I never got bars because, as stated before, the car could already be twitchy and unpredictable with the Chinese coilovers. It also has pretty decent balance. Part of holding off now is I do want to do one thing at once, feel the change, and go from there. The other part is that Ciro front brackets and links for the FSB, and a complete WL 24mm RSB setup are on my Christmas list...hahaha

 

A bit of rear toe-in, 1/8-1/4" total, will help a lot in stability. Also helps in putting the power down coming out of corners. Its downright necessary for a mine in the upper 400hp range to actually put power down without just big sideways action.

 

I've never had an issue with that. I mean, the casr can get ****ty, but never anything uncontrollable. I'll keep in mind though, may give it a try.


It's the car's tendency to push in steady state corners, and it likes to snap oversteer when coming out of the throttle in decreasing radius corners, or for the second apex of a double apex corner.

 

Stock bars are plenty capable depending on spring rates, and honestly I think going up in bar size is a waste. But to each his own.

 

Stock bars are puny once you quadrupled your spring rate. But do you even know what proportion of roll your bars are contributing?

 

The sway bar has to be able to hold the higher spring rate compressed on the inside wheel. They have to be matched to your springs rates (to an extent), or the higher spring rate will just shove through the bar and let the inside suspension extend, allowing body roll.

 

I'd say you're definitely gonna need a RSB. I even needed one with my 9k/11k springs. Stock rear sway bar may help explain the steady-state push?

 

Could be. But I never wanted to pull the trigger because of that snap oversteer issue. So, we'll see what legit dampers do and go from there. PSI said they should have kit from Ohlins by end of the week, and they are 2-3 weeks lead time for the revalve right now. So I'll have the kit around end of December.

 

If youre having snap anything issues, while you have things apart start moving anything that needs to move. If you have a seized or just really tight bushing in the control arms or swaybars it could cause that issue. Also, while youre in there if you feel your swaybars are really tight, add some shims between the clamps and frame to loosen it up. The bushing shouldn't be squishing the bar so it should rotate with pretty minimal effort.

 

Every thing on my car move as it should, I've checked that.


By snap, I mean it needs fairly fast 1/2-3/4 turn of countersteer to catch the car. Idk how else to describe it...lol

 

I've never had snap oversteer in my car. 'Always very predictable. I had my sway bar installed with my 8k/9k springs, now that I think of it.

That's weird. Now I'm really curious.

 

Yeah I've only had snap oversteer issues when I had something that suddenly bound up. On one car it was tires hitting fenders and my buddies car was when we were fighting a seized control arm bushing.

 

Sorry, Sam, I missed your post. Yes, I got Ohlins RT's. 10k/12.5k. I did the math on them, it's the exact same ratio as stock springs, 25% stiffer in the rear. I think it'll be fine.

My car has has the ER ACD tune for over a year now.

 

I swear you posted something about adding caster (front suspension) causes toe-in bumpsteer and will make the car twitchy. I can't find the post now, but I noticed this after installing the offset PSRS in my car. Is their a remedy for this besides your uprights? IE, using a stock tierod end with with the WL RCK, or using a hiem outer tierod end to adjust bumpsteer with shims?

 

Adding caster causes toe-out in bump. Basically dropping the tie rod in its ark vs the ball joint. Off the top of my head the steering arm was around 6" long so you can compare what you would need to stock based on how much caster you add. So 1.5deg added caster would end up being tan(1.5)*6in * 25.4 = ~4mm of adjustment (shorter on the tie rod or longer on the ball joint)

That doesn't take into account that the stock setup already has toe out in bump so adjustability is definitely nice there.