local Pittsburgh Meet
BTW do you still have the stock clamps on the car? if so dont waste your time doing a boost leak test, because I can tell you that you have leaks.
What kind of boost troubles are you having?? normally with a leak unless its super bad wont effect boost. Dave had a horrible leak that we found and his boost was always solid, usually your afr going rich is a sign you have a leak....Thats always my first clue, but other issues can arise as well.....thats why im wondering what your actual problem is?
Last edited by travman; Oct 8, 2007 at 11:55 AM.
i have the apex'i avcr.
i hit my target boost ~23psi and it holds till about 4 grand. then it drops off suddenly to ~14psi and bounces from that to peak till around 55-6 grand then holds around 18psi to redline.
it does it when i do long gear pulls, but if i start in first gear it won't do it.
i hit my target boost ~23psi and it holds till about 4 grand. then it drops off suddenly to ~14psi and bounces from that to peak till around 55-6 grand then holds around 18psi to redline.
it does it when i do long gear pulls, but if i start in first gear it won't do it.
You need to install t-bolt clamps, stock clamps are junk....you cant tighten them enough, t-bolts you can crank down until your red in the face
Im not a fan of those electronic boost controllers, I think they create more of a headache than they actually help....which sounds to me is the problem.
I would say do t-bolts and boost leak test first, see if thats what it is (which im doubting but might as well do it and check that off your list) then if it still doesnt go away swap in an mbc and see what happens. You just have to go through trial and error at this point, unless there is a setting you may have bumped or someone changed?
BUT ditch the stock clamps, they are hurting worse than helping
Im not a fan of those electronic boost controllers, I think they create more of a headache than they actually help....which sounds to me is the problem.
I would say do t-bolts and boost leak test first, see if thats what it is (which im doubting but might as well do it and check that off your list) then if it still doesnt go away swap in an mbc and see what happens. You just have to go through trial and error at this point, unless there is a setting you may have bumped or someone changed?
BUT ditch the stock clamps, they are hurting worse than helping
thanks trav that's what i'm going to end up doing here soon. But the EBC worked great in my honda and worked great when i first put it in the evo. the past month or so it started acting up
i had the solenoid tapped into the BOV line so i thought maybe the BOV started to leak and it was messing with the controller.
the other day i un t'd all the lines and hooked my vacuum manifold up off the break booster line so everything had it's own vacuum line. and it still does it.
i hate cars haha
i had the solenoid tapped into the BOV line so i thought maybe the BOV started to leak and it was messing with the controller.
the other day i un t'd all the lines and hooked my vacuum manifold up off the break booster line so everything had it's own vacuum line. and it still does it.
i hate cars haha
thanks trav that's what i'm going to end up doing here soon. But the EBC worked great in my honda and worked great when i first put it in the evo. the past month or so it started acting up
i had the solenoid tapped into the BOV line so i thought maybe the BOV started to leak and it was messing with the controller.
the other day i un t'd all the lines and hooked my vacuum manifold up off the break booster line so everything had it's own vacuum line. and it still does it.
i hate cars haha
i had the solenoid tapped into the BOV line so i thought maybe the BOV started to leak and it was messing with the controller.
the other day i un t'd all the lines and hooked my vacuum manifold up off the break booster line so everything had it's own vacuum line. and it still does it.
i hate cars haha
You should just throw a mbc in and I bet the problem goes away....you can get a joe p. mbc like I have for $45 and it works like a charm and its ugly (goes well with the cardboard heat shield
). But def. get t-bolts in that car and crank them down
FTW
hahaha i'm selling the AVC-R it's still giving me problems. i've had it for 3+ years and never gave me issues on the external wastegate. it just seems to hate the internal gate.
if you know anyone that wants one or an evo ix field harness let me know. i'll let them go cheap for locals.
and i want that shirt!
if you know anyone that wants one or an evo ix field harness let me know. i'll let them go cheap for locals.
and i want that shirt!
hahaha i'm selling the AVC-R it's still giving me problems. i've had it for 3+ years and never gave me issues on the external wastegate. it just seems to hate the internal gate.
if you know anyone that wants one or an evo ix field harness let me know. i'll let them go cheap for locals.
and i want that shirt!
if you know anyone that wants one or an evo ix field harness let me know. i'll let them go cheap for locals.
and i want that shirt!
Don't tighten T-bolts too much or your in for trouble. THey will crush things. Really if you want to, you can use silicon under all the clamps and you will have no issues. The stock clamps can and will work just fine unless your running some insane boost. T-bolts are better but i wouldnt say required.
Don't tighten T-bolts too much or your in for trouble. THey will crush things. Really if you want to, you can use silicon under all the clamps and you will have no issues. The stock clamps can and will work just fine unless your running some insane boost. T-bolts are better but i wouldnt say required.
I tighten my t-bolts down until I cant tighten them anymore and i have 0 issues....and I have used t-bolts for 5 years now on 3 different turbo cars and I trust them more than anything out there. I gained a full point afr going from tightened stock clamps to tightened t-bolts, so that tells me I had boost leaks eventhough my clamps were all tight and I gained lost power from it. I boost leak tested mine up to 30 psi and the pipes didnt blow or leak, so if they arent leaking at 30....They wont leak at 25 psi
Loosen the stock worm clamps once you never get the same clamping force as they were from the factory.....T-bolts you can tighten and re-tighetn some more and you never lose that clamping force. I would rather spend $60 for the peace of mind then have to mess with silicone everytime you have to pull you charge pipes off, but thats just me......
The older you get the more you wont care its your birthday....I turn 27 (30 is coming!) the 15th, and I could careless
but to turn 21 again.....now that was fun
btw happy birthday.
but to turn 21 again.....now that was fun
btw happy birthday.
Last edited by travman; Oct 9, 2007 at 09:04 AM.



