta take your Evo to the shop that used to be called Elmo's in Scotia. They've done a lot of work on my Evo, and I told them ahead of time that I want it show car ready, not soccer mom 30 ft away my minivan looks the same standard. They did fantastic, and only one time I could feel some tape lines and I pointed it out to them and they corrected it.

 

I actually work at a dealer, and we have a place that all our work gets sent out to. But what you said is exactly my concern. My car has 40k on it and the engine bay is cleeeean. It looks like the some of the supports (radiator) will have to be pulled out, and I want it to look as good under the hood when they're done, as the outside does. Im gonna check that place out for sure and go talk to them. Thanks for the suggestion.