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The Evolution of F-Prepared, Re-build Log.

Old Feb 6, 2018, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
Have you thought about making a quick disconnect tray with a fixed connection point so you can rip it out quickly if theirs an issue? Or quick swap in grid if needed?

The lithium fire I had last year was my fault (dont jump lithium...) but still brought up that it can be pretty volatile.
Much like drag car that run similar setups, I'm sure it will go on a charge in between every run. And he'll probably have to bring spare batteries.
Old Feb 6, 2018, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by wanabgts

4-Increase our ability to cool the car down between runs. We were right on the edge of our cooling system last year in 90+ degree weather. Not we will be able to cycle the electric water pump and fans between runs to help get the temps down quick.

Zack
How much system pressure are these electric pumps able to create? Obviously less system pressure the lower your boiling point of the coolant will be.
Old Feb 6, 2018, 03:51 PM
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what do we have here!?
Old Feb 6, 2018, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
Have you thought about making a quick disconnect tray with a fixed connection point so you can rip it out quickly if theirs an issue? Or quick swap in grid if needed?

The lithium fire I had last year was my fault (dont jump lithium...) but still brought up that it can be pretty volatile.
We will be using a fully enclosed box, we run the same kind of setup with padded boxes in many cars without any problems. In racing RC cars the only lipo fires I ever see are user error, wrong charger, too much current, not balancing cells, trying to jump packs etc. I think they are very safe if not punctured as long as you treat them right.

Yeah we will have a quick plug on the pack, and a quick charge port on the car to bump the packs up in between sessions. We are able to run our drag car over an hour on two of these packs normally, so we should be able to make it work. If not, its almost no penalty to just add another.

I am not sure on pressure with the electric water pump, however they do move 55gpm @ 12v. Every car I have ever put one on does a much better job cooling, especially at low engine speeds. The key feature here is to be able to cool the engine down in grid by just cycling the pump and fan with our pdm to keep a fresh supply of cooled water going into the engine.

Zack
Old Feb 6, 2018, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by wanabgts
We will be using a fully enclosed box, we run the same kind of setup with padded boxes in many cars without any problems. In racing RC cars the only lipo fires I ever see are user error, wrong charger, too much current, not balancing cells, trying to jump packs etc. I think they are very safe if not punctured as long as you treat them right.

Yeah we will have a quick plug on the pack, and a quick charge port on the car to bump the packs up in between sessions. We are able to run our drag car over an hour on two of these packs normally, so we should be able to make it work. If not, its almost no penalty to just add another.

I am not sure on pressure with the electric water pump, however they do move 55gpm @ 12v. Every car I have ever put one on does a much better job cooling, especially at low engine speeds. The key feature here is to be able to cool the engine down in grid by just cycling the pump and fan with our pdm to keep a fresh supply of cooled water going into the engine.

Zack
Cool, assumed you guys have it figured out with your RC and 1/2mi stuff. Really looking forward to checking out all the work in a couple months. Road to Crows starts now!
Old Feb 6, 2018, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
Cool, assumed you guys have it figured out with your RC and 1/2mi stuff. Really looking forward to checking out all the work in a couple months. Road to Crows starts now!
Don't remind me.....I have been spending every extra hour I have knocking out projects. I should be pretty dang good, in theory.

Zack
Old Feb 16, 2018, 04:58 PM
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More work over the last week. Got the Max-lock Detroit Locker out of the back, new OSGiken differential installed. On tearing down the diff I found a couple of the shims had micro welding from vibration during launches and such. Luckily my new bearings had a tiny bit more stack height than the originals, so I was able to flat block the shims down and give the bearings a bit more preload than before. I originally wanted to build a second pumpkin to do back to back testing, but failed to find a decent one for less than a million dollars. So if we break it we are in a pickle for a bit..... This took way too much time to get dialed in but at least I didn't wait till the last minute.



Continued work on the new cooling system after that, got all the -16an stuff in monday and start routing and making a bulkhead plate etc. So far so good, just have to finish making up all the lines. Also made a new expansion tank very high in the engine bay to aid in bleeding the system.





More work tomorrow, just gotta keep knocking out the projects!

Zack
Old Feb 17, 2018, 09:57 AM
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haha, detroit locker? the max lock is not a detroit locker diff, it is a clutch type very much like the os giken.
Old Feb 17, 2018, 12:39 PM
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Have any more pictures of that bulkhead plate? I've been trying to think of something similar for my car but utilizing grommets for wiring.
Old Feb 19, 2018, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by griceiv
haha, detroit locker? the max lock is not a detroit locker diff, it is a clutch type very much like the os giken.
I understand it is a clutch type and that some people have good success with it. In our car it was MUCH to aggressive, even skipping wheels and stuff at low speeds. Most of the setup changes we did were to offset the effects of this diff, so we changed it.

Zack
Old Feb 19, 2018, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by ayoustin
Have any more pictures of that bulkhead plate? I've been trying to think of something similar for my car but utilizing grommets for wiring.
Its a simple aluminum plate, rivet nutted to the firewall.

Zack
Old Feb 19, 2018, 09:28 AM
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More work from the weekend. Got the balance shafts deleted and the engine re-assembled. So easy to work on when the only thing going back on the engine is the dampener. Sorry some of the pics look much blurrier here than they did on my cell phone....




After the engine was squared away we re-installed the drivetrain into the car, it is now technically a roller again!



I got the cooling system almost completely plumbed, and got a lot of things cleaned up in the engine bay to get ready for wiring this week!



All in all I am happy we may actually be able to get the car done in time to make it to our march 30th deadline, just got to keep at it!

Zack
Old Feb 19, 2018, 09:37 AM
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Love the torque spec in marker idea, so simple yet so elegant.
Old Feb 19, 2018, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
Love the torque spec in marker idea, so simple yet so elegant.
Something I learned when I started working on cars with multiple people. It definitely speeds things up when you are just checking things over or changing parts.

Zack
Old Feb 19, 2018, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by wanabgts
I understand it is a clutch type and that some people have good success with it. In our car it was MUCH to aggressive, even skipping wheels and stuff at low speeds. Most of the setup changes we did were to offset the effects of this diff, so we changed it.

Zack
sounds like it was working correctly. Do you plan to do anything about the very aggressive front diff? You may find you have a lot of throttle on understeer with your new solution.

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