Scientifically speaking, a course that PAXes out to 60 seconds, your car will be 1.633 seconds faster in STU trim than BS.


STU looks like a dump. You've missed the boat on any hope of being competitive on anything but a Pro course, and it'll be marginal there too.


ASP with drivetrain reliability mods will be the hot ticket. I hate that I'm talking myself into ASP again.

 

Absolutely. Make sure you bring an extinguisher next time you go to an event because their pants are on fire.


Mechanical diffs are free in *SP. You are not allowed to tune active differentials though. So if you have a 2005 Evo 8 or a Evo 9, you have to run the stock ACD/software or UD/BD to the 2003-2004 Viscous Coupling Unit.


-Bryan

 

Was this John Pena's car? If so, I think it was a MR Touring with 245 tires. According to the pics from the DC Tour, that car was rolling more heavily than my 99% stock GSR with 265s, even with a heavy front bar. Yeeesh.

 

No, this was a different car. I havn't driven John P's.

 

seeing a good number of evos signed up for nats - good luck!

 

In the process of doing a slow STU Evo X build and this thread seems to focus alot on the 8/9 platform. My main question is wheels, whats the easy go to size that requires minimal work to fit. I am looking at 18x9.75 ET 15. I hear people talking about 10.5s but its all talk and I found alot of wrong information on this board already. Like 275s won't rub on a B-street Evo X....i rub front and rear. lol So in summary has someone in here actually done a STU Evo X that can share some insight on wheels size with 265s along with alignment settings? Thanks in advance.

 

Here is one place to start: EVOm vorshlag motorsports evo x mr build stu

Another one also from the same guys from their own site: vorshlag forum

I am also thinking about this move, so if you could update your progress here it would be great. Since the latest revelation from my last event, I might stick a bit longer with all the BS!

 

I read that blog on two different occasions already and both times left more confused than I think they were before they called it quits. Seems like they changed the car way too much to even try and work on the set up lol. Im not doing anything crazy, the car is uninspiring in B-street form imo and way too soft. My build is intended for local NE events and will just be budget coils and cheap wheels. As time goes on I will slowly upgrade/add parts but I'm just looking to have fun without destroying 1300 dollar tires in less than a season lol. So far it's 11/13k DGS Fortune Auto coils, gonna go -3.5/-1.8 camber, 0 toe, rear sway and thats about where I'm starting the 2017 season. Basically I wouldn't hold your breath on my "build" lol

 

At least, you will be beating Prime all the time now!! Good luck!

 

Might want to PM an2ny - he has 265s on an X for STU. I don't think he checks here a lot.

 

I have being running my GSR Evo X in STU for a few years now and I have gone through so many different setups trying to find something that works, I feel my car is good and fun at the moment, but the Evo X is just too heavy compared with the other STU cars.

Many people recommend 18x9.5 +15 for the Evo X…not sure why, but those wheels do not fit, you will rub on the rear. (Everything stock) so a lot of the info out there is incorrect for Autox purposes; also the Vorshlag info didn’t really help me at all…
My Fenders are 100% stock, I have been using Enkei PF01 18x9.5 +35 with RE71-R 265 and fitment is good, they are not flush, you still have room for a lower offset but the rear may be a problem, I think the rear can take +30, but unless you find some good or custom wheels with a specific offset, you may have to use spacers at one end, also you could have front clearance issues against the Shocks/ springs with the higher offset wheels depending on the suspension you run and how you achieve camber (bolts or plates) so like everything, there are way too many variables.

My current wheel/ tire set up:
Front: Bridgestone RE-71 R 265; Enkei PF01 18x9.5 +35 with a 12mm spacer moving the offset to +23 (to clear the front shocks)
Rear: Bridgestone RE-71 R 265; Enkei PF01 18x9.5 +35

 

Thanks for the info. I'm most likely going to end up with 18x9.75 ET20 and roll the rear fender a bit to assure clearance. What suspension are you running that you had issues with shock clearance on the front?

 

an2ny, what spring rates would you recommend to start with?

 

You may be ok with those as far as front shocks clearance, but rear fenders may be a problem depending on the rest of your set up.

Of the top of my head.

-Stock suspension --- Enkei PF01 18x9.5 +35 & 245s tires: no issues at all.

-Stock suspension & lowering springs (½ inch) --- Enkei PF01 18x9.5 +35 & 245s tires: no issues at all.

-KWs V3 --- Enkei PF01 18x9.5 +35 & 245s tires: no issues at all.

-KWs V3 with front and rear bolt on spacers making the final offset +15 --- Enkei PF01 18x9.5 +35 & 245s tires: rubbing on the rear, front was fine.

-KWs V3 (front) stock camber bolt flipped to about -2 --- Enkei PF01 18x9.5 +35 & 245s tires: no issues at all.

-KWs V3 (front) aftermarket camber bolt set to about -2.5 --- Enkei PF01 18x9.5 +35 & 245s tires: getting close to the shocks but enough clearance however I needed more camber.

-KWs V3 (front) stock camber bolt (you cannot have 2 adjustments in STU) and Vorshlag camber plates maxed out about -2.8 --- Enkei PF01 18x9.5 +35 & 245s tires: however I need more camber, one option is to reduce caster with the Vorshlag plates to achieve more camber.

-Ohlin’s (front) stock camber bolts set to about -1 and Ohlin’s camber plates set to about -3.2--- Enkei PF01 18x9.5 +35 & 245s tires: some rubbing at the spring so I had to reduce camber from the bolt and add a 5mm spacer, making the offset +30.

-Ohlin’s (front) stock camber bolts set to about -1 and Vorshlag camber plates maxed out to about -2.3--- Enkei PF01 18x9.5 +35 & 245s tires: rubbing at the shocks, I had to reduce camber from the bolt and add a 5mm spacer, making the offset +30. But -2.3 is not enough and flipping the bolt was not an option….

-Ohlin’s (front) stock camber bolts set to about -1 and Vorshlag camber & Caster plates maxed out to about -3.3--- Enkei PF01 18x9.5 +35 & 265s tires: now rubbing at the shocks/ springs was worse so, I had to add longer studs and use a 12mm spacer making the offset +23 I had to reduce camber from the bolt: clearance is good now.


Other: I went through many different spring rates, height adjustment, suspension settings, sway bars… so the front shock point of contact changed a bit making the rubbing issue worse/ better.
I rather gain camber from the hub (bolt) than on top (plates), Vorshlag plates gives you a good amount of caster, but by design restricts camber. I even tried pushing the shock top nut against the shock mount opening, but the bolt will come loose  so clearance is needed therefore additional camber restriction.
I would like more front camber, but I am maxed out at the moment; I could flip the bolt and add a bigger spacer or reduce caster (rather not) to gain more camber on the plates. At one point I probably had about -3.5 and braking was bad, ABS was coming on all the time and the car didn’t stop well at all, but I had a different set up all around (springs/ bar/ shocks etc) so it may work better now.

 

there's some real discussion about allowing open boost going on at the sandbox for ST classes - any thoughts on that from the crew here? can't imagine disagreement, though the flip side of the dichotomy being considered is no tune