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DarkMitsu's 4g64 Swap Page

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Old Aug 31, 2009, 03:56 PM   #1
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DarkMitsu's 4G64 Swap Page

******************* WARNING ********************
The information in this thread is to be used at your own risk.
******************* WARNING ********************


This is the second complete documented 4G64 swap done to a Lancer, credit needs to be extended to rpmruffryders as well for his post https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...02-lancer.html...

List of parts required...

03 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 8 ecu
1.3u Tactrix cable (you will use this to hack the ecu and disable the immobilizer as well as some unused sensors) purchased from http://www.limitless.co.nz/ (this company makes evoscan software witch is great for datalogging )
Lancer evolution 8 ecu (part number I got MN132874 had 94170015 file flashed into it)

4g64 engine (00-01 mitsubishi eclipse 4g64's had a different cam reluctor which can be changed to the 02+ style reluctor)
intake manifold (stock 4g64 intake manifold alot of eclipse owners are having problems with it cracking off at the welds , you can replace your manifold with a cast aluminum outlander manifold )
exhaust manifold (stock 4g64 the flange pattern is the same as 4g63t flange, evo 8 and 2g eclipse exhaust manifolds will bolt on)
injectors (stock 4g64)
alternator (stock 4g64 with its bracketry)
power steering pump (stock 4g64 with its bracketry)
a/c compressor ( stock 4g94/4g64 they are both the same, just be sure to get the bracket that it bolts to on the 4g64 block)
501 eclipse Maf sensor ( stock eclipse maf)
motor mount (its the only one attached to the motor you will need it ,you will have to make some custom brackets for mounting)
eclipse lower radiator hose (stock eclipse lower radiator hose with 1 inch trimed off each end for fitment)
Lancer upper radiator hose (stock lancer upper hose works fine)
14 inches of 5/8 heater hose (you will need to replace one of the heater hoses)
coil packs & plug wire's (if your new engine does not come with these dont worry your factory coil packs will work but one of the spark plug wire's will be to short)
Valve cover gasket (the 4g64 I installed had bad plug seals)
Oil pan and gasket (the 4g64 I installed had a big dent in the oil pan )

K5M422F6ND transmission(stock 3g eclipse 5 speed transmission)
front bracket (dont need it, you will be using your factory lancer bracket)
rear bracket (dont need it, you will be using your factory lancer bracket)
top tranny mount aka. left motor mount(you will need this out of an 00-05 eclipse)
slave cylinder (make sure to get the banjo bolt and the fitting that attaches to it)
Lancer differential (your axels are too small in girth to fit into the K5m422f6nd so you will need to swap you stock lancer diferential in)
Lancer drive shaft's (after the differential swap you will be able to use your stock Lancer axels)
Starter (you need to use the eclipse starter)

Wiring
stock wiring harness (use your stock wiring harness from your lancer)
crank angle sensor clip (you will need a 4 inch clip of the wire as well as the plug)
throttle position sensor clip (you will need a 4 inch clip of the wire as well as the plug)
power steering pressure sensor clip (you will need a 4 inch clip of the wire as well as the plug)

MISC
5 quarts of your favorite oil and oil filter
4 ngk spark plugs
3 quarts of your favorite gear oil
power steering fluid
brake fluid (for bleeding your clutch)
factory lancer snorkel intake pipe and airbox does fit (but it doesn't look very good)
Battery relocation (you can mount your battery in stock position , but for a cleaner look relocate it to the trunk)
MD746157 CAP M/T (order this from mitsubishi when you pull the transmission apart to swap differentials)
1 10" slim radiator fan ( fan relocation to front side of the condensor 1 is required 2 for the cleaner look)

CELS
p0123 I had the wiring wrong on the tps but that is now fixed use the wiring diagram i listed below under the wiring section...
p0113 iat high output (solved gone)
p0107 Map circuit (solved gone)
p0455 Evap control system (did not extend 2 emissions plugs , running new code in the periphry2 code hasn't returned yet)

NOTES
running on a single fan during a 90 degree day avg. coolant temps between 210-225 , depending on if sitting there idling or if cruising ... I got the second fan installed now and it seems I see the same temps , probably need to switch to a lower temp thermostat and/or a thicker core radiator... Average mpg now is 28mpg , my average on the 4g94 was 33mpg, this is with stock lancer airbox and stock lancer exhaust system on both setups... No this does not mean the car is overheating, this just means I think its running hotting than it should be... I need to run a log on a eclipse and/or a galant to compare numbers to find out what normal average operating temps are...

Videos
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhV_tWpII7o

dyno
dyno sheet is on page 7 post 93 https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/7773371-post93.html

Special Thanks to Jessica , Dennis , Sandra , Michael...
Online Thanks to Senate6268 , Rpm ruffryders

Last edited by darkmitsu; Jan 25, 2010 at 02:54 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2009, 03:56 PM   #2
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Engine removal (ill be adding some reference pictures)

1. loosen the axel nuts on your 2 front tires, loosen the lug nuts on your 2 front tires
2. jack up your car, put the jack stands in place, lower your car onto them shake your car some and make sure it is stable...
3. remove the lugs off the front tires , remove the 2 front tires
4. remove the 2 axel nuts/washers
5. remove the 2 bolts that attach the spindle to the shock/strut 17mm nut & bolt combo , remove the clip that holds the brake line in place so you will have extra room to move the spindle around
6. crawl under the car and remove the downpipe completely 2 bolts attach it to the manifold , 2 attach it to the rest of the exhaust , 2 attach it to the body, stack some 2x4's to hold up the rests of your exhaust while you do the work...
7. using an axel popper you can pop out the axels and remove them (this tool is a prybar with a screw driver handle)
8.take the cherry picker and attach it to the top of the motor give it a little pump to lift it up slightly
9. remove the 3 bolts that attach the k member , this is the bar that goes from the back side of the car to the front . It is held on by 1 bolt in back and 2 upfront, and 1 bolt that attaches to the front motor mount.
remove the 4 a/c compressor bolts and let the a/c compressor hang in the motor bay , leave the hoses attached if you disconnect them you will draing the refrigerent and end up having to get it refilled...
10. take all the bolts on the bottom of the tranny that attach the motor to the transmission as well as removing the rear motor mount bolt
11. remove the starter , alternator , oil pressure , knock sensor wiring harness
12. go around top unplug all the wiring harness and hang it over the driver side fender
13. remove the throttle cable , slave cylinder oil line , fuel lines , shifter cables , ect.
14. remove starter held on by 2 14mm bolts
15. remove the motor mount right hand motor mount completely , remove the bolt that goes thru the center of the left hand motor mount.
16. now you will lower the engine and transmission together make sure to clear the rear transmission bracket from the mount
17. after motor has been lowered closer to the ground remove the bolts from the top of that tranny , seperate the transmission from the motor set it on the ground .
18. lift the engine out of the bay using you cherry picker...
19. slide the tranny out from under the car it ...

Last edited by darkmitsu; Sep 4, 2009 at 09:04 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2009, 03:57 PM   #3
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Transmission Prep

-remove every bolt and bracket off the transmission , remove the motor mounts and mounting brackets , remove the 4 bolts holding the gear selector , remove the 6 bolts for the gear cover, use a flathead screwdriver punch a hole in the top of the rubber freeze plug and pry it out , remove the clutch fork , there is a few random bolts that go into the tranmission they need to be removed they lock stuff into place on the inside of the transmission, remove 2 bell housing bolts from the inside of the bellhousing , remove 15 bolts from the opposite side , now take your axel popper and pop the cover 1/8 inch using the 4 popping tabs all the way around it the housing will not come off yet...Be sure not to pry on mating surface otherwise your transmission will leak at the spots you pried from...

-this bolt stripped on both my transmission and had to be drilled out , this bolt attached to a gear and you cant pull the case off without removing it...

-you will need to use a pair of snapring plier to pry outwards on the snapring in the hatch and at the same time pull the case upwards...

remove these 3 bolts that hold that ring in place then the gear pack will be ready to lift up and out of the transmission



-lift the whole pack of gears up and out

-lift the differential out

-now you will need to take the differntial bearing from your lancer tranmission and place them make sure to do this on both sides of the housing , I had to try a couple different combination's of shims before I found the combo that felt right where everything was tight enough but not to tight to were you cant turn it...

-set the Lancer differential in place

-set the gear pack back in place

-use some brake clean to clean up the surfaces then apply some high temp silicone as gasket...

-put the case back on

-put everything back on and tighten everything down

The below information is from senate6268

Quote:
Originally Posted by senate6268 View Post
You should revise your transmission reassembly notes to include proper procedure for shimming and measuring preload settings to prevent irregular wear and damage. Here's the procedure from the FSM:



And here's a nice writeup/explanation of what shimming and preload means in a transmission and how to measure/calculate how much is needed:

http://www.twingles.com/ideck/rebuild3/dretranny5.htm




-take the front and rear transmission brackets from the lancer transmission and transfer them over to the new K5M422F6ND transmission, for the top mount aka left motor mount you will need to use the eclipse motor mount.

-Next you will be lifting the 4g64 with you cherry picker and positioning it into the motor bay. lower the engine pretty close to the ground , you will now slide the new transmission under the car and lift it up positioning it onto the motor and putting one mounting bolt in the top of it as soon as you get it close enough together. then you will put the second one in the top and tighten those 2 bolts evenly drawing the motor together onto the dowel alignment pins.

-then you will be lifting the motor/tranmission up together making sure to clear the rear mount from the body, then work on trying to get the left motor mount bolt into place, then place a 2 inch spacer under the one on the right side to support the motor till you get your custom mount made, then work on the rear, and finally the k member...
Attached Thumbnails
DarkMitsu's 4g64 Swap Page-eclipse_maf_values.png   DarkMitsu's 4g64 Swap Page-tools.jpg   DarkMitsu's 4g64 Swap Page-heat-shrink.jpg   DarkMitsu's 4g64 Swap Page-wire-flare.jpg   DarkMitsu's 4g64 Swap Page-apply-solder.jpg  


Last edited by darkmitsu; Sep 11, 2009 at 06:43 AM.
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Old Aug 31, 2009, 03:57 PM   #4
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Engine install

Its reverse of removal...

once you have the mounts all in place continue on by starting to plug in everything and extend what needs to be extended, replace the electrical connectors for CrankPS and TPS .

ENGINE WIRING

You will need these tools if you want to do the wiring properly... wire stripper , soldering iron , razor blade , heat gun, solder , heat shrink , electrical tape...

when changing connectors start off by stripping 1 inch of wire sheathing off each wire you want to connect. Then take you heat shrink and slide if about 4-6 inches down the wire away from where you will be soldering. If you dont when you heat your wire for the solder it will shrink the heat shrink were it is...

Flare all the wires as you can see in the picture then twist them together...

Now heat up the wire and feed solder into the wire you will know its right when you touch the wire with the solder and the wire soaks up the solder.(if the wire never soaks up the solder its because you are using a weak soldering iron and its not getting the wire hot enough)
Slide the heat shrink over the part you soldered and use the heat gun to make the heat shrink wrap the wire...
Then tape and loom you wires...Now that you know how to solder you can continue on and do the wiring...
You will need to change 3 plugs because of the different kind of connectors and extend a few wires...
Crank angle sensor
red ------------ red/yellow
green/red ---- green/brown
black ---------- black
Throttle Position Sensor
yellow ---------green
black -----------black
yellow/green--gray
Emission's plugs (these need to be extended about 8 inches to the back side of the intake manifold)
Water sensor (this sensor's wiring needs to be extended about 6 inches)
Alternator, oil pressure, starter(take the starter, alternator, oil pressure wiring, this section of wiring used to be routed around the back side of the motor you will need to seperate the wires. To do this remove the plastic wire loom covering and tape. Take the alternator and oil pressure those will be going around back together you can tape those back up and loom them, the oil pressure will need to be shortened about 8 inches because it is now going to be on the side of the block closer to the transmission rather than being by the oil filter housing. The starter section of the wiring will now be routed towards the front of the block tape and loom it up as well.
power steering wire(cut off the stock wire and place a clip of the eclipse wire on there because the single wire plug is slightly different)
Attached Thumbnails
DarkMitsu's 4g64 Swap Page-3-bolt-ring.jpg   DarkMitsu's 4g64 Swap Page-bolt-hell.jpg   DarkMitsu's 4g64 Swap Page-dif-bearings.jpg   DarkMitsu's 4g64 Swap Page-snap-ring-hatch.jpg   DarkMitsu's 4g64 Swap Page-transmission.jpg  


Last edited by darkmitsu; Sep 13, 2009 at 10:17 AM.
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Old Aug 31, 2009, 03:58 PM   #5
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The below information is from senate6268
getting you Lancer evolution ecu to work with a little bit of twist of a my own.
-1- Swap the wires on the Lancer ECU harness in pins 8 (fuel pump relay) and 22 (A/C relay).
pin 8 purple and pin 22 pink.
-2- Unplug the Lancer ECU and plug in the Evo ECU.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...-your-ecu.html
-3- With the Evo ECU hooked up, read the ECU using EcuFlash to determine the ROM ID. save you rom file make sure to add the .bin to it so it will be recognizable by ecuflash. If ecuflash automatically decodes it you can skip step 4b.
-4a- After you have the ROM ID go into the rommetadata folder and edit the xml file that is for you specific ecu adding the below stuff...
-4b- you will have to go out on the internet and find the xml file that decodes your rom file, once you have the xml file copy it into the rommetadata folder. open the definition XML file for that ROM ID that you just downloaded and add the following line just before the </rom>

<table name="ECU Periphery00 Hex" category="Periphery" address="f9a" type="1D" level="2" scaling="Hex16"/>
<table name="ECU Periphery0 Hex" category="Periphery" address="faa" type="1D" level="2" scaling="Hex16"/>
<table name="ECU Periphery1 Hex" category="Periphery" address="fba" type="1D" level="2" scaling="Hex16"/>
<table name="ECU Periphery2 Hex" category="Periphery" address="fca" type="1D" level="2" scaling="Hex16"/>
<table name="ECU Periphery3 Hex" category="Periphery" address="fda" type="1D" level="2" scaling="Hex16"/>
<table name="ECU Periphery4 Hex" category="Periphery" address="fea" type="1D" level="2" scaling="Hex16"/>

-5- Open EcuFlash, open the saved Evo ROM and look under the "Misc" category for the periphery bits.
-5a- click the little checkbox beside the ones you want to change, and it will pop up in a little window. Click the edit then select all , click edit then change. Put the below information into your ecu...
-6- Change Periphery0 to 0x56D2

other Periphry0 codes (im currently running the 56D0)
56D0 -No rear O2 no Immobilizer
5650-no rear O2, No immobilizer, No knock
5658-no rear O2, No knock sensor
56D8-no rear O2
5698, no front or rear 02
5690, no front 02, rear 02, or immobilizer
56D2, No immobilizer

-7- Change Periphery2 to 0x0DDF

- Changes a few things to not supported within the obdII scan when you get your car inspected , and allows you to clean up all the little vacume lines and solenoids hanging on the back of the intake manifold. It gets rid of all these CEL's P0443 , P0446 , P0403 , P0243 , P0090 , P2263 , P0450 , P0451 , P0452 , P0453 , P0441 , P0442 if your throwing any of them...

-7a- Change Periphery3 to 0xC0C0
-7b- Change Periphery4 to 0xFE00

- Now the wastegate solenoid and fuel solenoid are disabled in the ECU. Without this step you will trip codes P0243 and P0090 for the missing solenoids.

-8- add the following values to make the evo ecu understand the 4g64 engine properly

-9- use the Save as and make an alternate filename that way you will always have a copy of the original , then write the ROM to the Evo ECU.

The car should start and Idle now...From here you will need to do some datalogging and tuning to get your Lancer dialed in for the fuel and ignition tables.
this is done with a wideband, and a datalogger...
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DarkMitsu's 4g64 Swap Page-trans-top.jpg  
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Last edited by darkmitsu; Sep 13, 2009 at 10:28 AM.
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Old Aug 31, 2009, 06:19 PM   #6
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Damn dude, I can't wait to see a video for this.
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Old Aug 31, 2009, 09:34 PM   #7
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sticky sticky sticky sticky
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Old Aug 31, 2009, 09:42 PM   #8
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GOOOOOOOOOD SHIIIIIIIIIIIET!!!

thank GOD someone has started this!!!

im literally at the edge of my seat...fighting back tears
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Old Aug 31, 2009, 09:49 PM   #9
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I told you I was working on it, I just needed to do months of reading your 40 page thread, over and over and over and over... hours and hours of reading on other forums, I'm working on making this a step by step on this page... oh and the video link of it running is posted as well took over 3 hours to upload it... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhV_tWpII7o
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Old Aug 31, 2009, 09:51 PM   #10
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sticky...stiCKY...sTICKY...STICKY!!!

SSSSSSSSSSSSSSTICKY!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Aug 31, 2009, 09:55 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkmitsu View Post
I told you I was working on it, I just needed to do months of reading your 40 page thread, over and over and over and over... hours and hours of reading on other forums, I'm working on making this a step by step on this page... oh and the video link of it running is posted as well took over 3 hours to upload it... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhV_tWpII7o
so where are you at as far as cost goes?

ITS ALLAAAAAAAIIIIIIIIIIIIIVE!!!!
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Old Aug 31, 2009, 10:03 PM   #12
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Parts list for the swap

850$ whole totaled 2002 mitsubishi eclipse gs
240$ lancer evolution ECU
165$ Tactrix cable
50$ exedy clutch kit
100$ engine oil, oil filter, transmission fluid , valve cover gasket/plug seals , oil pan gasket, ect.
50$ 10 inch 1550cfm radiator fan
50$ metal stock and welding(for custom motor mount)
40$ downpipe mating the eclipse downpipe to the lancer exhaust system ( bring the exhaust shop clips of both pipes)

Grand total : 1545$

Last edited by darkmitsu; Sep 23, 2009 at 07:56 PM.
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Old Sep 1, 2009, 01:17 AM   #13
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Nice write up bro this will be stage 2 for me after installing my turbo kit on my factory engine this will help alot!!!!!!!!!! thank you +100000 for STICKY
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Old Sep 1, 2009, 03:19 AM   #14
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You got lucky with the wrecked eclipse
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Old Sep 1, 2009, 04:27 PM   #15
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The trans code is F5M42-2F6ND, not K5M422F6ND to eliminate confusion.

Last edited by senate6268; Sep 2, 2009 at 04:32 PM.
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