My neighbor has a bead roller, but you probably wont' drive in for that.

 

atleast 35* Uphill + start at low rpm + low gear = lots of load for more extended period at slower safer speed until climbing revs. Including almost 400# of stuff I had in my trunk/backseats and a front passenger aboard. I wanted as much loaded drivetrain to make the turbo pressurize and couplings work as much as possible.

cliffs: Car has to work more, pulling more weight and stay in constant high boost longer.

 

 

why not do a boost leak test and turn the pressure up to 30 psi. more safe and you and test for other source of boost leak.

 

I like to tune downhill, with the car in neutral, and the key in the "off" position.

 

what up all?

 

Already did that. No leaks. But sitting in a garage pressurizing my system doesn't reflect the movement of the LICP in relation to the FMIC.

The issue was the rocking back and forth of the pipes while under those conditions that I was testing. Kinda like a couple of 1/4mi hard launches I did waiting for it to pop off. Or abrupt off and on throttle WOT in 4th gear at 4k rpm.

No leaks no popping off so I'd say that task is done.. for now.

 

You gonna respond to your PM?

 

Your IC pipes should work with that new direct bolt-on turbo unless you modified them for the current turbo you have in there now. Unless you're talking about a bigger 4" inlet pipe for surge housing or a bigger J outlet pipe?

 

WOW what an operation, Shoe needs to get a job there!

 

I think 30 lb. (just test what boost you are running) boost leak test reveals all leaks if done right, IMO (thanks Marc!). I like the Napa brand hose clamps and Extreme PSI hoses too BTW.

 

I used this.
http://www.agpturbo.com/agp-boost-leak-tester/

But see my car was leak tested and fixed(inj/tb seals and LICP) at CBRD 3 week before track and then 2 days before track it was tested again and strapped on dyno for tune. So that leaves me to think that only when shifting and engine rocking is/was the issue as well as the wrong LICP fitment.

 

the kit is design to bolt up to stock IC pipes. the stock lower IC pipes has a kink in it, not straight after the pipe. i have ams lower IC pipe which is straight. also the ams lower IC pipe has a reducer, from 2.5" to 2" to fit the stock J-pipe. the turbo i got has a j-pipe that's 2.5". so it would be retarded to go from 2.5" to 2" (ams lower pipe) then back to 2.5".

 

that's probably because you were double shifting at the track.

 

Went to extremepsi this morning for new, longer couplers. I hope to fix the car tomorrow.

Hope u guys are enjoying your holiday weekend (5day for me).