Yeah, and driving skill is 100X more important, so be sure to maximize time on course/track over mods if money is a limiting factor.

 

To a point. I've driven a car that was set up poorly (followed bad internet advice. Oops) and The thing was dang near dangerous LOL

 

Nothing here is getting over complicated. We're not talking about changing suspension compenents to change geometry or modifying the front end to ditch the mac strut and go to an SLA suspension (that's the other thread )

While I do agree, my car is in need of new coilovers. The stance supersports that are on it have ~35k miles on them and while they still work fine for street duty, they show their age when asked to go to work on track or at an autocross. And having a proper suspension setup is a little different than taking a built motor 600whp car to the track for your first track day. Even a noob can benefit from the more predictable handling of a proper coilover/swaybar/alignment set up over stock.

 

That good to hear Sean

I myself am making my own lower control arms, drastically modifying the roll centers & running some serious out of range caster to overcome my poor driving skills

 

I assume that means you're making a spherical bearing and stud for the ball joint? Do be careful with extended studs and make sure you do some sort of surface hardening. There's a stress concentration right where the stud meets the upright and my models have the WL ball joint if it were just 4130 starting to see failure loads around 2000lbs. That would be different with some additional heat treatments but its not something I'd want to rely on.

If you research back there's a comparison to the Moonface ball joint, WL, and stock. Moonface is longer than WL, which is only about 5mm longer than stock, and the few people that have raced with it have had failures. And don't forget that before something becomes a failure it becomes a spring.

Also don't forget about your Bump Steer if you're adding caster. Tilting the upright moves relative position of tie rod and ball joint closer together which will give you bump toe-in. That one is harder to correct though moving ball joint down is obviously helping that one. Lever arm for steering is about 6" and stock caster is 3.5deg, adding another 3.5deg (easy enough to do) will mean relative joint change of 6*tan(3.5) = 0.36" = 9.3mm.

 

Is it just me or was Joe's comment sarcastic?

Either way Dallas keep doing what youre doing; I love learning about this stuff and once I get more serious, and get myself a truck I can see some of these ideas you're coming up with on my car

 

but what wheels are those??

 

Settle down 14 spoke boy those are just some RPF1's, in motion

 

+1 for understanding your old buddy Joe

& +1 for our suspension guru "Dallas"

 

lol!

going back to lifting a wheel, given we have clutch type rear diffs, any issue? it may not be technically ideal, but forcing a tire to stay on the ground when nearly all the weight is off of it doesn't sound ideal as far as what you'd have to do with the suspension

 

 

RPFs

My diff used to lock and let the rear step out, where I wanted it to (Same course, last year). Now, RPMs rise, car goes nowhere.
😕

 

You typically will overload the opposite front corner which will lead to push when you lift one of the rear tires.

 

isn't it the other way around? lifting one rear is a result of what's happening, not a cause

 

Not getting this one...part about overloading opposite corner and creating a push?

When one of your corners gets more than total diagonal weight, you will end up lifting the other end. But, by getting more than a diagonal weight on one corner, does't mean car will loose grip on that end. If your suspension is still operating properly and there is no bottoming out or creating so much sway in the body that you end up running +2 degrees of camber on that end for example, I don't see how you would loose grip on that side!