Local Pittsburgh meet part deux
Oh, and another thing I'm considering is buying a beater just in case I break something this year. I was on Craigslist and came across the best classified I think I've ever seen. Enjoy!
"Hey!
Are you tired of having that car that you’re always worried about getting scratched/dinged/dented? Tired of keeping that car clean to maintain that pristine paintjob? Do you just want a car that starts every time, has a comfortable ride, and gets decent gas mileage? Well, have I got the car for you. Here is a beautiful 1995 white Honda Accord Ex. The ole gal has an R-title, which keeps the price low for you…you’re welcome.
Nuts and Bolts:
First off, the car is 100% mechanically sound(easily passes inspection and emissions/everything works/no grinds in transmission/no issues whatsoever), very reliable, with around 174,XXX miles. It has been well maintained (oil changed on time, etc.) You can get over 31mpg highway if you drive like an old lady, and it averages about 25mpg city. It has a stock F22b1 motor with an el cheapo intake with K&N filter, a Megan Racing header (slightly dented), and AEM underdrive pulleys. The car is a strong runner. And while I have never taken her to the track, I have no doubt it would run a 17-18 second quarter mile – easy. And the brakes are good and the tires are fair.
Body:
You may notice that the exterior is not quite how it looked when it rolled off the assembly line in 1995. The passenger side of the vehicle received some damage this January during an inclement-weather induced disagreement with a guardrail. BUT – you should see how funked up the guardrail is. The accord definitely came out on top on this one. Be assured, this is one tough vehicle. There are other scrapes and scratches around the vehicle from far less interesting traffic incidents that can be seen in the photos. Better pictures of the body can be provided if you want, but what you see there is what you get.
Interior:
The interior also has a lot of character. You can practically taste the marinara sauce spilled on the back carpet several years ago. Falling ashes from cheap cigars have left a unique “singed” effect on the driver’s seat which I feel really just makes the seat more comfortable. No one has smoked in this vehicle for months though, and there is no “smoky” scent to the interior. Unless you dig the smoky thing, I can get m y friends to smoke in shifts in there to achieve the exact ashtray essence that you desire.
Bonus features:
Large trunk (handy for kidnappings and disposing bodies)
Small hump in hood from wrench left under hood allows for better air circulation in engine compartment.
While the back seat can comfortably seat 2-3 average-sized people, half a dozen midgets, or a combination thereof, it is physically impossible for two adult humans to “get lucky” there, so you can be assured the back seat is bodily-fluid-free.
Included with purchase of vehicle – 1 free pair of douchebag white sunglasses, change that has fallen between the seats, and original release CD - “Ace of Base – The Sign” (estimated combined value = $1.63)
Asking for $2000 OBO.
Please either email me if interested.
Thanks,
Chris"
"Hey!
Are you tired of having that car that you’re always worried about getting scratched/dinged/dented? Tired of keeping that car clean to maintain that pristine paintjob? Do you just want a car that starts every time, has a comfortable ride, and gets decent gas mileage? Well, have I got the car for you. Here is a beautiful 1995 white Honda Accord Ex. The ole gal has an R-title, which keeps the price low for you…you’re welcome.
Nuts and Bolts:
First off, the car is 100% mechanically sound(easily passes inspection and emissions/everything works/no grinds in transmission/no issues whatsoever), very reliable, with around 174,XXX miles. It has been well maintained (oil changed on time, etc.) You can get over 31mpg highway if you drive like an old lady, and it averages about 25mpg city. It has a stock F22b1 motor with an el cheapo intake with K&N filter, a Megan Racing header (slightly dented), and AEM underdrive pulleys. The car is a strong runner. And while I have never taken her to the track, I have no doubt it would run a 17-18 second quarter mile – easy. And the brakes are good and the tires are fair.
Body:
You may notice that the exterior is not quite how it looked when it rolled off the assembly line in 1995. The passenger side of the vehicle received some damage this January during an inclement-weather induced disagreement with a guardrail. BUT – you should see how funked up the guardrail is. The accord definitely came out on top on this one. Be assured, this is one tough vehicle. There are other scrapes and scratches around the vehicle from far less interesting traffic incidents that can be seen in the photos. Better pictures of the body can be provided if you want, but what you see there is what you get.
Interior:
The interior also has a lot of character. You can practically taste the marinara sauce spilled on the back carpet several years ago. Falling ashes from cheap cigars have left a unique “singed” effect on the driver’s seat which I feel really just makes the seat more comfortable. No one has smoked in this vehicle for months though, and there is no “smoky” scent to the interior. Unless you dig the smoky thing, I can get m y friends to smoke in shifts in there to achieve the exact ashtray essence that you desire.
Bonus features:
Large trunk (handy for kidnappings and disposing bodies)
Small hump in hood from wrench left under hood allows for better air circulation in engine compartment.
While the back seat can comfortably seat 2-3 average-sized people, half a dozen midgets, or a combination thereof, it is physically impossible for two adult humans to “get lucky” there, so you can be assured the back seat is bodily-fluid-free.
Included with purchase of vehicle – 1 free pair of douchebag white sunglasses, change that has fallen between the seats, and original release CD - “Ace of Base – The Sign” (estimated combined value = $1.63)
Asking for $2000 OBO.
Please either email me if interested.
Thanks,
Chris"
If you want the high impedance injectors you have to run the resistor bypass plug that spoolinup sells now. The 1680 high-z will be a much better choice than the 1600 low-z, especially on the stock ecu...they will idle and drive like stock if not better.
Okay. I wasn't tuning in yesterday that much so I will add my thoughts to the conversation.
Canex - I agree with most people here when they said go for the larger injectors now. I am not saying shell out the 1,000 dollars for the ID2000's or FIC2150s, but I would go at least with the 1600 series high z that Trav was talking about. While you might not agree with the ~$500-600 price tag for some of these higher flowing injectors, going with the PTE1200 or 1600s now (or similar older style, non Bosch type) and cheaping out will not play well in the long run. So say you change your mind and want to go higher, you will be lucky to recoup 100-150 dollars for injectors that you just paid 300-400 for and then you have to eat that loss and pay the high price tag for the high z injectors. I would go with them regardless, because the newer style Bosch injectors have a much better idle (more accurate flow down low), easier to tune, etc. The proof is in the pudding, read about them on EvoM, just do a search.
As for the power levels on the PTE 1200s, I would have to think. I believe I was making just over 400whp and around 400wtq on the Mustang over at J&S. However take that with a grain of salt, because the tune was a complete disaster (fyi the IDC numbers were in the mid-high 90s). Looking back now, with what I have learned from the tuning gurus, et al. I realize it was only a matter of time before she popped. When Mike took it apart the rings were toast, she was burning oil and we saw some pitting on the pistons from knocking and there might have been a crack too. I should have taken a picture. The troubling part was that I didn't track the car at all, it was never launched and maybe saw 25psi on a half dozen occasions, that's it.
With all of that being said, regardless of if your tune is immaculate or terrible, you are playing on a fine line. This car with a stock block just wasn't made to handle that kind of power. Have people been able to run that power on their stock motor for a while? Yes. Just look how well they fared over the long haul though. Almost every person who has tried to run that power through the stock power-train (especially while dragging it like you do) has blown the motor. So, think about everything before you start slapping on large injectors and cranking the boost up. A good motor job will cost more than those injectors, tires and transmission combined.
Canex - I agree with most people here when they said go for the larger injectors now. I am not saying shell out the 1,000 dollars for the ID2000's or FIC2150s, but I would go at least with the 1600 series high z that Trav was talking about. While you might not agree with the ~$500-600 price tag for some of these higher flowing injectors, going with the PTE1200 or 1600s now (or similar older style, non Bosch type) and cheaping out will not play well in the long run. So say you change your mind and want to go higher, you will be lucky to recoup 100-150 dollars for injectors that you just paid 300-400 for and then you have to eat that loss and pay the high price tag for the high z injectors. I would go with them regardless, because the newer style Bosch injectors have a much better idle (more accurate flow down low), easier to tune, etc. The proof is in the pudding, read about them on EvoM, just do a search.
As for the power levels on the PTE 1200s, I would have to think. I believe I was making just over 400whp and around 400wtq on the Mustang over at J&S. However take that with a grain of salt, because the tune was a complete disaster (fyi the IDC numbers were in the mid-high 90s). Looking back now, with what I have learned from the tuning gurus, et al. I realize it was only a matter of time before she popped. When Mike took it apart the rings were toast, she was burning oil and we saw some pitting on the pistons from knocking and there might have been a crack too. I should have taken a picture. The troubling part was that I didn't track the car at all, it was never launched and maybe saw 25psi on a half dozen occasions, that's it.
With all of that being said, regardless of if your tune is immaculate or terrible, you are playing on a fine line. This car with a stock block just wasn't made to handle that kind of power. Have people been able to run that power on their stock motor for a while? Yes. Just look how well they fared over the long haul though. Almost every person who has tried to run that power through the stock power-train (especially while dragging it like you do) has blown the motor. So, think about everything before you start slapping on large injectors and cranking the boost up. A good motor job will cost more than those injectors, tires and transmission combined.
Last edited by buchnerj; Mar 31, 2011 at 06:20 AM.
That was a good reply!
Dave, How about buy a used Red, keep your injectors, get a race gas map for when you need it, and just run pump gas and sacrifice the loss in HP that you need on the streets.
Cheap, easy and plenty more then you really need anyway. Its not always about power when it comes to who wins a race! Thats in any racing venue.
.
I mean your already beating almost everyone at the flashlight drags that you race. Are you planning on actually drag racing or are you just looking for a timeslip. I could print you one out if you want!
Just my $.02.
Dave, How about buy a used Red, keep your injectors, get a race gas map for when you need it, and just run pump gas and sacrifice the loss in HP that you need on the streets.
Cheap, easy and plenty more then you really need anyway. Its not always about power when it comes to who wins a race! Thats in any racing venue.
.I mean your already beating almost everyone at the flashlight drags that you race. Are you planning on actually drag racing or are you just looking for a timeslip. I could print you one out if you want!
Just my $.02.
Whats 1st gear stock boost??
Hello, Guys. I got a question for you.. Do you know what the OEM Stock Boost level for first gear is, in the Mitsubishi Lancer EVO8?? Thanks for your time & help!!!
Sadly it isn't that simple. The stock boost level is governed by a load threshold at a given rpm. Lucky for you though its very easy to change this via ECUflash. Any tune will include it.
i didnt know the 6-speed had unsynchronized 2nd and 3rd gears??
either way i told him not to buy it if it had been launched
Mike, That date was canceled. But, we are racing on May 21 on the North track. I will post up more details soon.
Also the wilson circuit on July 30 and another North track date in Oct sometime.
Also the wilson circuit on July 30 and another North track date in Oct sometime.
OK gives me some time to make sure it's ready for the big loop. Keep us posted, I plan on doing all three.
canexican i think i saw your evo at that car star place looked good. I was debating the e85 route too there was supposed to be that new pump coming out but i havent heard much about it recently rather then doing a double. I was talking ot jason as js dyno about e85 for a while but i am in south hills ant closest station is robinson or jefferson hills so i am just going to up my cams and race gas tune for track
it's nearly impossible to get anywhere convenient, and i am too lazy to log/retune regularly.
i really wish some of the other gas stations would start carrying it regularly.