Yet another thread about Turboing a 03 lancer.
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I have seen threads regarding the one by one method. One thing that is pertanent is as it states only one at a time for sure. Also you DO NOT want ANY oil in the head to drain into the hole where the bolt came out of. If this happens you can risk not getting the studs to the correct torque spec. Even after pulling my head off and cleaning it etc. I took compressed air and sprayed it into the hole right before installing each stud to be sure.
I have never done it like this. I have read people doing this and running fine for years after and others not fairing so well. Either way good luck bro I can tell you definately want to get this right and dont mind asking the questions to do so.
I have never done it like this. I have read people doing this and running fine for years after and others not fairing so well. Either way good luck bro I can tell you definately want to get this right and dont mind asking the questions to do so.
I have seen threads regarding the one by one method. One thing that is pertanent is as it states only one at a time for sure. Also you DO NOT want ANY oil in the head to drain into the hole where the bolt came out of. If this happens you can risk not getting the studs to the correct torque spec. Even after pulling my head off and cleaning it etc. I took compressed air and sprayed it into the hole right before installing each stud to be sure.
I have never done it like this. I have read people doing this and running fine for years after and others not fairing so well. Either way good luck bro I can tell you definately want to get this right and dont mind asking the questions to do so.
I have never done it like this. I have read people doing this and running fine for years after and others not fairing so well. Either way good luck bro I can tell you definately want to get this right and dont mind asking the questions to do so.
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If its not secured properly you will lift the head and bend rods etc., basically destroy your engine lol. No pressure though
As I said though there have been many who have done it this way successfully so I imagine those who were misfortunate just didnt take their time and do it right
As I said though there have been many who have done it this way successfully so I imagine those who were misfortunate just didnt take their time and do it right If its not secured properly you will lift the head and bend rods etc., basically destroy your engine lol. No pressure though
As I said though there have been many who have done it this way successfully so I imagine those who were misfortunate just didnt take their time and do it right 
As I said though there have been many who have done it this way successfully so I imagine those who were misfortunate just didnt take their time and do it right
I was doubting if I should do it the harder way but after those comforting words of advice of head lifting and rods bending I think I'll be ok lol. Im not trying to take the eeasy way out I'm just afaid I might forget where everything goes. But thanks alot for the help man and to everyone else here. I will be going turbo hopefully in 3-4 weeks so the deadline is comeing soon after buying part by part for over 8 months
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Ok so my buddy just got his 240 tuned with the new s15 turbo. He is getting fuel cut and going into limp mode so right now he is dynoed at 220whp, but my car is just as fast or maybe even still a little faster haha I should really take mine in and get dynoed.
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Lol, So my fpr finally arrived!!!!!! I will be installing that tomorrow and then tweak the fuel maps to where I want it then probably call it good until I can get some dyno pulls to confirm where I am at power wise.
sweet I cannot wait to see those numbers, how much psi you gonna run on the dyno. I think im going to run about 10 on my car and keep it there till I upgrade the clutch and stuff.
dddddddddddddddooooooooooooooooooooooooo iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiitttttttttttttttt tttttttttttttt..........................
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it will start to slip bad at 10 psi. i did mine before i went turbo and im glad i did. my subie clutch is really slipping bad now at 10psi, so the new one is here now its just a matter of the flywheel.
dddddddddddddddooooooooooooooooooooooooo iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiitttttttttttttttt tttttttttttttt..........................
dddddddddddddddooooooooooooooooooooooooo iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiitttttttttttttttt tttttttttttttt..........................
Ok so anyone know what would happen if the fpr fuel lines were accidently reversed? I am sure they are correct I have the hose coming from the rail going into the side port and the bottom port is going to the return line. I ask because this new fpr doesnt seem to be helping
. I installed it but in order to get my afrs where they need to be I have to crank up the base pressure to 60psi+ is this going to hurt anything? If i drop it down to the 37psi then in boost I am hitting like afrs of 14-15!!!! Its supposed to be a rising rate 1:1 but idk. Man I have some really ****ty luck lol.
If my clutch starts slipping what kind of clutch should I get that's good?
Why don't you try doing the lines a different way to see what happens? If you afrs are up why not do it a different way? Or have you tried that?
Why don't you try doing the lines a different way to see what happens? If you afrs are up why not do it a different way? Or have you tried that?
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Havent tried it only because I am 99% sure its correct, I have been able to bring my highest afr down to 11.5 which is perfect just have to adjust the others back up now that they are pretty rich. I am still at 64psi for base pressure though I hope I dont blow something lol.
Havent tried it only because I am 99% sure its correct, I have been able to bring my highest afr down to 11.5 which is perfect just have to adjust the others back up now that they are pretty rich. I am still at 64psi for base pressure though I hope I dont blow something lol.
theres something up with your fpr or your pump , it shouldnt be that high






