is this confirmed? cuz i kow a guy with dsm450cc setup, he had to use a resistor box as the honda guys use.. the only problem was, you need to double the rubber washe that are on your fuel rail he said.. he had to shim one pair a little please let me know, since i'm planning on using dms injectors, cuz i already bought them

 

I believe that should allow them to work but I have never done it so I cant say for sure. I am sure senate could say either way for sure. I suggest getting the injector settings from whoever you bought them from to use as a starting point for tuning them if they will work.

 

Ok so a little update

I went and found a junkyard that has a few lancers in it. You wouldnt believe how many junkyards in my area have squat for my car lol. Pulled the hub knuckle and installed it on my car today, so far so good. Oh and just to give you guys an idea of how serious this stupid issue is, when I pulled my old knuckle off today the hub litterally just fell out of the knuckle onto the ground with the inner bearing race still pressed on the hub and the outer race still pressed into the knuckle This is the bearing I installed less than 2 months ago. I really hope that this will fix my issue.

 

All of us are rooting for you too. Ever get that feeling, that maybe you should just sell the lancer and cut your losses? I haven't yet, but it seems a lot of people have...

 

Those people are quitters lol. I dont plan on going all out like demon but I definately plan on more mods in the future. At the very least I will learn all I can with this project and then if i step up to a more costly project i will have much less costly mistakes

 

I saw a 240sx in my area for 400 dollars...and a free one on craigslist as well, that was in a collision and could be used for parts. Had I not just spent a large sum of money on the lancer turbo parts....that would be my project car, lol. I feel you though, I never quit...my fatal flaw. If you can, can you post a pic of the knuckle thingie? I'm just curious to see what it all looks like.

I think I need to swap my shocks out soon, my car feels every little bump in the road, and the front end does a triple bounce on speed bumps and such. Anywho...

 

As soon as I unbolted the knuckle and went to pull it off the bottom ball joint the hub just fell out

Hopefully this new knuckle solves my issue, only time will tell...

 

I 240 for $400? Where do you live man they go for $1k+ for a beat up shell over here I have several buddies deep in the 240 scene.

 

Austin...most are 1200 all the way up to 8500, but yeah, there's one for sale for 400 and a wrecked one listed for free even. The guy says the engine still works and it's not damaged...just not a drivable car. I kinda thought it would be awesome to get both of them, pull the engine from the wrecked one and put it in the one with a non-working engine......wife would kill me though.

 

Ok guys so I have been doing alot of tuning smoothing out all of my knock and I am almost there. One question though, I decided to switch to forced open loop via disabling the FAA bit and sometimes my idle will ever so slightly go up and down. Only like maybe 150 rpms but still curious on why?

I did this to eliminate another variable in tuning which is trying to adjust those darn open loop threscholds lol. Nice thing here too is I can run my afrs around 15.0-15.2 cruise to help the mileage. Any ideas why this idle issue is happening though?

 

Dunno what FAA even is yet...But, when tuning openloop vs closed loop, don't you just see where the car goes into boost and set open loop to start there? Is that more difficult than I'm imagining without the ability to log boost?

You may answer and say FAA is like, always in open loop(because that's my best guess what it is), and then I am wondering, is that safe? reliable? etc etcx

 

Its a little more than that, open loop can be tricky. using forced open loop is perfectly safe and I like having control of my afr at all times. FAA is just the name of the set of periphery bits where the forced open loop command lies. This means no closed loop ever and this also eliminates any possibility of my front 02 sensor giving me issues if I did in fact damage it by cutting those sheilded wires since the ecu will never again use the front 02 sensor. This slight idle issue is the only negative so far with using forced open loop and its not even really a big deal because it doesnt do it al the time either I am just **** i guess

 

I'd flip that bit back on and simply tune open loop to be fully on by setting the open loop load threshold to 10 across the board for both 1 and 2. Disabling that bit does odd stuff.

 

Really? So it might control other routines we are unaware of yet? Maybe I will do that then it will still give me the same end result I am looking for.

 

This seems the easiest to tune, open loop all the way from 10load and up. Do you have trouble telling if the car is in open or closed loop, is there something you log that tells you when it is? Also, what is the reason for wanting to have tuned cruising settings, just gas mileage or other reasons too?