same here.

 

bypass "mod": if you upgrade your TB to a bored unit you'll have to do this in all likelyhood. my TB is bored so close to the water jacket that I'd be afraid of sucking in coolant (not really). Find the two lines coming out of the TB then take them both off (and have something handy to catch the cup of coolant that's gonna leak out). Take the shorter one off of the head and stick the open end of the longer one where the short tube used to be. That's it. Even in sub freezing weather I had no issues with starting. Is it an improvement? I don't know because I did this at the same time as I installed my TB- certainly can't hurt

Intake Air Temp Sensor is inside our MAS you can't move it, sorry.

I think I'll try the plug indexing- couldn't hurt, right?

fuel line insulation- meh, again couldn't hurt but if you're REALLY racing then you're thinking about things like bags of ice on the intake manifold between runs and a bottle of water to spray down the IM, fuel rail, TB, MAS flex pipe, radiator, etc. our fuel lines are pretty short and are mostly kept away from the engine. The fuel rail sits on top of the IM and I don't see how you could wrap it. Maybe a heat resistant powder coat- but then you run the risk of plugging holes.

Synth- meh. It works for some and then others have oil consumption issues (I lost 1/2 quart in a month with only one autocross event- not impressed). I can't say I noticed a huge increase in power, either. But it's your money, you do what you want, but check that dipstick and keep a quart in the trunk


Water ratio- this is basic racing stuff. I know guys that run more than 60% water all year. But the chemical coolant does help inhibit rust and corrosion. I've found my radiator to be pretty efficient as it is.
If you want cooler then do the ram air mod (searchable on evoM). remove the platic plates in the front grill and run a dryer duct to your filter. It's about $12 for a 4" dryer duct and you can cut it in 3rds. Get creative with the mounting.

Weight reduction helps, too and is free. this is also a searchable topic on EvoM. Get creative. If you're out of things to take off your car- start jogging Formula1 engineers say that it's easier to lose a pound of driver than it is to lose an ounce of car

Fuel mod is vital- check the sig

 

I done this one time when my car died for some reason and then it ran again. It was amazing!! Didnt see any horsepower gains though.

 

Isint this being talked about right now in the ralliart threads? " is my throttle body heated"?

 

That presupposes that any of us follow the RA threads I have enough to worry about/figure out with a G94 that I don't need the g69 baggage on top of it. It's an easy enough question to answer though- go look at your TB. If you see coolant lines: yes. If not: no. Still not convinced? Take the TB off and if coolant comes spilling out: yes. If not: no.

 

My OZ is 2003, we have the same parts, you are good to go...go do the mod

 

Hey Al...just kidding, sorry I had to. I read the thread you were refering to earlier w/ the ram air mod, sounds like some work, but then the thread died before anyone gave a final opinion on doing ram. Was it worth it? Which way was better?

 

No i was saying that thats what the thread was called. "Is my throttle body heated" Sorry for the mix up. I will tyyr this when I get off work and then go far a test drive.

 

same for me. i will let you all know how it does.

 

Ram air rocks! I lost mine on the way home from a friend's house (turned around in a driveway that was gravel, it hit a piece of sidewalk or something and came loose- not entirely sure how). Anyway, the way up there is uphill and I had decent power. On the way home it ran like ish and I couldn't figure out why. I heard a scraping as I got off the freeway and after I cleaned the crap out of my pants ( ) I looked and saw the duct has come loose and wasn't venting to the filter- hence, loss of power. I went back to the dryer duct because it's cheap. Just don't forget to pop a couple holes in the bottom of the bend for water to escape or it'll collect and then no more air and it'll come off from the weight of the water (that happened to me also )

It's been shown that every 6 degree drop in intake charge temp nets just over 1 horsepower. the ram drops temps 30-40 deg depending on speed and ambient temp (lower temp outside seems to give less of a temp difference).

All temps are measured from the IAT sensor in the MAS via OBD-II reader (auterra palm dyno-scan).

 

hey does the ram-air thing work for autos? cos the transmission is in the way isnt it?

 

you can always mod the battery if need be (move it or get a smaller one)

 

yeh thats too much work. i got the stock intake funnel hooked up with a heat shield, it seems to do the trick

 

lazy=slow

 

well how much time and money is involved in moving the battery?

also buying a battery isnt worth doing, the one i got is new