A little more on the price difference from what you are explaining I think lol.

 

I hate to sound like a mod but can everyone please just chill?

People buy cars and modify as such in a way that makes them happy. Who cares if its not to your tastes.

I come from a hot rodder background myself tuned up everything from boats, trucks, muscle cars, nissan 240z, to these guys. So i can sort of understand why the challenge of taking an unassuming looking car and making it fast can be fun to people.

With that in mind let the thread continue.

 

+1^^ Lets get this thread back on track

 

Yeah....so, when I get knock, remove timing in that area to remove knock, not across the board. Also, once you have no knock, do you increase timing at the bottom end, test until you get knock, then reduce a little.....or do you up the whole map on the top end all at once by a small amount, and then just pull and take notes of any knock, while keeping the map as smooth as possible?

The key difference between Evo and regular lancer turbo tuning I Think is that initial migration from non-turbo to turbo, but once that's out of the way, they are similar right?

And...03lances, you have been using VDR to calculate power right? How accurate have you found it, and do you ever try the power graphing in evoscan? do they end up similar, or totally different? Is that exact enough to trust in the same way someone would tune for the MBT on a dyno? or, at least that complemented by "no-knock-tuning"?

 

I would look at the graph the timing chart makes with ecuflash and drop the timing only at the begining of the knock sequence. If your change then makes the slope less smooth what i do is smooth out the map points surrounding it by lowering those points until i'm satisfied.

 

My experiences with VDR have led me to use it only for comparison. It gives me a general power reading but I dont think I have any roads good enough for a good pull either as it gives me lower numbers than I would expect.

 

Despite all the argument, this thread has alot of educational information . Thanks!

 

well during the 2 step process I got knocks up to 12, so lets say its rpm 3425 at a load of 90 and the timing is set lets say at 10 for example.

So I would go to the 3500 mark at 90 load, and drop it 4 degrees which should put me at 6 degrees of timing which should cure the knock right or what exactly do I need to do?

when I watched the ecuflash video of knock the recompile dude said to smotth it out because you will have like degrees set at 20, 18, 12, 16, 14 and so on...
would that cause a knock because it jumps from 12 to 16 degrees? i know im throwing alot but the timing I understand but it confuses me because I dont know if I should smooth out the numbers around the knock area or if I should just change the degree where the knock is exactly at.

 

This has been something that has really confused me alot trying to figure out. You could try maybe dropping it like 2 degrees then smoothing everything around that do you dont have big jumps like that. I try to keep it max of 3 degrees if possible just so I am not having to ask myself if the big jump is the problem or if in fact the timing is just too high.

 

That makes since, or I wonder if you can reverse it and just raise the timing before knock so when it hits that degree it could be smooth. I'm not sure if that would work but if you lower the timing you loose power as well

 

not for sure. Think of it like this if your timing map says 10 and your getting 12 counts of knock then your logged timing advance should show about 6 degrees of timing since the ecu is already taking that timing away trying to combat the knock. If you were able to drop it 2 degrees and smooth it out so you have no knock then you would actually gain 2 as the timing advance would now read 8. I try to go safe first then raise for more power later.

 

Ok so update:

Car has been working great no problems thus far with the bearing in this new(used) hub assy. I am pretty sure this one will be fine as I have inspected my old assy. it looks like the hub was just ever so slightly bent no doubt from me beating on it during my turbo install trying to remove the tie rod as I missed more than a few times and hit the hub . Roadspike was a tremendous (and thats not giving him enough credit) help in helping me to understand how to tune my timing map THANK YOU ROADSPIKE!!!!!!. I have been adjusting my map using the methods he has lead me to with great results. I think I am closing in on calling this tune a done deal. One thing that is bugging me if anyone wants to chime in:

When I first start the car it revs to 3000-3200 rpms then slowly drops to normal. Now if I run the A/C and the car is still cold I can let my foot and it feels like cruise control (I dont have cruise in my ES lol) It will literally hold my car or even accelerate it slightly until the car warms up anyway to fix this? I have tried lowering the idle settings with no luck.

 

On an evo it would mean the BISS screw on the manifold is out of adjustment but if its idling ok for you then it just means its something else.

Play with the ISCV desired steps instead of the idle speed and set them to lower amounts across the board using the multiplication trick, highlight the whole row and hit the * key and enter something like .90 for 90%.

 

Cool RS I will give that a shot. It idles just like stock when its warmed up.

 

Well once again update no issues with this new hub assy. pretty confident problem is gone . Anyone know the best place to get another throwout bearing for my car? It has the internal slave/bearing in one unit. I seen one for $105 but hoping I can find it cheaper.