I am just curious if you know about how much you have been spending to do this?

I ask because it seems like a whole lot of work for 200 something hp. Dont get me wrong seems like your doing a great job and its quite impressive, i am just curious because it seems like it would be alot less money and cheaper to modify a different, performance oriented car. Also I wouldnt imagine that the basic lancer engine is going to last very long under boost since it isnt disigned for that.

Either way, best of luck on your project.

 

Yes the code won't show because you would be removing the DTC functionality by removing the stock ECU. You also won't pass inspection, depending on your state's guidelines for emissions.

 

i wont pass with a stand alone?

 

No youi cant pass obd2 inspection with a standalone.

Sean

 

nah u wont, but if u know someone to help u out then ur good thats what i had to do

 

ya i got someone to help me out but i also just got my sticker like in april so im good anyway. hoping to get my aem soon. who thinks a evo 9 radiator will fit?

 

It will fit. Make sure you measure the thickness to ensure your wastegate will clear.

 

sweet, i think i have plenty of space there, like over an inch, think thats enough

 

ok so who can maybe guess why i have lost power. today boost was staying at 7 but not pushing as hard as normal. i just dont get it. temp is normal. oil is normal. i have felt a big difference in the clutch though. feels like i just got rele bad at driving. maybe theres a problem there. it only releases once the pedal is almost not being pushed in. i need helpppp!!!! plus when in boost after it spools, it almost sounds as if my car is just normal and not actually boosting yet theres still 7 pounds of pressure.
ok ill leave all of you at that to give me some info.
thanks

 

Based on what you said, it sounds like your clutch might be slipping. If you're still boosting 7psi, but it's not being put down to the wheels then your clutch is bad. What do you mean when you say, "it only releases once the pedal is almost not being pushed in?" You mean that when you let the pedal out it only begins to grab when the pedal is almost fully released?

 

ok well i just got the clutch, its the fx300 clutchmasters. i didnt beat on it for the first say 450 miles. what i mean about releasing it is when im stopped and i put it in gear, i slowly let it out and just about where i am pretty much taking my foot off the pedal is when the car will go forward. ive found myself only recently reving and not moving forward bc the release has changed so much. if its the clutch and its not even a month old then do u think i can get a return

 

That's kinda strange considering that upgraded clutches should be gripping very soon after the pedal leaves the floor. I'm still kinda thinking that the pressure plate may have a problem. This would cause the clutch to engage when the pedal is almost fully released as well as not hold power while accelerating. Did you replace your throwout bearing when the clutch was installed? Did your flywheel get resurfaced or replaced when the clutch was installed? Also, does the car seem to be revving quicker now, but not accelerating with the revs?

 

throwout bearing was replaced. car doesnt seem to rev any quicker but nothing was done to the flywheel bc it looked alright, the previous clutch was only a year and a half old too and was replaced by the dealer.

 

Your flywheel should've been resurfaced regardless to give a good friction surface for the clutch disc to grab on to. But I don't think that's the underlying issue here.

What does your vacuum gauge read at idle? Also, you said that, "plus when in boost after it spools, it almost sounds as if my car is just normal and not actually boosting." Does that mean it feels slower than before or does that mean that it doesn't feel like boost is even there? If your ECU is seeing knock it might be drastically pulling timing. What kind of AFRs are you getting at WOT?

 

ok well at idle im reading like -20 -19 which is normal. yes it feels a lot slower. it will feel like boost for a bit but then change and go quieter and be as if my car was stock and reving up high. we disconected the battery, wouldnt that stop it from running in limp mode, plus it runs real smooth and sounded awesome when it was working good. i wasnt getting any different codes besides intake codes like high and low inputs or something 102 107 something like that, i have to see. we had to turn the idle up to 1000 when doing the tune bc the car wanted to die after being reved but i noticed that after driving it home like an hour it stoped doing that so i reckon i can put the idle back down dont u think?