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Civic. Will likely stick with the RC-1 on the Evo. Don't really see a good reason to bother with 200TW stuff on a dedicated track car unless it's required by rules. I'm also curious to see how the new compound works, supposedly it's a pretty moderate improvement over the old compound.
Seems I forgot the don't haha. The feedback isn't bad but there are definitely tires with better feedback. The CRS seems interesting but the limited outlet options for them is a big turn off, price isn't anything to write home about either. I like the RT660 but tire life means a lot to me, and the V730 blows it out of the water in that regard.
On the V730 I was able to do an entire 20 minute session with no cooldown laps and they didn't fall off. All 10 or so laps were within a second of each other. Definitely wasn't able to do that on the RT660 on the same car. I'll have some better A-B results this season I think between those two.
Yea if tire life is your main concern, V730 is a great choice, it's fast for how long it lasts, and again, the price is hard to beat.
I didn't see a huge drop off in 20 min sessions with the CR-S but I also don't track on big high-speed tracks like I used to. You can always get anything Nankang from Phil's Tires here in NY. They ship and they literally have a warehouse FILLED with tires. It's a track guy paradise.
Unfortunately the CR-S just jumped in price $39/tire for 275/40/18 this year. I should have bought a couple sets before the new year!
They are coming out with a 295 this year though. Looking forward to that.
I just bought a second set of wheels to put RC-1's on for the days I know there isn't a chance of rain.
I just want to confirm, is the search for 275/40/17 200TW tires hopeless? 35 doesn't even exist besides Hoosiers.
Sometimes I think about getting 17x10 wheels, but the only tire options seem to be RT615K+ and RT660. If those disappear then that's it. I might as well stick with 18x10.5s right? I like the look of 17s, but I'm in too deep and already have rear trailing arms for wide tires. I shouldn't go narrower than 275 merely because I think sidewall looks cool.
Last edited by Name User; Oct 17, 2024 at 01:27 PM.
It's been proven multiple times that 18s are faster on track than 17s. If you're already on 18s then stick with them, like you said there's way more tire options and there are more wheel options when you're looking to go 10"+.
It's a 100TW competition tire, though. You don't want to run these on the street. You definitely don't want to drive them in the rain.
18s are the way to go for wide tires, though. I still have my 17s for cheap and lightweight 255 width setups, but past that going to 18s is the only realistic option.
It's a 100TW competition tire, though. You don't want to run these on the street. You definitely don't want to drive them in the rain.
18s are the way to go for wide tires, though. I still have my 17s for cheap and lightweight 255 width setups, but past that going to 18s is the only realistic option.
when I was autox’ing a mostly stock Evo some of my largest winning margins were on a 275/35r17 a7 with a 17x10 wheel. Super light and a great gear ratio.
So much good information was just said by all. But I though at the track it was better to have smaller rims and wider walled tires so they have more material for deflection, is that not true when racing these type of cars?
when I was autox’ing a mostly stock Evo some of my largest winning margins were on a 275/35r17 a7 with a 17x10 wheel. Super light and a great gear ratio.
My 17x9.5 with 255 setup is substantially lighter than my 18s on 265s and higher. Both RPF-1s, so it's not the wheel design.
Straight line acceleration always feels noticeably faster on 17" / 255 setup than my 18s. The 18" tire options are mostly taller, which explains a lot of it, but the lighter weight must play a factor too.
It doesn't take long to overwhelm the OEM brakes on track, though. I know there are some magical brake and wheel combinations that will let you run 17" wheels with larger brakes, but then you'd be limited to a very small number of tire options.
My 17x9.5 with 255 setup is substantially lighter than my 18s on 265s and higher. Both RPF-1s, so it's not the wheel design.
Straight line acceleration always feels noticeably faster on 17" / 255 setup than my 18s. The 18" tire options are mostly taller, which explains a lot of it, but the lighter weight must play a factor too.
It doesn't take long to overwhelm the OEM brakes on track, though. I know there are some magical brake and wheel combinations that will let you run 17" wheels with larger brakes, but then you'd be limited to a very small number of tire options.
for track I wouldn’t mess with trying 17”. The X brakes are cheap and work decent with girodisc. And like said above 18” are faster on the track.
I know your talking about much faster tires here. What have you heard or know about the Accelera 651 Sport. I hear it is more a 300 treadwear vs 200. All the reviews I saw where mostly Miata's. Didn't know how they worked or hold up in a bigger high speed/HP car. Didn't want to get wheels with them on it and blow apart doing a street pull.
Alright, went from 285/30/18 RE71R to 295/30/18 RE71RS.
Front seems fine on a 18x10.5 +38 wheel with a 12mm spacer. Maybe a 15mm spacer would give the spring perch a little more breathing room.
The rear however is catching. The car already had a roll and pull, but the remains of the bumper tab relocation are shaving pieces of tire off. It's at -2.5 camber in the front, -1.5 camber in the rear. You think I should keep fighting the fenders, or add another half a degree of camber?
If I go for the fender then a little more pull, and some cutting of the bumper tab area where the fender meets the bumper. Seems like the folded metal there is the problem.
