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Focus RS

Old Aug 16, 2016 | 10:08 PM
  #4471  
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Originally Posted by Abacus
Probably not too hard to improve cooling as long as there is room for an oil cooler and bigger radiator.

300 F .. At stock power! Thats Chernobyl meltdown. I mean Ford has been working on this car for years. So much engineering and the car wants to split atoms in few laps. Thats terrible. Wonder what the water temps were. Typically the cooling system is over engineered so they have less engine issues in the long run. I just don't see how something so important was just checked off the list as "Eh, Good enough man"

Hard to say if the RDU can be plumbed for a cooler, also if there is even enough room for a cooler large enough to keep that little diff cool. Also, there is no temp sensor, so the heat induced shut down is purely an algorithm. So even with a cooler, the AWD module will likely need to hacked so this algorithm can be overridden or removed. Then a real temp sensor with a gauge would need to be installed so the driver can monitor diff temps since temps seem to be an issue.

Point taken but, again Ford engineered a car that was going to be " Beefed up where it counts " and a few laps in its neutered into a FWD car dragging its rear wheels around. Again, another "its good enough" check mark.

That small part, now that I have looked more closely, is where the shaft goes into the CV joint. The OEM 3 piece shaft on the Evo has a similar neck down going into the CV joint. Makes me wonder how small the Evo one is.

point taken

Undersized diffs are hard to keep cool. Even with a big cooler (if there is space), you can easily get into thermal run away.

Yep,bigger stuff usually takes more abuse also ( gear size,shape,capacity )

It looks like this torsion arm could be replaced with a tubular link with a spherical bearing at one or both ends. It is only there to locate the tire front to back, so it could be made pretty light weight. This was a modification done to those early VW's the author mentioned.

Could be replaced? Why didn't Ford's 40K Focus get a nice aluminum rear suspension to save weight and function better.

255 or 265/35r18's would probably be pretty good. If they can be made to fit. The FoST can fit 275's, need someone to test fitment on the RS.

Cool looking, but no one likes boat anchors at each corner. lol

Everyone should expect that out of the PSS's, they're really just a street tire.

Responded to the above.
For the record, I really like Ford products and think they do a great job overall. Well, except for body modules but thats another subject.

I'm not arguing either, I'm just disappointed in Ford's baby. No one likes to hear their baby is ugly but c'mon they could've done better IMO.
Yea 300* oil temps are bad. It'll take a really good, probably decent sized oil cooler to keep up. And yes, for them to that bad at stock poer levels doesn't bode well for keeping them cool when the car is turned up. Coolant temp would have to assessed once oil temps are under control. 300* oil temp is going to bring water temp up with it. Get oil down to 200-220 and water temps will be much better.

I am also flabbergasted with rear diff. For ford to think that its acceptable is insane. I was just discussing the feasability of even trying to get it to work...

That rear suspension I have the same feelings towards as the rear diff, it's baffling. Again, I was just discussing how it could be fixed.

265's on an 18x9.5 aren't boat anchors. My Konig milligrams are 19.5lbs. The 265 re11 are 27lbs, putting me 46.5lbs for the wheel/tire. Not too bad. I could save a pound by going to rpf1's, but they're my street wheels. I have 17x10 rpf1's for track duty.
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 10:29 PM
  #4472  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Yea 300* oil temps are bad. It'll take a really good, probably decent sized oil cooler to keep up. And yes, for them to that bad at stock poer levels doesn't bode well for keeping them cool when the car is turned up. Coolant temp would have to assessed once oil temps are under control. 300* oil temp is going to bring water temp up with it. Get oil down to 200-220 and water temps will be much better.

I am also flabbergasted with rear diff. For ford to think that its acceptable is insane. I was just discussing the feasability of even trying to get it to work...

That rear suspension I have the same feelings towards as the rear diff, it's baffling. Again, I was just discussing how it could be fixed.

265's on an 18x9.5 aren't boat anchors. My Konig milligrams are 19.5lbs. The 265 re11 are 27lbs, putting me 46.5lbs for the wheel/tire. Not too bad. I could save a pound by going to rpf1's, but they're my street wheels. I have 17x10 rpf1's for track duty.
I doubt you'll be seeing oil temps that low with track duty on nearly any car, with upgraded radiators and oil coolers... unless your oil cooler is the size of your radiator.

I researched this for almost every car I looked into when I was trying to decide which track car to buy, the acceptable track oil temp seams to be in the mid to high 200's. 300 is the line where the cheaper modern synthetics start to boil and break down, so thats where most people draw the line.

here's a fun little vid at 400...
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 06:49 AM
  #4473  
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250+ really isn't acceptable to me. You need more cooler and/or a bigger sump if you're running temps that high.

I've said this in other threads; the trophy truck I used to help with ran oil temps in the 190* range. It had a decent sized Setrab cooler, and a 12qt dry sump for a 440ci ls based Chevy motor that made 900hp. Proper oil temps are attainable with the proper setup.

I'm not saying dry sump is the way to go, but a proper cooler with good ducting goes a long way. My friends Evo 9 with the stock cooler can go about 15 minute on track before oil temps start to creep up over 250, a cool down lap gets it down to 240, and he can go another 2-3 laps before it gets over 250 again. His car is simple bolt on tuned on pump gas.
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 07:21 AM
  #4474  
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My Evo 8 would do about 250-270F oil temps after about 4 laps, then I would run a cool down lap and do another two laps.

Stock oil cooler but upgraded radiator. If it was over 100F ambient half the above quoted laps.

Check out this AWESOME thread about getting a C7 Z06 to actually be able to lap without going into limp mode. Stock oil temps where north of 300.

http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49484
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 08:33 AM
  #4475  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
250+ really isn't acceptable to me. You need more cooler and/or a bigger sump if you're running temps that high.

I've said this in other threads; the trophy truck I used to help with ran oil temps in the 190* range. It had a decent sized Setrab cooler, and a 12qt dry sump for a 440ci ls based Chevy motor that made 900hp. Proper oil temps are attainable with the proper setup.

I'm not saying dry sump is the way to go, but a proper cooler with good ducting goes a long way. My friends Evo 9 with the stock cooler can go about 15 minute on track before oil temps start to creep up over 250, a cool down lap gets it down to 240, and he can go another 2-3 laps before it gets over 250 again. His car is simple bolt on tuned on pump gas.
Sure you can get down to below 250, but that usually means spending a decent chunk more money, and dealing with the pain of finding the space and proper venting for a big oil cooler.. 250 is perfectly fine for any quality modern synthetic. It too high for coolant temp cause that's pushing you into blown head gasket territory, but it's fine for oil.

I can see trophy trucks running much cooler oil temps... Because of where they race they kinda need massively overbuilt cooling systems, but they also have the space for it.

Do you monitor oil temps on your car when you track? Are your temps really in the 200-220 range?
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 08:40 AM
  #4476  
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Originally Posted by razorlab
My Evo 8 would do about 250-270F oil temps after about 4 laps, then I would run a cool down lap and do another two laps.

Stock oil cooler but upgraded radiator. If it was over 100F ambient half the above quoted laps.

Check out this AWESOME thread about getting a C7 Z06 to actually be able to lap without going into limp mode. Stock oil temps where north of 300.

http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49484
All of that is equally (if not more) unacceptable than the FoRS's cooling issues. Leave to GM to put a way underbuilt turd. At least the FoRS doesn't have intercooling issues. The amount of work they had to do just for the air-water intercooler is insane. But I guess that is what is takes to keep 650hp cool. The radiator issue comes to down to there not being enough room for one large radiator. But that is ****ty. Buy a $90-$100k car, then you need to buy a $12,780 cooling system setup (per pricing on their website) for it to survive on track.
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 08:44 AM
  #4477  
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Originally Posted by warmmilk
Sure you can get down to below 250, but that usually means spending a decent chunk more money, and dealing with the pain of finding the space and proper venting for a big oil cooler.. 250 is perfectly fine for any quality modern synthetic. It too high for coolant temp cause that's pushing you into blown head gasket territory, but it's fine for oil.

I can see trophy trucks running much cooler oil temps... Because of where they race they kinda need massively overbuilt cooling systems, but they also have the space for it.

Do you monitor oil temps on your car when you track? Are your temps really in the 200-220 range?
No, I don't have an oil temp gauge in my car, but I'm sure they're too hot with the power the red provides in the track tune. I never used to worry about it on the stock turbo. After the last track day I'm not doing another one until I have an upgraded cooler, racefab pan, and a better radiator. The car ran pretty toasty. Oil was brown and smelled a little burnt when I drained it, never had that before. Also had the oil light flickering at idle after session's, never had that before either.


Once I start monitoring oil temp, I will work to keep it below 230. Trophy trucks have big cooling systems to keep the motor alive, not simply because they have the room.
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 09:01 AM
  #4478  
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this whole concept of selling a product advertised as X, but in reality it can only be X for a very short period of time before it will fail, but instead of letting it fail you put it into gimp mode so you don't have to warranty the failure seems like a very poor engineering practice. This happens all the time in the electronics industry, you will see an amp advertised as 1000w peak, but in reality it can only handle that for half a second. You know the engineers don't want to be putting their names on this crap, its all the god damn bean counters fault.
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 02:55 PM
  #4479  
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Originally Posted by razorlab
My Evo 8 would do about 250-270F oil temps after about 4 laps, then I would run a cool down lap and do another two laps.

Stock oil cooler but upgraded radiator. If it was over 100F ambient half the above quoted laps.

Check out this AWESOME thread about getting a C7 Z06 to actually be able to lap without going into limp mode. Stock oil temps where north of 300.

http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49484
That's right where mine runs, on a pretty cool day. I'm not looking forward to trying 100*+ temps. I do have a 50% larger sump, so that should help. I'm trying my hardest to get to the track, but time and funds are not permitting.
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 03:11 PM
  #4480  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
AAt least the FoRS doesn't have intercooling issues.
Yes it does, just like every Ecoboost. FMIC should be the first upgrade.
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 03:26 PM
  #4481  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
All of that is equally (if not more) unacceptable than the FoRS's cooling issues. Leave to GM to put a way underbuilt turd. At least the FoRS doesn't have intercooling issues. The amount of work they had to do just for the air-water intercooler is insane. But I guess that is what is takes to keep 650hp cool. The radiator issue comes to down to there not being enough room for one large radiator. But that is ****ty. Buy a $90-$100k car, then you need to buy a $12,780 cooling system setup (per pricing on their website) for it to survive on track.
I think part of the issue is that the SC is too small for how much air its pushing. I've heard stories about people putting the 2.3L TVS units on there (think stock is 1.7 or 1.9) and running less boost to make the same power but run cooler. Given the price of the cooling system upgrade, the blower swap isn't that crazy of an idea...
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 03:53 PM
  #4482  
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had unsubbed this thread but interesting to keep tabs on this kind of stuff
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 04:25 PM
  #4483  
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Originally Posted by warmmilk
I think part of the issue is that the SC is too small for how much air its pushing. I've heard stories about people putting the 2.3L TVS units on there (think stock is 1.7 or 1.9) and running less boost to make the same power but run cooler. Given the price of the cooling system upgrade, the blower swap isn't that crazy of an idea...
That makes perfect sense. That's the ONLY reason i went up a turbo size. I wanted to stress the car (especially the turbo) less. Same CFM, less heat
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 04:42 PM
  #4484  
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Originally Posted by kaj
That makes perfect sense. That's the ONLY reason i went up a turbo size. I wanted to stress the car (especially the turbo) less. Same CFM, less heat
yeah, completely makes sense, but when I first heard about it I thought it was a bit crazy mostly cause of how much an SC costs... but after seeing how much vendors want for cooling solutions, all of the sudden it doesn't seam as crazy anymore
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by warmmilk
yeah, completely makes sense, but when I first heard about it I thought it was a bit crazy mostly cause of how much an SC costs... but after seeing how much vendors want for cooling solutions, all of the sudden it doesn't seam as crazy anymore
Find the weakness...exploit it... make money
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