3 hours? I thought we took 4. That's what my stomach told me, at least, with all its growling. I think it turned out well, though. Your car definitely feels like it'll pull on my Ralliart. We'll know for sure this weekend. If you win, then I'll be sad.

 

Here are my map using 98720012 def. file. it still looks the same. let me know what you all think, thanks!

 

Those maps look pretty stock. Below are my maps from before and after my tuning session last night. Pretty big difference, eh?

High Octane - Before & After


Low Octane - Before & After


High Octane Timing - Before & After


Low Octane Timing - Before & After

 

So you think i have the right def. to start tuning?

 

Start out easy. I'm not sure about your setup, but I think something you're really going to need to watch is going to be your knock count. Right now, your timing is set pretty high (compare it to Zack's.) When I was driving and Zack tuning, we worked at bits of it at a time to start. First worked heaving on the 3000-5000 range, then the higher 5000-6000 range, then started doing minor tweaks in 500 increments until it was right. If yours is anything like what we ran into, you'll be really rich down low (2000-3000), then start to lean out and get some knocking up to around 4000-4500, then get lots of knock above that. While doing pulls, most of the tweaking was done in the 80-90 load range.

 

Yeah, i still waiting on my wideband, it should be here either today or tomorrow. so that means either fri., sat.,or sunday., we are going to tune it. once i get it tuned ill post and show you guys the results

 

Do you happen to know why my H.O. Ignition map is so high from 0-30% load?

 

I checked with mtcavity on OpenECU again, and he said that the definition file he made for you is definitely correct and is reading the addresses correctly. Therefore, the ignition maps you're getting is correct as well.

Here's his reply verbatim:

"Yep (yes), all the addresses are correct. If the car has never been to a tuner or Mitsubishi for adjustments, the car SHOULD BE stock (considering there was no previous owner).

My Galant did not come with a knock sensor and adjusts the fuel map in some other fashion; make sure it is not some other system controlling the fuel map selection. Check on this... "

 

for exp. a piggy, but i took that off so we are all good

 

Well, for those of you who are boosted, I have some bad news....
After spending another 90 minutes tonight logging and tuning, I ran into a potentially huge problem with our ECU.

After tuning the ECU for a safe 3rd gear WOT pull, I decided to work on the partial throttle / below-boost / cruising area. It's in this region under certain circumstances that we are in trouble.

This issue, which I'll explain in a moment, arises from the fundamental flaw of using our OEM, N/A ECU for tuning a now turbocharged system. Now on to the description of the problem:

The ECU came from the factory expecting and tuned for a naturally aspirated engine. When we turbocharge it, from the ECUs point of view, all we've done is caused an extremely lean condition at higher loads (on boost). So, to compensate, we add a larger fuel pump, larger injectors, an adj. FPR or FMU and add lots of fuel in the High Octane Fuel Map. This is what I worked on last night with my friend. We got it all tuned up nicely....... for full boost.

Tonight I decided to tune the car for partial throttle - when I don't spool up the turbo, and hence the car stays in vacuum, just like the naturally aspirated car it used to be. For the most part, at lower RPMs, the load on the engine is lower the than the load it sees when we floor it and hit full boost. However, tonight I ran into the area where the too overlap - and it was not pretty! If your RPMs get high enough while keeping the throttle off enough to not build boost, the load on the engine actually gets up to the same amount it sees under full boost. So it looks at the Fuel Map and sees where we dumped a ton of fuel ( since at WOT, we need lots of fuel to keep the car at around 11.2 AFRs). But since we aren't on boost, all the extra fuel isn't needed, but the ECU adds it anyway since this is what we added to the map.

The result? We just basically put the car into LIMP MODE! Limp mode is where the ECU just dumps all the fuel it can to avert disaster. For any of you who've ever experienced limp mode, you know how UNDRIVABLE it is! You lose all power, the car shakes violently and you basically "limp" to your destination. Unfortunately given our tools (ECUFlash + stock ECU) we can't do anything about it. For the EVOs, which come factory turbocharged, they have two sides to their Fuel Maps - the left side, load from 0 - 100, is all the "no boost / vacuum" cells. The right side, load from 110 - 260 (or 300 in the IXs), is now for the "on boost" side. They can tune for both conditions........ and we can't.

What does this mean for us? Well, we have to make a choice, and most, as I will, choose to just avoid driving in the non-boosted side. 95% of the time, you'll never even run into this issue. For my particular setup, I hit LIMP mode after ~4300 RPMs and up from second gear at very low throttle (remember, no boost). All you'd have to do if you hit that limp area is to push the throttle further, which then builds the boost and the car uses the extra fuel.

Anyway, I just wanted to share with you all the first major issue I've encountered with ECUFlash and our base Lancers. I apologize if I've been rambling and my thoughts are incoherent. It's 2:20 AM and everything is starting to spin. I think it's time for bed.

 

^this is bad news, the only good thing is it is at such a high rpw level it will not bereached very often when we dont want to go into boost, its also not to much of an issue for autos as most of us dont controlour shift points and the car shifts for us if our tps is lower.

 

dayum dude, would never thought about it that way. i guess we really can't enjoy the full potential of both worlds at it's best huh?

 

your gonna eat gas like crazy running boost all the time though. maybe it would be best to use another tunning option if your using a tubor.

 

What happens if you try to load an Evo ROM onto the lancer ECU? Anyone try it?

 

^^ Unfortunately that wouldn't work. It's all in the actual hardware on the ECU itself. Now if we could swap entire ECUs, that would solve the problem. The EVO ECU (not ROM, but the actual physical computer) is built for boost.

Actually, it's not that bad for us. Remember, you only run into if you go into high RPMs with a very low throttle (no one does this really). Under normal driving/cruising, you'd almost always shift way before this issue. I still think this is the best tuning option we have, especially if you don't want to spend $1500 for a standalone which is the only alternative. Well, there is the MiniSquirt for ~$300, but who wants to make their own wiring harness