***Official WA Chat Thread***
So let me ask you this. If you had the choice would you choose 12kF and 11kR or have them currently at 11kF and 12kR (considering my 24mm rear bar also). I am trying to decide before I put them on and have them corner balanced. I talked to a couple shops who have experience running Ohlins on Evo's and they each gave me a different suggestion. The valving can handle +/- 3k according to Ohlins engineers so I may experiment with different rates also.
With my current setup I have the front rates harder than the back but with a good adjustable rear sway it still seems to get the back to rotate. So i'd go with the 12kf and the 11kR. The bar is adjustable right? I'd then try to adjust the bar/rear front settings until it felt about right. Or pick the suspension guru's on here brains
.Seems if you really want the back to be relatively quiet then putting the back stiffer than the front is only going to end up putting you into the exact situation you don't want and with no easy way to adjust it (unless you now went and got a front sway bar/bracing/strut bar etc.).
I didn't finish my post...must have been too late. What i meant to say was "If you just soften the front and keep the rear at the high setting all you've done is made the difference between the front and rear spring rates larger. With the back with even high rates relative to the front, you'll increase the tendency for oversteer.So I think running it that way is going to make it even more tail happy. If you want the car less tail happy bring the difference between the front and rear spring rates closer together. The smaller the difference the less the front/rear will rotate better than the other roughly. Now of course you would end up getting closer to understeer but your car will push less if the you bring those rates closer together.
I don't like the tail out myself...I run the Works Rear Sway and even on the softest setting its made the tail a bit more "loose" to me so I have to mess around a bit more with the settings on the coils to try to dial that out. I don't have a baller coilover setup like you do though
For anyone who wants to learn a lot about basic suspension on the cheap I suggest 1/10 R/C Touring cars...not the toys you get from Radio Shack, but a Team Associated/HPI/Team Losi etc. type setup they help you pick up a lot of this basic stuff without spending a fortune.
I didn't finish my post...must have been too late. What i meant to say was "If you just soften the front and keep the rear at the high setting all you've done is made the difference between the front and rear spring rates larger. With the back with even high rates relative to the front, you'll increase the tendency for oversteer.So I think running it that way is going to make it even more tail happy. If you want the car less tail happy bring the difference between the front and rear spring rates closer together. The smaller the difference the less the front/rear will rotate better than the other roughly. Now of course you would end up getting closer to understeer but your car will push less if the you bring those rates closer together.
I don't like the tail out myself...I run the Works Rear Sway and even on the softest setting its made the tail a bit more "loose" to me so I have to mess around a bit more with the settings on the coils to try to dial that out. I don't have a baller coilover setup like you do though
For anyone who wants to learn a lot about basic suspension on the cheap I suggest 1/10 R/C Touring cars...not the toys you get from Radio Shack, but a Team Associated/HPI/Team Losi etc. type setup they help you pick up a lot of this basic stuff without spending a fortune.
Well, I sold my stock one on sunday at the dyno day since someone's broke and he needed one asap. The stock one just happened to be in my car So I took the turbo smart one off today, and put on another (working) Greddy Type S. Its recirculated, and it actually feels very close to stock, with a whistle.
So I took the turbo smart one off today, and put on another (working) Greddy Type S. Its recirculated, and it actually feels very close to stock, with a whistle.
Yeah on the R/C thing I was suprised when i came out here that their didn't seem to be a good scene. At least in the seattle/eastside area. They are trying to get a league going on near Magnuson park (as of earlier this year).
I'm hoping eventually they will get a nice indoor asphalt track here (don't like carpet) so I can get back into it. I think this is the rough list of R/Cs i've owned (all 1/10)
Traxxas Rad 2
Tamiya TA02
Team Losi XX (I don't remember if this was the Kinwald Edition or not...so long ago)
Team Losi XX-T
HPI RS4
HPI RS4 Pro
HPI RS4 Pro 2
HPI RS4 Pro 3
HPI RS4 M/T
Team Associated TC3
Team Associated TC3 Factory Team
Kawada (don't remember the car name....it was their first entry into touring cars)
I had an associated buggy at one point too...don't remember the name. Need to get down to Tacoma and watch some of the runs maybe one of these days.
I'm hoping eventually they will get a nice indoor asphalt track here (don't like carpet) so I can get back into it. I think this is the rough list of R/Cs i've owned (all 1/10)
Traxxas Rad 2
Tamiya TA02
Team Losi XX (I don't remember if this was the Kinwald Edition or not...so long ago
)Team Losi XX-T
HPI RS4
HPI RS4 Pro
HPI RS4 Pro 2
HPI RS4 Pro 3
HPI RS4 M/T
Team Associated TC3
Team Associated TC3 Factory Team
Kawada (don't remember the car name....it was their first entry into touring cars)
I had an associated buggy at one point too...don't remember the name. Need to get down to Tacoma and watch some of the runs maybe one of these days.
I have went through...
2 Stocks - Best you can get, but it starts to leak around 27-28 psi
2 Turbo Smarts - Its good since you can adjust it, but its loud.
2 Greddy Type S - Very close to stock drivability, with a little whistle
HKS SSQV - Way to much flutter
TIAL 50mm - Great if you are pushing lots of boost and lots of power, but its only VTA.
GFB Stealth - Rice
If I were you I would go with the APS.
