Its how you launch it. Slip it and it probably, well might, not break.

 

Stock Tcase with RS limited slip front diff.... Long as it don't wheel hop it should survive !!

 

So, long time lurker, rare poster here,
Recently there was some spirited driving that resulted in the cracking of my bumper, factory lip, front shield, fog lamp bezel, and the removal of the wheel well liner. Anywho, it's likely not in my best interest to claim it on insurance and I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations on body shops (preferably in the south hills).

 

I've always taken my car to CarStar Premium Collision on Rt.88. They have always done top notch work and guarantee their quality for the lifetime of the vehicle. Nationwide organization so if you were to move and the clearcoat started fading, you could take it to another Car Star and get it repaired. I always thought that was pretty cool.

My car is currently there now getting the front bumper repaired and a new SE lip after I ran over a deer. Should get it back tomorrow and will post pics of the work that they have done.

 

Just wanted to say thanks to Mike at Baierl for an outstanding alignment, car is finally perfect.

 

So, debating on selling my Volks to buy either an HTA Green or FP Black. If I were to get one of them, as well as cams, what injectors would I have to upgrade to? I know there are injector connoisseurs in here, looking for input.

 

#1 I may be interested in the Volks. #2 you need to ride in my car with the Green HTA, if you need more power than this than we need to check you into the nearest psych ward. As for cams on a IX I would say GSC S2's, Injectors FIC 2150's.

 

Agreed with all of this.

I made the switch from the Green to the Red and noticed a good bit of difference in lag. The HTA Green will make plenty of power for the street and still lay down great track times (just look at Curts signature to attest to this).

 

As for the injectors, Trav is the man as always. Just keep an eye on that torque. The Green is really going to put torque down low in the RPM, which could spell problems for you.

With the PTE 1200s, a double pumper and E-85 I was at the limit of where I felt comfortable on the stock motor. After the build though I ****-canned the 1200s and went with the ID2000s after further reading. The FIC and ID are the same platform, but some people have had issues with the ID after further investigation. Mine run great, and I now realize I should have bought them earlier instead of shelling out a couple hundred on a few sets before the fact. I hate buying things multiple times...

 

naa been out of the game since December - I forget everything.....


all i can say is you cant go wrong with dealing w/ Jens @ FIC - he is a good dude, The 1100, 1680, and 2150 high z variants cant be beat.

 

The CE28N's are freshly repaired and powder coated in a gray metallic. I am picking them up Friday - still haven't made up my mind to sell them considering what I just put into them.

GSC S2's are going to be a given, the only problem is that I'd probably have to get the springs for them.

I DEFINITELY want to go for a ride in your car with the Green, although it would be kind of skewed considering my car will not be making that kind of power/spool without your built motor.

I figure as long as some timing is pulled at peak boost then it should be alright. I'm at nearly 400wtq right now - don't want to go any higher.

How much power were you making on the green before the motor build? Would the 1200's be sufficient for the green on a stock motor (I really don't want to shell out the cash for ID2000s). Lastly, is a Double Pumper mandatory for a Green and cams. Thanks.

 

as previously stated it's better to get the right injectors the first time so you don't have to go buy a larger set once you realize that they're not big enough.

that's penny wise and pound foolish.

might as well get an injector that will be good today and good tomorrow instead of just a bandaid until you realize they're maxing out sooner than you anticipated.

 

That's it - you cheap out out on the fuel system but add a bigger turbo and cams for more power.......because fuel is the last thing that needs worried about.

Pushing a fuel system to its peak to save a buck is about as smart as unprotected sex with a $2.00 hooker.....both wont end well.

 

I understand that, but there has to be other more affordable options that will work now - I don't see myself going beyond 500whp. Considering they cost as much as upgrading the turbo, it really is not financially feasible for me at this time.

 

Trav, I'm not an idiot and understand that fuel delivery is very important. Just have a hard time comprehending that I have to jump from 1000cc's to 2000cc's just to be safe.