When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Looks about height and width of my AMS. I'm gonna see about swapping and see how it does. My AMS is a friggin tank. I'll weigh it tonight, out of curiosity.
Maybe I am using the wrong terminology here? I thought HF start allows you to essentially depress the foot pedal while holding the torch close and it starts the arc without actually touching the work piece vs scratch stand and/or lift arc where you need to touch to complete the circuit as if you were stick welding.
Now maybe its difference being that my machine is a multiprocess welder however its in essence a MIG machine but nonetheless its an inverter machine. However if you want to TIG with it, there isnt HF start but rather you do scratch start or lift arc depending on which setting you have the machine on.
aha, ok, might be because you have a multiprocess welder.. but from the TIG machines I have seen, most if not all inverters had HF start..
IMHO having a AC/DC machine is nice if you ever want to do alu.. and on a car you really want to have that option (nice for IC tubing etc..)
I bought a 160A AC/DC inverter some time ago, was pretty expensive for my hobby use, but I never regretted it... never turned the MIG machine on again..
Thing is,buying the machine is just a start... For doing stainless you will want a second regulator or even a second argon bottle with a regulator for backpurging.
Having different torches is also nice.. I have a separate one for aluminum, as it can be a bit dirty on occasion..
For stainless I have a flex torch with LARGE pyrex cup, and another small flex-loc torch, both with gas lens... (damn CK worldwide take all my money)...
Weight reduction you say?
Im about to start figuring out what metal is nonessential and cutting away. What would be the best way to do this? Plasma cutter? Also do you guys know where I could get some Lexan windows? Not the kit, but the material itself so I can cut my own? The kits are too expensive.
aha, ok, might be because you have a multiprocess welder.. but from the TIG machines I have seen, most if not all inverters had HF start..
IMHO having a AC/DC machine is nice if you ever want to do alu.. and on a car you really want to have that option (nice for IC tubing etc..)
I bought a 160A AC/DC inverter some time ago, was pretty expensive for my hobby use, but I never regretted it... never turned the MIG machine on again..
Thing is,buying the machine is just a start... For doing stainless you will want a second regulator or even a second argon bottle with a regulator for backpurging.
Having different torches is also nice.. I have a separate one for aluminum, as it can be a bit dirty on occasion..
For stainless I have a flex torch with LARGE pyrex cup, and another small flex-loc torch, both with gas lens... (damn CK worldwide take all my money)...
That is probably it. Yes, my machine can TIG however the reality is that it's a MIG welder that has TIG capability.
And all very true in that buying the welder is the tip of the iceberg. TIG is probably the worst in that regards with different torches different tungsten different cups bottles regulators etc.
But at least the gas is fairly consistant helium or argon. With my MIG I have 2 80cuft bottles now one C25 and the other trimix for welding SS. Say I want to do the spoolgun for AL I need a 3rd bottle of argon. I love welding I find it to be tons of fun and always awesome the amount of flexibility you get being that you can glue pieces of metal together. I was mounting a TV over my fireplace a couple months back and wanted it centered. There was a stud directly centered over the fireplace and the bracket was only 32" wide so I was only going to be able to lag it to two studs and thus it would be off center. I could have just went on amazon and ordered a wider bracket to hit 3 studs but instead I cut the bracket in half and welded in an extension. Hour of work and boom #customtvmount
I hit up Evasive to see if they would price match that RHDJapan on one of the Blitz FMICs. They said they can't, as the "shipped price" doesn't include taxes and customs duties that I would be charged later.
Has anyone had to order parts from overseas before? RHDJapan is about $110 cheaper than Evasive. I guess that would explain why?
Looks like I have a buyer for my AMS FMIC and will order the Blitz SE to report the results.
AMS: 508X304X88.9
Blitz: 620 x 266 x 76
If the AMS unit were 3" like I wanted then the Blitz would actually be larger. Blitz is rated at 500ps/490hp/400whpish. I'm at 450whp, so will be interesting.
I got one from FRSport. Seems they are a U.S. Blitz distributor. I got the last one. Everyone else quoted me 2-3mos shipping.
F that. I lucked out because I had already sold the AMS. hahahah
Seeing that you guys have fab skillz any interest in building me an intercooler? If not, Im going to have to find a competent local fabricator as I can't weld AL. Very interested lets make it happen!!
Thanks for the link. Bought what I believe are the last two cores he had!
Originally Posted by Dallas J
The amount of work it would take to making something good would certainly be more costly than just buying an available intercooler.
I sure hope not haha
Have a duct work software at work for a square to round on the end tanks. Should take more than 30min for cad layout and a few hours for laser/welding. The weight should be worth it. Hoping to cut 10+lbs compared to an "off the shelf" bar and plate.
Fwiw:
i have The first version of AMS's 3.5" fmic, Before they went to cast end tanks.
The Blitz weighs 12lbs, with hardware. It's 3" so lighter is to be expected.
The AMS is 21lbs.
the Blitz has more surface area, which I like. The end tanks should also flow better. It's a nice piece.
everyone and their mom is telling me to keep the AMS piece. We'll see. I'm open minded about it.
looks quite similar to a cheap (but very good) tube and fin core we used on a evo 9 hks build..
that one works really well with minimal temp rise on full throttle runs in 3rd and 4th... so I have no doubts Blitz will work for you..
for my car I got a similar IC but with a bit denser core (more tubes), however that one is only 65 mm thick... if it doesnt work I'll just get a 76 mm version..
Apr 12, 2017, 09:29 PM
