You should post up an actual screenshot steven. It should look something like this right when you open your rom in ecuflash (if your still using the stock rom)

 

sent ya a pm...

 

Ok so the car is almost done all I have left to do is put oil in the car, tighten a coolant clamp, and get the exhaust fitted but here are the finishing picks of the car

Drilled oil pan



Oil pan with Drilled hole



I decided to go with a different approach to the return oil line



aluminum bung to weld in oil pan



whole car



the FMIC



Engine build comeplete notice how my BOV hose wraps around the coolant pipe



whole setup again does anyone know where the blue wire tach signal wire goes? its the blue wire that is next to the oil car on the valve cover



side view of build



another side view



front view



Im heading to shop tomorrow around 3 pm to finish the build I will take pictures of my oil return setup so everyone can see the approach I took instead.

 

I don't know why more people don't use this approach. It is so much easier to have a female aluminum bung welded into the oil pan and use either an NPT barb fitting or NPT to AN fitting instead of drilling and tapping the pan. A+ for going the extra mile.

Yikes. Most people only have to worry about the upper coolant hose being too close to the manifold. That's pretty close for the BOV recirculate line, as well. You should move your throttle cable away from your turbo manifold. The excess heat will cause the cable to stick inside the sheath and keep your gas pedal pressed when you let off.

 

Ok will do. Does anyone know if the car IS drivable without a tune if I keep it out of boost? Trying to figure out how to get it home if they can't flash my car

 

You put injectors in and didn't scale them yet, right? If so, it's probably not drivable due to super richness. Other than the injectors, nothing else you've done should keep it from driving I wouldn't think so long as you stay in what normally would be "closed loop". So, if no injectors you could drive slow, but if injectors, you need to scale them first.

 

Correct. You'll need to scale your injectors and also modify your injector latency values. Use 412 for your injector scaling and use the latency values below as a baseline.

 

ok well if worst comes to worst to where I can flash it I will have to install the old injectors back in and try to drive it home so I dont boost it

 

ok I had them finish the car yesterday the exhaust is all bolted up all I need to do is hook up the
O2 sensor fix the oil return and thats it. They said the car Idles rough so does anyone have any maps that I can buy or something to get thte car running smooth? the setup im runnning is

GSX walbro 190 lph
440 cc injectors
evo 8 turbo

I will post up a video tonight on how the car runs, I want to run about 5-10 psi so if any maps will let me run that let me know please!!!

email is stephen12211@yahoo.com

 

So did you update the injector scaling and latencies with senate's values?

There are multiple maps out there, 03 lances has sent you 1 or 2 as well I think. What you need to do though, is maybe use one of those as a starting point. Adjust your fuel curves, maps, etc to match those in the example. Make sure you setup your openloop thresholds so you going into open loop above 40% ecuload or whatever and the throttle position for open loop, and then just log all you can while driving slowly...not like wide open throttle. Just have a friend watch the knock and AFR. Anywhere there is an AFR above what you want, just adjust the value a few small increments, relog, readjust until you get that happy medium you want. As far as knock when your AFR is "correct" pull some timing and see if the knock goes away. Anytime you see knock above probably 6 or so....just go ahead and let of the gas, rather than doing damage.

As far as base tune, just use 03's, but smooth it out so that your car responds well to it. Also, you're going to have to fine tune your injector scaling I think, though it may be right on with what senate gave you...just depends.

So, tune it up so you're seeing like 11.5-11.8 AFR (when in boost) and little to no knock (like 2 max is what I'm goin for).

So, can you flash your car now? or are you still having trouble with that?

 

what im trying to do is get a tune that will at least let me drive it home so I can have the car here to work on it if I need to and I still need to buy a tactrix cable if I can just get that one rom that will let me drive then I will be fine

 

OMG IM AN IDIOT!!! ok I figured out why it was ruuning rough sneates map was running rich with stock injectors and im using the 440cc I looked back at an old email he sent me and said do not flash this map on your ecu lol. i must have gotten them confused with 03lanes and senates ok I will head to the shop tomorrow morning fix the oil return hose and falsh the car and it should be drivable either tonight or tomorrow not sure yet

 

Easily done lol sometimes I Forget which map I am currently running. I am glad the little compare button is there so I know I am modifying the right one

 

I just got back from the shop today was no fun its like im not suppose to drive a turbo car!!! well I started the car looked under and yeah the car was idling pretty rough... but anyways I found the oil leak I tighten both return lines from the oil pan and the turbo, so I started the car again and it was still leaking im sitting here like wtf...I thought it was coming from the turbo sides where it stores the oil, well I found out where it came from the oil feed line!!! I didnt tighten it enough so I had to take everything back off and drain the fluids once more, I got the banjo nut tighten down better this time, and all I had time for was to install the turbo to the mani again, and connect the oil feed line so im going to have to go thursday back to the shop and finish the car and pray that no more problems occur. so thursday everybody is when this turbo build will be complete!!!

 

I get the feeling...it's never complete. There is always one more knick knack to add.