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Old May 1, 2025 | 11:05 AM
  #181  
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Another feedback I got (from Tirerack reviews) is it needs preheating, "perfect for a 2-driver car" for autox, and even better at TA runs since it operates well at a higher temp range before the 'greasy' feel.
I'd like to try it but I autox my unreliable car solo, so maybe its not for me?
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Old May 1, 2025 | 04:43 PM
  #182  
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Originally Posted by ViciousLSD
Another feedback I got (from Tirerack reviews) is it needs preheating, "perfect for a 2-driver car" for autox, and even better at TA runs since it operates well at a higher temp range before the 'greasy' feel.
I'd like to try it but I autox my unreliable car solo, so maybe its not for me?
One guy that autocrosses did report that. He said on a 60ish degree day with a breeze the P1's weren't able to stay in a good a temp window.
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Old May 1, 2025 | 04:52 PM
  #183  
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@Vicious LSD Where do you still rub? Any chance you could take some pics of your fenders, particularly where they meet the rear bumper? So far two reputable fender rollers declined to help, saying this is impossible. You have 2mm more clearance than I do with your offset. Also, how did you cut the fender lip? I'm thinking of picking up a rotary tool later tonight, I don't have electric outlets where I park.

Last edited by Name User; May 1, 2025 at 05:19 PM.
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Old May 2, 2025 | 07:52 AM
  #184  
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From: Utah
Originally Posted by ViciousLSD
So gents, whats the scoop on those Vitour Tempesta P1's? So far comments I encountered was 'like A052s but lasts longer'. How's the side wall stiffness compared to RE71RS? Any evos running them yet?
From what I've gathered it comes down to heat management and your surface. Some people I trust prefer the A052 in optimal conditions but the P1's temperature characteristics might be better. Vitour also has some contingency money now which is swaying decisions.

I also saw a comment from someone very knowledgable suggesting P1 on the front and A052 on the rear in a FWD context. We have enough similarities to FWD that it could be interesting to try.

Vitour has a new US distributor and cut ties with the old ones, which seems to have improved a lot. I've still seen some reports of unexpectedly quick wear patterns so I wouldn't count on them lasting longer if that's your goal.

EDIT: If light rain is a possibility then A052 or RE71RS are the better choice. I've heard P1 is the kind of tire where you park it until the track dries out. I rarely have rainy summer days here in Utah so I tend to forget about all of this.
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Old May 2, 2025 | 08:05 AM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by Name User
@Vicious LSD Where do you still rub? Any chance you could take some pics of your fenders, particularly where they meet the rear bumper? So far two reputable fender rollers declined to help, saying this is impossible. You have 2mm more clearance than I do with your offset. Also, how did you cut the fender lip? I'm thinking of picking up a rotary tool later tonight, I don't have electric outlets where I park.
Hey. I believe I moved the bolt hole


talking about the rears, my car actually rides quite high now. previously I can fit 1 finger-bone, now I can fit my whole finger between tire and fender This is mainly because of autox.
1. some days I get enough confidence not to lift and/or be aggressive but might catch a dip mid turn and that could compress the rear (see rub pic i posted earlier). I actually turn more confidently going left thats why the right rear has the rubbing issue
2. i need my car driveable to events, with an extra full set of wheels, lots of tools, 25gal extra e85 and more. need some suspension travel for big dips on the highway
3. just enough height to clear my driveway, getting on the AAA tow bed and uhaul rental auto transport trailers

It can be lowered for hardparking/looks

when I started fitting 295s, I was on 15k springs, then 18k. now i'm on 22k. Zero toe. I also have adjustable rear control arms, eventually upgraded to SSB's. I have 18x11 wheels so the tire is not-pinched / less square which helps.

fender rolling can go really bad. I started rolling mine but I stopped when I saw the paint crack and chip off, which might have stopped me from cracking the fender.
the most convenient way to cut is with no suspension and you sit inside the fender well with a ninja headgear (i didnt do it this way first time so it wasnt as clean as I want) . maybe tape the inside fender or use the screw on the mandrel as your guide. cut one time downwards and see if you got enough lip
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Old May 2, 2025 | 08:13 AM
  #186  
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From: Houston
Originally Posted by Construct
From what I've gathered it comes down to heat management and your surface. Some people I trust prefer the A052 in optimal conditions but the P1's temperature characteristics might be better. Vitour also has some contingency money now which is swaying decisions.

I also saw a comment from someone very knowledgable suggesting P1 on the front and A052 on the rear in a FWD context. We have enough similarities to FWD that it could be interesting to try.

Vitour has a new US distributor and cut ties with the old ones, which seems to have improved a lot. I've still seen some reports of unexpectedly quick wear patterns so I wouldn't count on them lasting longer if that's your goal.

EDIT: If light rain is a possibility then A052 or RE71RS are the better choice. I've heard P1 is the kind of tire where you park it until the track dries out. I rarely have rainy summer days here in Utah so I tend to forget about all of this.
yeah I can heat up my fronts fast since I power thru understeer on the first run and I'm practically dragging the rear. sidewall stiffness might be an issue because I dont drive smooth like a pro lol.
I dont have game in the wet either way.

Last edited by ViciousLSD; May 2, 2025 at 09:17 AM.
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Old May 2, 2025 | 09:58 AM
  #187  
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We're running 305 Vitours on the Tesla. So far our experience is they want less pressure than A052s and they need heat. We dual drove on a 45deg day and each run it was a game of how much earlier will they turn on. After 5 runs each (35sec) they never were happy before the first two corners. After that they were great.

On cooler days we absolutely needed to be bagging them.

On the Konig Hypergrams, while they are light they are also super flexy. We have a spot on the tesla upright that has about 5mm clearance, any less and the lower ball joint grinds against the inner hoop.
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Old May 2, 2025 | 10:20 AM
  #188  
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From: Houston
Originally Posted by Dallas J
We're running 305 Vitours on the Tesla. So far our experience is they want less pressure than A052s and they need heat. We dual drove on a 45deg day and each run it was a game of how much earlier will they turn on. After 5 runs each (35sec) they never were happy before the first two corners. After that they were great.

On cooler days we absolutely needed to be bagging them.

On the Konig Hypergrams, while they are light they are also super flexy. We have a spot on the tesla upright that has about 5mm clearance, any less and the lower ball joint grinds against the inner hoop.
you need rad fan blowing into your tire tent! oh EV

I did not know that the hypergrams have that much flex. man, more grip, more problems
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Old May 3, 2025 | 09:35 AM
  #189  
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We've now dubbed them flexygrams..

Its similar to the old adage, cheap/ light/ strong, pick 2.
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Old May 3, 2025 | 08:16 PM
  #190  
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
We've now dubbed them flexygrams..

Its similar to the old adage, cheap/ light/ strong, pick 2.
Haha reminds me of rpf1. When I first got in the game that’s all I could afford and they were super light and reasonably affordable - but oh boy do they move.

Are the hypergrams that flexy or flexier?
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Old May 5, 2025 | 07:24 AM
  #191  
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@Dallas J was this wheel flex also? --> https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...ge-load-3.html
was hoping to find info on the 'benefits' F/R toe-out then I encountered this post
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Old May 5, 2025 | 08:15 AM
  #192  
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my konigs are bent to **** after NYC potholes.

Tryin vitour p1's on 255/35-18 on my new 18x8 oz utraleggeras this weekend (on the veloster n)
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Old May 7, 2025 | 10:05 PM
  #193  
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None of the reputable fender rollers wanted to help me fit 295s so I went to Muellerized. To my surprise they quickly identified that 3 of my wheels were bent. These are Forgestar F14s at 18x10.5 +38. I thought the whole point of these things being so heavy is that they're supposed to be strong, but apparently they can't handle 10-20k miles of LA roads. I'm probably going to have them repaired.

John is also advising against high offset wheels which surprised me. He's definitely successfully fit +30 and lower, so I can't argue with his results. However, this is very different from all the high offset experiments I've seen on here since R/T Ernie fit 295s on his car.
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Old May 8, 2025 | 07:36 AM
  #194  
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From: Houston
Originally Posted by Name User
John is also advising against high offset wheels which surprised me. He's definitely successfully fit +30 and lower, so I can't argue with his results. However, this is very different from all the high offset experiments I've seen on here since R/T Ernie fit 295s on his car.
I cant make sense of this. high offset = too wide wheel barrel to damage? but the only difference with a low/high offset model is the hub/spacer. I have +15 and +40 Hypergrams for example.
you have thought about asking race shops? or maybe using an inverter? i used one back in my apartment/street parking days for power tools, before cordless tools were cheap and reliable
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Old May 8, 2025 | 09:25 PM
  #195  
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Originally Posted by Name User
John is also advising against high offset wheels which surprised me. He's definitely successfully fit +30 and lower, so I can't argue with his results. However, this is very different from all the high offset experiments I've seen on here since R/T Ernie fit 295s on his car.
What was the argument against higher offsets? An extra 10mm or so in the rear doesn't seem like a big deal.
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