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Old Mar 13, 2017 | 01:22 PM
  #241  
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Originally Posted by honda-guy
i doubt the higher spring rates bent the rear shaft, there must be something else going on. i know cars that run much higher spring rates on coilovers and never heard of springs bending shock shaft.

on the inverted strut, the top "shaft" is actually the shock body, and the shaft in inside at the bottom. hence inverted shock.

Springs can put a side load on the shock. Stiffer springs create more of a side load.
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Old Mar 13, 2017 | 09:33 PM
  #242  
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Would alignments impact this at all?
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Old Mar 20, 2017 | 12:47 PM
  #243  
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I am EXTREMELY sorry about that... I bumped another thread I certainly didn't mean to... honestly, it's EXTREMELY embarrassing.

Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Nice man. Definitely won't regret it.



Thanks for spamming the thread...
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Old Apr 4, 2017 | 11:34 AM
  #244  
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Posted in the other thread, but I wanted to put this in here as well for anyone searching threads in the future..


After finally tracking my car with the ohlins, and having cheap coilovers on my car, as well as riding in other cars with similarly priced options, IMO, the Ohlin's are the only choice in the sub $3000 bracket, especially if the car is also a street car.


The car was flat out hooked up, all weekend. I'm sure the new alignment helped, as well as the top plates for more caster from Dallas. But I got multiple comments and questions about my car's setup from people watching me on track, and see my car staying stable with wheels moving under it soaking up bumps. As well as people talking about bumps in certain turns upsetting their car, and me simply having no idea what they're talking about because my car just wasn't getting upset.


Also my car is still on stock sway bars front and rear, and I'm still debating if I actually even need them. The Ohlins kept body roll very well controlled, and the car had GREAT balance.


Also, the snap oversteer with throttle lift the car previously had, is now gone. Adjusting corner exit line is now a breeze with throttle modulation. As well as adjusting the line in sweepers or double apex corner. The car simply works, and does what you ask of it as long as the tires can do it. I'm probably happier with the purchase of these ohlins than I was with the turbo upgrade. The suspension is that good.
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Old Apr 4, 2017 | 11:47 AM
  #245  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone

Also, the snap oversteer with throttle lift the car previously had, is now gone. Adjusting corner exit line is now a breeze with throttle modulation. As well as adjusting the line in sweepers or double apex corner. The car simply works, and does what you ask of it as long as the tires can do it. I'm probably happier with the purchase of these ohlins than I was with the turbo upgrade. The suspension is that good.
This was/is my same experience. The car is so well-mannered on track now that I can concentrate more on line adjustment instead of feeling anxious the car might get upset.

The best analogy I could think of is that the car now acts like a go-kart, in that I can now give a bunch of steering input and fine tweaks to refine my line constantly without upsetting the car.

With my previous setup, I could do that once and then have to work on getting the car back in line.

Overall the car feels fluid and like a scalpel now, where before it felt nervous and more of a sledge hammer.

It's probably my best purchase I have made with any of my cars for the last twenty years.
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Old Apr 4, 2017 | 12:58 PM
  #246  
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im so excited to get my car on the track with the DFV. you guys are making my mouth water.
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Old Apr 5, 2017 | 12:54 PM
  #247  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone

Also my car is still on stock sway bars front and rear, and I'm still debating if I actually even need them. The Ohlins kept body roll very well controlled, and the car had GREAT balance.
Watch out talking like that you may start sounding as crazy as me.
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Old Apr 5, 2017 | 01:10 PM
  #248  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Posted in the other thread, but I wanted to put this in here as well for anyone searching threads in the future..


After finally tracking my car with the ohlins, and having cheap coilovers on my car, as well as riding in other cars with similarly priced options, IMO, the Ohlin's are the only choice in the sub $3000 bracket, especially if the car is also a street car.


The car was flat out hooked up, all weekend. I'm sure the new alignment helped, as well as the top plates for more caster from Dallas. But I got multiple comments and questions about my car's setup from people watching me on track, and see my car staying stable with wheels moving under it soaking up bumps. As well as people talking about bumps in certain turns upsetting their car, and me simply having no idea what they're talking about because my car just wasn't getting upset.


Also my car is still on stock sway bars front and rear, and I'm still debating if I actually even need them. The Ohlins kept body roll very well controlled, and the car had GREAT balance.


Also, the snap oversteer with throttle lift the car previously had, is now gone. Adjusting corner exit line is now a breeze with throttle modulation. As well as adjusting the line in sweepers or double apex corner. The car simply works, and does what you ask of it as long as the tires can do it. I'm probably happier with the purchase of these ohlins than I was with the turbo upgrade. The suspension is that good.
awesome to hear - can you preface a little with the setup? haven't been paying super close attention - spring rates, custom valved/stock valved, number of clicks you were running?
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Old Apr 5, 2017 | 01:15 PM
  #249  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Also my car is still on stock sway bars front and rear, and I'm still debating if I actually even need them. The Ohlins kept body roll very well controlled, and the car had GREAT balance.
Originally Posted by ReaperX
Watch out talking like that you may start sounding as crazy as me.
So consider this, more rear bar increases front grip (less work on outside front, more work on inside front). So if you have overhead for more rear bar in your current balance, then you want to use more rear bar. Goal would be to find the point of too much bar then back off.

Edit: Front bar, if youre happy with front roll leave that thang stock. Maybe put on cusco bracket and see what full stiff and full soft feels like. Maybe you like it even softer, maybe you don't
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Old Apr 5, 2017 | 01:21 PM
  #250  
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Originally Posted by kyoo
awesome to hear - can you preface a little with the setup? haven't been paying super close attention - spring rates, custom valved/stock valved, number of clicks you were running?

Perrin offset PSRS, SSB Design (Dallas J) offset top hat, Whiteline RCK, Rear trailing arms are using a poly bushing for chassis attachment. 255/40r17 NT01's an 17x10 RPF1's. ER ACD tune, TRE max lock rear diff. RS front diff (my tcase with the wavetrac diff is blowed up. Saving pesos to get the ring and pinion replaced). 10k front springs (original ohlins springs), 700lb rear springs. Rear dampers valved accordingly. 8 clicks out from full stiff.


Camber was set to -3f/-2r, Caster +6.8L/+6.6R, 0 toe all around.

Originally Posted by Dallas J
So consider this, more rear bar increases front grip (less work on outside front, more work on inside front). So if you have overhead for more rear bar in your current balance, then you want to use more rear bar. Goal would be to find the point of too much bar then back off.

Edit: Front bar, if youre happy with front roll leave that thang stock. Maybe put on cusco bracket and see what full stiff and full soft feels like. Maybe you like it even softer, maybe you don't
Increases front grip would be nice, but I would want rear grip to go up with it.
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Old Apr 5, 2017 | 01:25 PM
  #251  
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I would say body roll is pretty good.
Attached Thumbnails Coilover questions-photo870.jpg  
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Old Apr 5, 2017 | 01:44 PM
  #252  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
I would say body roll is pretty good.
You are just too slow!
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Old Apr 5, 2017 | 01:46 PM
  #253  
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Awesome photo!
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Old Apr 5, 2017 | 02:01 PM
  #254  
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Originally Posted by MrAWD
You are just too slow!
Lol too slow or not enough tire

But and then again I think you'll see a lot more roll from an auto-x car vs something on track where the corners are cambered and things of that nature. Nonetheless awesome pic; love the mountains in the background!
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Old Apr 5, 2017 | 02:14 PM
  #255  
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Damn yo. Got me all worked up on getting some Ohlins now! Spend the extra $750-1k instead of getting some of the more common named ones that have been discussed elsewhere and just be done with it!

letsgetthisdone, I may have missed it but what spring rates you running front and rear?
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