Evo X Boost Gauge Install ,No splicing, No firewall drilling,Pics+Vid= Clean As Hell
Good write up and all, but generally it is a VERY BAD IDEA to run wires in your wheel well... even if it's behind your fender liner. Things can snag the fender liner and rip it off, taking the wire with it. Then you have an exposed wire with power. This is one of the first things they teach audio install guys, because the consequences are detrimental. You can burn your whole car up if the circumstances are right.
Good write up and all, but generally it is a VERY BAD IDEA to run wires in your wheel well... even if it's behind your fender liner. Things can snag the fender liner and rip it off, taking the wire with it. Then you have an exposed wire with power. This is one of the first things they teach audio install guys, because the consequences are detrimental. You can burn your whole car up if the circumstances are right.
I'm at work right now, so I don't have a lot of time to look for the thread I saw it in. But if you look to the right (driver side) of the exhaust manifold tin, there is a big rubber grommet of wires going in. I've seen people tap that and run wires through it into the cabin. That is where I ran my boost line (not electrical wire). It's a ***** to get from the cabin, especially in the MR with all of the extra padding / sound deadening material. It's a huge rubber grommet, almost the size of a fist. It has a 90° bend in it.
I'm at work right now, so I don't have a lot of time to look for the thread I saw it in. But if you look to the right (driver side) of the exhaust manifold tin, there is a big rubber grommet of wires going in. I've seen people tap that and run wires through it into the cabin. That is where I ran my boost line (not electrical wire). It's a ***** to get from the cabin, especially in the MR with all of the extra padding / sound deadening material. It's a huge rubber grommet, almost the size of a fist. It has a 90° bend in it.
Ill check that out in a couple minutes. I think I know where your talking about.
awesome write up put mine in today, my only idiot move was i mounted the ground wire to the screw that holds the hood release which in my haste to finish didnt realize was a screw that is held in place by a piece of plastic, still trying to find a place to swipe my cool card on here. But then i moved it to the grounds on the floor board by the dead pedal. Awesome write up though glad i found this. Thanks
oh yea only took like 30 minutes even with the screw up
oh yea only took like 30 minutes even with the screw up
The bussman fuse tap I got from Kragen is rated for 10A max and in the its manual it says to not use w/ any fuse above that. The cig/acc fuse is 15A. Will this be a problem? (or maybe your bussman taps have a higher Ampere rating?)
It was quite easy for me. I rather destroy priceless small grommets then the steering wheel grommet or the firewall. Mine is working perfectly til this day. Also this is setup for Defi Gauges, not mechanical gauges. Running a vacuum line the way i have it would be ridiculous. This setup is electrical only.
Last edited by ZWingerRyRy; Feb 7, 2010 at 02:59 PM.
clean install thats why i need electric boost guage i hate running mechanical.. a tip for those using mechanic is slide the nylon tubing into a vacuum hose keeps it from kinking and getting pinched or cut.. worked well buts its a pain to get it to slide into the vacuu, tubing.






