Ok so I reinstalled the hose from the valve cover to the intake nipple cause there was a very noticable loss in power with it off. Going to be getting a catch can soon. Hopefully my new fpr will be here tomorrow as well.

 

Ok so the company was apparently out of stock on the fpr I wanted to I got a refund and am talking to a couple people about another one. Still havent been able to install my new fuel strainer been working on the sr20det engine swap in my garage. Installed the fmic and piping, lined it up with the bigger s15 turbo we installed, it had an issue with the oil return line rubbing on the steering linkage so we found another longer hardline to use and move it out of the way, got his walbro installed and lsd diff. Everything is now installed except the ecu, couple misc connectors and fluid yay!!!! I can finally get that piece of crap outta my garage lol j/k. Maybe now he will stand a chance against me . My other buddy with his rb20det isnt much better lol.

Anyways so ya did some cruising and light acceleration tuning the other day to help start tuning a broader range of the timing map and got some great results. Better response more power and I think even a little better mileage

 

what psi are you running? and how much whp are you getting?
Im almost done with my kit, im getting my aem wideband today - stupid fed ex always delivers my crap late. Then Im buying the manifold next week. and all I got left is the forge wastegate, arp head studs, and my walbro fuel pump and i am done!!!!! Maybe i'll buy an oil catch can to I have been reading that everyone is having problems not having it.

 

I am running 10psi currently. I havent gotten over to a dyno yet but using vdr I am getting results ranging from 190-230whp. Thats another thing I have to do is install his new gauges just a wideband, boost gauge and a pillar pod

 

Finally got that 240 outta my garage!!! lol now for the other 3 cars waiting for my expertise haha. That neo we installed is pretty neat but IMO nothing compared to ecuflash. Kinda got tuning on the backburner right now brought a contractor out to my property yesterday to get some insight on my build site. I cant wait to have my bigger shop and a lift gonna make stuff soo much easier.

 

where do i get the info on how tight the arp studs supose to be on the head? plz let me kno. thanks

 

They are tightened down using the factory torque pattern and 60ft/lbs as per the spec sheet included with the ARP head studs.

 

Ok im so pissed about this head stud issue, I called this local place and this guy was a total dick just laughing at what I said and he was like well we got to do this and this and its going to cost about 2,000 to install some headstuds. When he wanted to take apart my whole motor and look at every detail. SO I guess im going to attempt it myself and I am pretty mechanically inclined so if any one can give me some tips, or post replies on the new thread im about to make in the request a question forum please do so.

 

any questions dont hesistate to ask man fo so lol. One tip I am not sure if I put pics up of this here or not but MARK THE TIMING BELT/GEARS with some white paint and put an arrow indicating the direction of engine rotation on top of the belt. This will make putting the timing belt back on 10x easier whether your reusing the old or installing new belt all you will have to do is line the marks off the belt with the timing gears and you will be back in time without all the hassle of lining it up turing over to motor to double check etc.

Dont fret on the moron who laughed at you, I could have so dropped the dude I WAS going to have do my exhaust, he basically called me an idiot for wanting 3" exhaust telling me it gonna be extremely loud and first couple bumps I go over it will be ripped right out anyways. Basically telling me he isnt putting this high on his list and didnt really care about the job. I was hella pissed because this was after talking to him twice and bringing my car to him setting up the day to get it done and then the day of the job bringing my car there to him not having anything needed for the job and making it out like I was supposed to tell him what to get He is the expert not me!!!!!! I did my part I brought him the car showed him the pieces I had and what I wanted done and he gave me a set day to come back. THat guys lost my business for good as well as at least 3 others for sure that were going to use him until they talked to me.

Ok I am done venting lol still upset over that if you couldnt tell

 

Lol im sorry to hear that bro, but I looked under the hood today, I think its going to be pretty easy i'll just take pics of what i remove so i remember how to put it back together. I also re read your thread and saw the pics you took when you cleaned the head and installed the studs, my only question how did you tighten them? Do you have to tighten them pretty tight or what is the torque setting? and how do you tighten by the torque settiing like is one turn equal to a pound... i really dont know. and how did you tighten them when the head was placed back on? lol sorry for all the questions

 

Senate nailed it up top 60ft ibs of torque for the studs I will usually do it in 4 steps so 20. 40. 60 then the final step is to go back over them at 60 to be sure. You will have to buy or borrow a torque wrench it will have numbers n the bottom to represent the ft ibs. Clicker types are the most common where you wil hear and feel a click when you've reached that torque setting. The pattern for tightening the bolts is in the fsm. It stars in the middle and you work your way out.

 

Ok cool thanks bro that helps out alot. All I need is a torque wrench and im good

 

Actually im an idiot I have a torque wrench that makes the clicking sound when im pulling back, how many pounds or whatever it is to equal 60 is a click?

or how many clicks does it take to equal 20, 40, or 60

 

dude on the bottom handle theres where you set the lbs , twist the handle to 60 ft.lbs. and tighten the bolt til it clicks then stop and that ones at 60 then go to the next...

 

hey just double checking i searched for an ARP install thread and found this can i do this with out removing alot of stuff or do you still prefer I remover everything anyways? Either way is fine with me.

Easy Arp cylinder head stud install,no cam removal required.
1st,remove coil cover and remove coils(like you are changing spark plugs).
2nd,remove radiator cap as to let out any pressure build up in cooling system.
3rd,remove all 10mm headed bolts that hold valve cover onto
cylinder head.
4th,now you see all 10 head bolts.start in middle of cylinder head and remove just 1 bolt(tool needed is a 12mm 12 point socket with a short extension)these bolts are tightened to a certain torque,then rotated 90 degrees twice,as to stretch bolt(torque to yeild)so they may seem a little bit tight.
5th,remove just first bolt,do not,i repeat,do not loosen any other bolts at this time.
6th,install first stud.tool needed is an allen wrench(has allen hole in top that will face up.Tighten this all the way in to block,untill it
wont tighten any more.
7th,take allen wrench off stud and slip washer over allen wrench,
put allen wrench back into top of stud while holding washer,once allen is on top of stud like you are going to tighten stud,let washer fall down onto stud.the reason i did this is so that the washer can only fall onto stud and not down anywhere else,like into oil drain back holes or worse yet,into oil pan.
8th,put some lube that comes with stud set onto threads of nut.do the same thing with nut as you did with the washer,for the same reasons.
9th,now you need a 13mm,12 piont socket,semi deep or deep and a torque wrench.Tighten nut to specified torque,I think it is somewhere around 80ft/lbs.check directions just to be sure.
10th,continue this procedure,one at a time,untill all ten are done,
then go back and check all nut torques one more time.
(note;2 or 3 bolts are a ***** to remove because the washer on the bolt is slightly under the valve spring,just pull on the bolt slightly with a pair of pliers,comes right out.I think it is the 2 middle bolts,the first two that you do)
11th,make sure that you are removing and reinstalling these bolts in the same sequence that you would torque the cylinder head with,sort of a circular,criss-cross pattern.
12,reinstall valve cover and coils.Thats it you are done.
can be done warm or cold,but would not recommend hot.
good luck.any questions on torque sequence,see service manual,
or someone could download image from service manual.(I would if i could figure where it went when i made a copy of it,LOL)