I've never see an OEM tensioner come apart. I feel like something hit it.

 

WHAT in the heck happened to it??

 

Hmm. So replaced the bearing in tensioner pulley and noise persists. Going to replace idler pulley for good measure but seems like power steering pump might be next most likely. There is slight shaft play though I dont know if thats normal or not.

It would make a bit of sense since I've had some issues with oil aerating and pushing out the reservoir last couple years.

 

​​​​​​same here, for as long as I can remember. I also have a slight whine.
I could swear I've already swapped the bearing out, but that may have been my last Evo.

 

My P/S pump has whined for years, dreading when it dies.

 

Have also had an OEM tensioner let go but i snapped the edge out of the 1/2 sq drive you twist to pop the belt on and off lol.

Check its not something silly like one of the bolts that holds the cam covers in place hasnt backed out and is touching under the water pump pulley ive had that before.

 

Moving along on G25-660 street tuning, Swapped in a Tial Q, which is so much better than my old valve. I have a tuning question though. With external wastegates, I’m running a big vacuum hose as recommended by Tial from the turbo outlet to the wastegates and now I’ve got my Grimmspeed 3-port in the middle (ecu boost), which is also plumbed with 1/4” lines and new fittings. When the car is on throttle but low boost, I can hear the 3-port leaking air away from the wastegate since I’m using the 100% WGDC feature below X psi (Tephra v7 boost control feature that is supposed to improve spool). I’m thinking that with the big hoses, this is effectively creating a meaningful boost leak that is probably *hurting* spool below wastegate pressure. So, it probably makes sense to not use that feature of the boost control with my setup. Intuitively, I’m not sure why anyone would want to use that since it creates a boost leak as you are trying to spool. Pressure off the wastegate spring is good, but not necessarily outweighed by the boost leak. Is my thinking flawed??

EDIT: Looks like eons ago I set my “min load for boost control” at about 100 kpa (onset of boost). I think that actually should come up to just under wastegate pressure so the 3-port won’t vent anything until it has to.

 

LCA bolts that go through the arms were seized in the subframe and after noticing the bushing failed I decided to just swap the subframe sooner than later and install SSB arms.

 

ooo jealous i need the arms too now. USD to NZD conversion kills me tho haha.

 

Wow. That's a ton of caster. Hasta la vista fender liner
even my PSRS = nom nom nom

 

damn. can u pull the wheel back with a caster plate up top?

 

Yeah, it’s not aligned yet and just kind of guessed where to set it at. Still a lot of room to go back. Already have the 20mm caster plates too.

 

Yep, this is how we roll here. Caster has been a huge help in getting high steering angle grip. My car is even crazier with 30mm offset fixed camber top hats with cut clearance in the strut opening. Kinda thinking about cutting mine even further just to get a bit more camber out of it instead of changing my strut mount again. Or maybe do both .

But Siluck (Phouvahn) came out to Packwood Tour to learn what he could and get a direct comparison on our two setups. Hes on the right track for sure!

 

for those of you running brake ducting, what do you do about water/other crap getting in? i assume the water just evaporates, what about pebbles/sand/other crap that will inevitably enter the hose? just disconnect and blow air through from time to time?

or is this really a non-issue

 

You worry about EVERYTHING.