The throttle cable has MELTED into the rubber surrounding it. Mine did the same thing, only I caught it when it was just sticking a little and fixed it. The way to fix it is to run the throttle cable around the back of the engine instead of around the front near the exhaust.

If it's already melted, then either pull it back and forth until it loosens up, or if it's too stuck, you'll have to replace it before you move it.

If you need to see how it's run, I'll take a video and show you mine, just let me know.

 

shoot me a video bro. I could see the metal but it didn't look like it could really affect the cable from moving freely with the pedal push in or out. How did you get the pedal to get soft (movable) again.

 

K, here is how mine is.

http://youtu.be/CCbzUz7WHeI

 

thanks for the vid bro. As soon as I get out of work I'll head to my mom's job and do that. I was thinking of taking the plastic off for right now until I can get another cable.

 

the junkyard only had a mirage in their lot so I used one of their cables. We'll see how it goes on the way home.

 

anyone know why evoscan would keep throwing an error message saying "access to port has been denied". It had been working fine except for the last 2 days.

 

Attached is a WOT pull that I was able to do. Advice.

 

What PSI is that hitting, 6?

The reason I ask is that I am comparing my logs/knocksum to yours, but it's hard because on my roms load of 100 or so means 1psi. Like you said, the TPS probably ought to read higher...you replaced the cable though, so it may be not quite adjusted right. First thing to be cautious of is make sure you don't tighten it too much so that the pedal being floored pulls the cable enough to break stuff. But if you have slack in it so much that pushing the pedal down doesn't even hardly move it...maybe that's why, not sure. Have someone in the car push it while you watch the throttle body part and just make sure there is additional slack left when it's "pedal to the...rubber bumper". The manual might have more on that.

Anyway, looks like the IDC goes above 60, so that's a plus. I'll make more recommendations once you answer that first question about psi and what not...I want to make sure you were actually in boost, and that the throttle cable isn't keeping you at like 30% less throttle or something.

I still wouldn't mess with the MAF scaling yet, I tried it way back and it just didn't work well. It gave me this ...like, I don't know how to describe it. The AFR's would swing back and forth depending on throttle pressure. If I was at part throttle it could be rich, but then if i pushed it a little it would swing lean, then back to rich. Just a lot less precise than i wanted it to be. I guess if you can get it to work better than me...then whatever works, works. Messing with MAF though is kind of like using a piggyback to fool the computer into thinking it needs more gas.

 

Gotcha. That was at like 4-5 PSI when I looked at my boost gauge. Looked more like 4.5 though.

 

Yeah, as long as that was not 0psi was what i was getting at. Your knocksum looks somewhat normal for the stock lancer ROM. It's very sensitive, and knocks a heck of a lot for me and my buddy with one (stock 03 oz). I have tuned my thresholds some, but still see knock in shifts and during a downshift, and sometimes when in 1st or 2nd. 3rd gear pulls are virtually knock free, with maybe a 1 count.

Anyhow, so...point is you may need to bump your multiplier up by 1 point, maybe 2...but not before you do some pulls and compare the hp/tq in virtual dyno when you remove some timing. If the car makes power, it's doing okay. If the car looses power, or you hear pinging, you know something isn't right. So, if you have knock or det, it will reduce power either by virtue of bad combustion or the engine pulling timing.....either way, that's not what you should focus on too much right now. I think pull a degree in both spots there is knock, maybe 1 degree above that spot as well.


Then, do a couple more pulls, some at partial throttle, some at WOT if you feel safe doing so, and i want to see them. Fuel looks decent, not too bad, as far as AFR's go. Obviously it isn't perfect, but with that first fix in place, it's getting richer where you'd like it to be. Add fuel where you want it richer, in the spool up area, and lets see another log. I want to see how that effects the later rpm range, if it's richer early on.

Also, is MAF stock right now, or no where near?

 

The log above is with the MAF table altered. I have a log that I will post in a little bit with the MAF table being stock.

 

Attached are two logs. One is of the car going lean and the other is of me doing a pull with the stock MAF table.

You can see the leaning issue is worse because it never gets rich. Before I was able to get it to be rich by given it a little bit more throttle but now I can't do that. It also seems to happen more often when it is in closed loop. It is easier to make it happen in closed loop than in open loop.

 

Its ALWAYS going to be lean as far as WOT is concerned if its in closed loop. Closed loop means the engine is striving for 14.7 no matter what. Its not until open loop that the ecu starts to use the settings you have in your fuel map.

 

Sorry 03lance the going lean part while in closed loop is not during WOT. I know it is striving to stay at 14.7 but when it should switch over to open loop or even when it is open loop if I give it a little bit of throttle it goes lean.

When I did the WOT pull it was in open loop. Green Bandit and I are having issues with going into boost lean even if we are in open loop also the car will go lean at the initial stab like you seen in the logs.

 

Gotcha. So I should know this by now but 440s? I had crappy lean conditions too and I had to drop my scaling down to ultimately fix it. Had it from 390-410 and could not fix the issue. Finally after dropping to 360 helped my particular issue.